3120 on Pro Cut mill a work in progress

[lps8]

Video of pro cut in action

[video=youtube_share;BkJDD3RZ5tk]http://youtu.be/BkJDD3RZ5tk[/video]

Pro Cut with Husky 3120 in action. Cutting 5" wide pine with Stihl lp regular grind. Still has carb with fixed h. Have kit for modified one, but have not had time to install kit.

Larry

IMG_0216.MOV - YouTube

 

[BobL]

Nice vid - thanks for posting.

I'd really like to see a close up of the drive links - something like this.

The circled area is the impact after a couple of hours of cutting hardwood with lo-pro on my 441.
The other chain is new low-pro
The only way I can keep the used chain on is by tightening it really hard.

If you are only making 5" wide cuts in softwood I can see why you have had no problems so far as this width of cut will hardly place any back pressure on the sprocket.

 

[lps8]

no photos of chain yet

Bobl, I have not had time to take another pic of chain. I did cut more than a 5" piece of pine, but not a lot. I cut some wider logs and had cut some cedar another day. I have not have any trouble with the chain jumping off nor do I run any tighter than normal.

When I timed the cut in the 5" cant, the reg 3/8ths with a Malloff grind cut just a little faster. It's a real aggressive cut and it throws some chips. I want to try the 8 tooth sprocket, but when I have time to measure if it actually helps.

I am still going to get the carb up to speed (haven't had time to try the kit, it worked when I first put it on and then was not right the next time I went to use it) and change the coil, but I am trying to get in my house. Working on doing the stone work on the fireplace. Have an Opel II that is supposed to heat my whole house. Have a source for free oak.

Chain saw milling seems to be slow no matter what, but I am going to try to speed things up as much as I can. When I'm doing stuff, I don't like wasted motion. If I was going to mill for money, I would get a swing blade from Baileys cause all I see chain saw milling for is for personal use.

Enough going on for now, bed time in Alabama.

Larry

 

[hamish]

One suggestion to speed up your times, try slowing down and decreasing your feed pressure to keep the saw in its sweet spot,then check, check and triple check that the rig is straight and then ensure your cant is not under stress causing it to bind the bar.

 

[BobL]

Bobl, I have not had time to take another pic of chain. I did cut more than a 5" piece of pine, but not a lot. I cut some wider logs and had cut some cedar another day. I have not have any trouble with the chain jumping off nor do I run any tighter than normal.

That is interesting, I guess the softer wood doesn't produce the same degree of back pressure that the hardwoods do.

When I timed the cut in the 5" cant, the reg 3/8ths with a Malloff grind cut just a little faster. It's a real aggressive cut and it throws some chips. I want to try the 8 tooth sprocket, but when I have time to measure if it actually helps.

An 8 tooth sprocket will definitely help and if you do a lot of narrow cuts I would even consider using a 9 tooth. Another way for narrow cuts is to use dedicated chain with a much lower rakers; eg raker-cutter- wood angles of around 10º

I am still going to get the carb up to speed (haven't had time to try the kit, it worked when I first put it on and then was not right the next time I went to use it) and change the coil, but I am trying to get in my house. Working on doing the stone work on the fireplace. Have an Opel II that is supposed to heat my whole house. Have a source for free oak.

Sounds like a good use of resources.

Chain saw milling seems to be slow no matter what, but I am going to try to speed things up as much as I can. When I'm doing stuff, I don't like wasted motion. If I was going to mill for money, I would get a swing blade from Baileys cause all I see chain saw milling for is for personal use.

I agree about CS milling being slow no matter what and I know what you mean about wasted motion, (I must be the laziest CS miller I know)

 

[lps8]

low pro chain, Malloff book

An 8 tooth sprocket will definitely help and if you do a lot of narrow cuts I would even consider using a 9 tooth. Another way for narrow cuts is to use dedicated chain with a much lower rakers; eg raker-cutter- wood angles of around 10º

When I sharpened the 3/8 rakers, I think I set them on 8* angle and cut them down .040 with a 1/4 wheel on my Northern tool sharpened. I am no good with a file. I just make a mess and I know it.

Bob1, are you familiar with the way Malloff shows to sharpen his chains? Mtngun mentioned that and I looked it up and actually downloaded his book. It was $10 buck or so, but has a lot of good info. Thanks, Mtngun.

Bob1, I noticed you use an 088 to mill, what kind of rpm do you turn? I have been wondering if I could do some porting on my 3120 for more power in the 9,000 rpm range. I may ask around when I have time to mess with it and I will order another cylinder and piston to play with.

Here is the best photo I could get of the chain. With my phone, I could not get the reflection in the pic even though I could see it.

 

[BobL]

When I sharpened the 3/8 rakers, I think I set them on 8* angle and cut them down .040 with a 1/4 wheel on my Northern tool sharpened. I am no good with a file. I just make a mess and I know it.

Those rakers don't look like they are set at 0.040 to me. More comments on the chain below

Bob1, are you familiar with the way Malloff shows to sharpen his chains? Mtngun mentioned that and I looked it up and actually downloaded his book. It was $10 buck or so, but has a lot of good info. Thanks, Mtngun.

Yep, I've studied his book front to back for about 4 years - It's a great read but I'm not convinced by all his methods especially with regards chains. For example his doesn't use progressive raker setting and that has been my most significant factor in improving overall cutting speed.

Bob1, I noticed you use an 088 to mill, what kind of rpm do you turn? I have been wondering if I could do some porting on my 3120 for more power in the 9,000 rpm range. I may ask around when I have time to mess with it and I will order another cylinder and piston to play with.

My RPMs are whatever I decide they are for the log/sprocket/chain conditions. With a fresh chain with highish rakers in softer wood and narrow cuts they could be around 10k with a 7 pin and maybe 9.5 with an 8 pin. In harder wider wood with low rakers they are more like 8.5 k using a 8 pin.

Here is the best photo I could get of the chain.

Some comments on your chain below this pic

It looks like some of the drive links are developing a little bashing but if you cay you have done a fair bit of milling with it already it's not that bad.
The rakers definitely don't look like they are set at 0.040" - If you take a square to side on pick of a cutter I can measure it from the photo.
The cutter hook looks to be insufficient - have a look at how much hook Malloff uses on his chains

 

[mtngun]

The only way to know for sure is to measure the thickness of the drive links. If his bar groove is worn then it may not complain even if the drive links are peened.

 

[lps8]

chain stuff comments

Mntgun, I have not checked bar, but as long as the rakers are not messed up, the bar should not be an issue yet. I have previously closed up the bar and dressed the ridge off. I have had a chain with the rakers really messed up. When I first got the 3120, it was supposed to have a 3/8 bar and chain. Well, it had a .404 and I didn't realize and when I put a 3/8 chain on it, messed up!!!!

Those rakers don't look like they are set at 0.040 to me. More comments on the chain below

It looks like some of the drive links are developing a little bashing but if you cay you have done a fair bit of milling with it already it's not that bad.
The rakers definitely don't look like they are set at 0.040" - If you take a square to side on pick of a cutter I can measure it from the photo.
The cutter hook looks to be insufficient - have a look at how much hook Malloff uses on his chains

Yep, I've studied his book front to back for about 4 years - It's a great read but I'm not convinced by all his methods especially with regards chains. For example his doesn't use progressive raker setting and that has been my most significant factor in improving overall cutting speed.

My RPMs are whatever I decide they are for the log/sprocket/chain conditions. With a fresh chain with highish rakers in softer wood and narrow cuts they could be around 10k with a 7 pin and maybe 9.5 with an 8 pin. In harder wider wood with low rakers they are more like 8.5 k using a 8 pin.

Sorry, but I had talked earlier that the chain in the pics is a std low pro stihl. I should have mentioned that with the photo. I have not checked or touched the rakers and it has the std 30*/35* top cut. The 3/8 that I was talking about, I have not taken a photo, but I will. I have not used the low pro mill chain that I got from Baileys, as I kinda slowed down on that because of yours and Mntgun's concerns. I will sharpen the std low pro with Malloff grind (hit some fence wire in the last log) and see how long it lasts and if it is worth the effort and extra expense. So far, based on timed cuts on the same board, the std 3/8 chain with Malloff cut is a little faster. Will be a little while before I get to try it again as I am working on my fireplace. Will post a pic when I get thru. x




Bobl, was it you that did the sketch on changing raker angle as the tooth wore down. That was what I went by when I ground the 3/8 chain (that I don't have a pic of).

 

[BobL]

. . . Well, it had a .404 and I didn't realize and when I put a 3/8 chain on it, messed up!!!!

That will do it.

Sorry, but I had talked earlier that the chain in the pics is a std low pro stihl. I should have mentioned that with the photo. I have not checked or touched the rakers and it has the std 30*/35* top cut. The 3/8 that I was talking about, I have not taken a photo, but I will.

Thanks for clarifying that. Either way the picture of the chain in the photo looks like it could use more hook.

Bobl, was it you that did the sketch on changing raker angle as the tooth wore down. That was what I went by when I ground the 3/8 chain (that I don't have a pic of).

I have posted a few pics like that and so have some others.

 

[pwoller]

Bobl, I have not had time to take another pic of chain. I did cut more than a 5" piece of pine, but not a lot. I cut some wider logs and had cut some cedar another day. I have not have any trouble with the chain jumping off nor do I run any tighter than normal.

When I timed the cut in the 5" cant, the reg 3/8ths with a Malloff grind cut just a little faster. It's a real aggressive cut and it throws some chips. I want to try the 8 tooth sprocket, but when I have time to measure if it actually helps.

I am still going to get the carb up to speed (haven't had time to try the kit, it worked when I first put it on and then was not right the next time I went to use it) and change the coil, but I am trying to get in my house. Working on doing the stone work on the fireplace. Have an Opel II that is supposed to heat my whole house. Have a source for free oak.

Chain saw milling seems to be slow no matter what, but I am going to try to speed things up as much as I can. When I'm doing stuff, I don't like wasted motion. If I was going to mill for money, I would get a swing blade from Baileys cause all I see chain saw milling for is for personal use.

Enough going on for now, bed time in Alabama.

Larry

What is the kit for the carb that you are referring to?

 

[lps8]

carb kit

What is the kit for the carb that you are referring to?

I am talking about a carb rebuild kit. I did some mods to a spare carb that I had bought. After the mods, I put it on and tried it out and it ran fine. The next time I cranked the saw, it did not run right, so I put the stock carb back on. I am going to clean the modded carb out and put a kit in it to see if my mods are ok. If not, then I will have to punt (figure out where I went wrong).

Larry

 

[lps8]

cranked up the mill for a mantel board

Have been working on rocking fireplace in new house, so I fired up the mill to cut a mantel. I wanted a little bigger piece, so I may have to cut another log. I see how it looks when I get further along. The way I am going to mount it, I can change it if I don't like the way it looks.

This photo shows mainly scratch coat. I'm slow, my first stone job.

View attachment 235615 View attachment 235617

 

[Dave Boyt]

That's going to be one beautiful fireplace. Take your time, you've got a great start on it!

 

[lps8]

thanks Dave

As they say in Alabama, I'm fixin to go git it. I'm so slow, it looks like I'm taking my time no matter how much I try, but it's my first time.

Larry

 

[lps8]

time for the mantel mount

Finally got thru all the cutting and fitting around the fireplace and wood box. Still have to do the back of the wood box. Ready to do the mantel mounts. Going to bolt 2) 3/8" plates with 1 1/2" pipes sticking out and then drill the mantel to slide on the pipe. View attachment 236233

 

[lps8]

saw mill beam and mantel went up today.

Put up the mantel mounts today. They are strong enough for me to hang my 200 pounds on them. Turns out to be a great mount.
View attachment 236419

Put up a pine beam cut on my Pro Cut mill. Wood was free from a neighbor. Beam is just for looks. Wife wanted concealed lighting so light will be mounted on the ceiling behind the beam. This is her sewing/craft area. I am going to put in a cedar counter top the length of the opening.
View attachment 236423

Put up the mantel cut from Eastern Cedar for cemetery blow down. Hope to finish the stone work by Wednesday. Larry
View attachment 236430

 

[Dave Boyt]

Nice. Keep the pictures coming

.

 

[lps8]

Dave, you asked for it, almost finished pic

Have a little touch-up grouting to do, then finish walls with satin lacquer, so the floor finishers can finish floor.
The wood box will have the tv mounted on top.

Larry

View attachment 236764

 

[lps8]

more photos today's work

Built bath vanity today. Still have to make drawers and doors. Took longer to design and make drawing than to build it. Use sinks designed for pedestal mount and had to cut vanity top to fit sinks. Took a little work to work out the design of the vanity front.

Vanity top is cedar milled on csm, dried, planed and sanded. Drawer fronts, doors, face frame is also cedar from csm.

On another note, floor finisher finished the pine floors today. We put down 1x6 t&g pine. (I bought it). I could not get in to take a pic today, will try to have one tomorrow. It looked great from the window. Looked like glass.

Will put in cabinets as soon as we can get on floor and then have appliances installed.

Photos of bath vanity, could not get a good view in the shop. Will get another one when finished.

View attachment 237749

Hope to get a little work done on 3120 carb after we get moved in the house. Still want to have adjustable carb, higher revs or unlimited and right chain speed and add a ported p&c. Will probably order p&c and keep the original stock.