3 cut method

[TreeBot]

Wolf Man, about that Pm: same thing Treeco mentioned.

Boo-boo Not busting on the saw lanyard, if you want it YOU GOT IT, that's my motto when it comes to gear and such BUT you might want to get a breakaway lanyard

I know that many people operate differently, but I never use a lanyard for my saw. Being tied to a running saw while standing in a tree just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

 

[treeseer]

Branches and stubs should be roped if they are likely to wound buttress roots when they fall. That, or lay something down to protect them.

:wave:

 

[Slvrmple72]

Treeseer, what would you consider the safest maximum diameter of a living limb to remove on a tree? I will cut off up to 4" dia limbs without too much concern but I let homeowners know their options when they want a primary limb removed and the consequences ( eventual trunk cavitation/rot/failure ). I use the 3 cut method but also have learned to do the 2 cut quickie. If its a takedown... the one cut let'er rrrrrrriiiiiiiiipppp!!!!!

 

[Nailsbeats]

Uhm, we are talking about pruning work here, Nails. This is not the " let's bring down the whole world at once forum".
The proper 3 point cut? Well yeah, you will have some fun with that until you realize what can happen if you use it all the time. But still, Nails, the 3 cut is the finish cut on the stub. Got to keep your chops up on the finish cut.

Turns out, I use the 3 cut method all the time, without the gay name though. This aint the tear it up forum? Well ****, I am in the wrong one again. Go line clearance!!!!!!!

 

[Nailsbeats]

As far as the horizontal snap cut, yeah, keep that second cut behind the undercut not further out, thats how you lose saws.

I like to meet the undercut and top cut when I want them to land just how they sit, but I always stay even or half a kerf back. The further you go back the more the limb will tip down before it can release, go out to even and the limb drops how it's sitting.

I have never lost a saw yet with the limb, I've had them yanked but always tied off. I have watched my brother and maybe even my dad lose a few.

Those kerf cuts are called wings, ears, pins and many others I am sure, Oldirty got me hooked on calling them "pins", he doesn't know what it stands for but I say it stands for personal insurance. Later guys.

 

[booboo]

I know that many people operate differently, but I never use a lanyard for my saw. Being tied to a running saw while standing in a tree just doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

The guy I climb with never uses one either. Different strokes for different folks...

 

[treemandan]

Turns out, I use the 3 cut method all the time, without the gay name though. This aint the tear it up forum? Well ****, I am in the wrong one again. Go line clearance!!!!!!!

Yup, that is how it turns out. 3 cuts, everybody is doing it... but how is very important.
I shy away from just a little underslice and try to use a small notch for an undercut. The extra few seconds allows for saw retrieval.
Also I tend to use a jump cut, when I do I use a DEEP undercut that is gauranteed to pinch the saw. I tend to " rabbit" it out a little then yank the saw out just as it closes, just rev it up and hit the top... keep your face out the way. This works good for some stuff.

 

[treemandan]

Branches and stubs should be roped if they are likely to wound buttress roots when they fall. That, or lay something down to protect them.

:wave:

Vey few heed... and they regret it very soon.

 

[lxt]

you guys always pick on us utility guys utilty guys are some of the best trained people out there

I think you probably didn't make the under cut deep enough is the reason why it peeled..

No...I was a utility guy!! & they do receive excellent training!!


LXT...........

 

[lxt]

Someone needs a nap.

what are you talking about? some of your posts are just for the sake of a post count uhh? cause many make no sense at all!!

keep pulling yourself up the tree by tying onto your trucks ball hitch & your nap will be permanent!!


LXT........

 

[md_tree_dood]

It's nice to hear people asking this stuff because it's important to know, there are so many different aspects of making cuts and you're learning the most basic important one right hear. An interesting topic however has been brought up with chainsaw lanyards and such. When you attatch your lanyard make sure you are clipping it to a breakaway attachment point on your saddle or have a breakaway lanyard (or both). I used a solid lanyard and hook it to breakaway sections (I have at least 3 on my saddle). If you don't have these breakaway sections then purchase a lanyard that will breakaway.

 

[clearance]

I'm not suggesting anything other than the fact that spikes aren't good for the tree but they WILL NOT kill it, I think I along with many other people who learned that trade via the utility company got very good training, 20 years ago (when I was trained) spikes where the norm and I was trained to use them, later on I had the choice to learn to foot lock and did learn how to but I'm 285# now so there ain't a whole lot of foot locking going on here so if I need a tree trimmed then I call a guy who works for, guess who, yep, the utility company and he does the spike-less trims for me but I think if you read the question that goes with the answer that you quoted then you'd understand what I was talking about in that quote, a majority of the people here think that any person that works for or comes from the utility side of this industry is just a hack, well, that ain't so, what if I made cracks about certified arborist being total class room nerds and that they didn't know crap about what goes on in the field, you'd get tired of hearing it sooner or later just like I get tired of hearing it.

Excellent, I agree.

 

[booboo]

It's nice to hear people asking this stuff because it's important to know, there are so many different aspects of making cuts and you're learning the most basic important one right hear. An interesting topic however has been brought up with chainsaw lanyards and such. When you attatch your lanyard make sure you are clipping it to a breakaway attachment point on your saddle or have a breakaway lanyard (or both). I used a solid lanyard and hook it to breakaway sections (I have at least 3 on my saddle). If you don't have these breakaway sections then purchase a lanyard that will breakaway.

Since I mentioned saw lanyards, I'll add that mine is solid but attached to a breakaway clip on my saddle. Good point. I don't want to send the saw to the ground if it's simply yanked out of may hands (which has happened plenty of times) but also don't want to be pulled apart if the saw ends up bound in a big chunk (which has never happened to me but is certainly possible given that we all have the ability to screw up).

 

[Ivan H.]

You should use slash cut approach to limbing back trees.make a small face cut on the underside of the limb,and then make your falling cut at an angle towards your face cut.This should let limb fall without tearing or breaking.I hope I explained it clearly enough.

 

[Ivan H.]

I'm not suggesting anything other than the fact that spikes aren't good for the tree but they WILL NOT kill it, I think I along with many other people who learned that trade via the utility company got very good training, 20 years ago (when I was trained) spikes where the norm and I was trained to use them, later on I had the choice to learn to foot lock and did learn how to but I'm 285# now so there ain't a whole lot of foot locking going on here so if I need a tree trimmed then I call a guy who works for, guess who, yep, the utility company and he does the spike-less trims for me but I think if you read the question that goes with the answer that you quoted then you'd understand what I was talking about in that quote, a majority of the people here think that any person that works for or comes from the utility side of this industry is just a hack, well, that ain't so, what if I made cracks about certified arborist being total class room nerds and that they didn't know crap about what goes on in the field, you'd get tired of hearing it sooner or later just like I get tired of hearing it.

Don't ever :censored: put spikes in trees .that the stupidest thing I ever heard

 

[Nailsbeats]

Don't ever :censored: put spikes in trees .that the stupidest thing I ever heard

Not even on a removal?

 

[Blakesmaster]

Don't ever :censored: put spikes in trees .that the stupidest thing I ever heard

Wow.

 

[Ivan H.]

Not even on a removal?

I tought he was talking about driveing spikes into thees not climbing grear sorry

 

[Nailsbeats]

You should use slash cut approach to limbing back trees.make a small face cut on the underside of the limb,and then make your falling cut at an angle towards your face cut.This should let limb fall without tearing or breaking.I hope I explained it clearly enough.

I'm confused too. Surely you know there are many differents cuts to use depending on how the limb sits and how you want it to fall. Speaking in broad terms saying you should use a certain cut for limbing back trees isn't good practice.

 

[Ivan H.]

I don't know how you guys do stuff back east