3120XP rebuild (pics)

[husq2100]

next time you do a rebuild, try washing the jug in warm soapy water, giving a good rinse and dry. Just a few drops of 2t on the crank bearings and the wrist pin bearing, dont lube the bore.

 

[almondgt]

next time you do a rebuild, try washing the jug in warm soapy water, giving a good rinse and dry. Just a few drops of 2t on the crank bearings and the wrist pin bearing, dont lube the bore.

Don't lube the bore on a fresh rebuild? Why would you suggest that?:bang:

 

[husq2100]

Don't lube the bore on a fresh rebuild? Why would you suggest that?:bang:

if you care to stop banging your head against the wall for a second, many top 2t engine builders have been doing it that way for many years. It will get the rings to seat better and quicker to the cylinder. Think about it, by the time the saw fires there is mix in the system as there would be during normal operation, and normal lubrication/cooling....lubing everything up can be a bad thing

 

[almondgt]

if you care to stop banging your head against the wall for a second, many top 2t engine builders have been doing it that way for many years. It will get the rings to seat better and quicker to the cylinder. Think about it, by the time the saw fires there is mix in the system as there would be during normal operation, and normal lubrication/cooling....lubing everything up can be a bad thing

I can understand there wouldn't be much wear in an initial startup but what is the harm of lubing the cylinder wall, piston and piston ring on a fresh rebuild? So the initial startup of the op's saw smoked, so what is wrong with that? I would rather have some lubrication to protect internal parts than not. Dry rings to a dry cylinder wall just doesn't feel right. Just wanted to get your attention with the head banging, no disrespect intended.........:msp_smile:

 

[husq2100]

to my way of thinking the straight lube is creating a film there. It wont wash away or burn of first combustion.

 

[almondgt]

In my way of thinking that straight lube film you speak of will wash away within seconds once the mixed fuel enters the cylinder. There is so little straight lube in there and that oil is allowing the internal parts to mesh smoothly.

 

[husq2100]

what ever makes you feel warm and fuzzy....Ill take the advise of proven pro engine builders over my gut feeling...most of their methods are based on science and trial and error, with many more trails and errors to learn from.

 

[TreeSurfer]

if that were the case then why is fuel and oil allowed into the crank case? isn't there oil in the mix fuel that enters the crank case?? isn't oil lube??? so even i i put more lube in there so what, its gonna get a continuous lubbing when the saw is running.

 

[husq2100]

what amount of oil is in the fuel

 

[MCW]

what amount of oil is in the fuel

Hey I've heard the same as you Serg as far as not oiling the bore and for the same reasons. Personally I do add a bit of oil but that's only to make the piston and ring fitting easier so it doesn't get so bound up when feeding the cylinder on.

 

[TreeSurfer]

im running 50-1 in all my saws. maybe a little more oil like a half ounce more or so then 2.6 ounces to one gallon.

 

[TreeSurfer]

i used 3 in 1 oil for the lube and initial lube for start up. it smoked bad but only for 5-6 seconds. once i ran it wot it all cleared up.

btw i did a little trial and error test to see what oils burn up the fastest but also lubes good. 3-1, motor oil, even cooking oils and 3-1 was the best.

 

[MCW]

i used 3 in 1 oil for the lube and initial lube for start up. it smoked bad but only for 5-6 seconds. once i ran it wot it all cleared up.

My 3120 smokes pretty badly on startup until it clears it's throat anyway I run 30:1 in my saw.

 

[husq2100]

Matt, is your carb adjustable H? or has it been drilled?

 

[MCW]

Matt, is your carb adjustable H? or has it been drilled?

No mate. She is fixed and bog stock. I haven't touched a thing on this saw.
As you'd know it is the Australian delivered version though with the 12,000rpm limiter. The US (and maybe European?) versions have a 9,700-9,800rpm limiter.
I've been thinking of sending it to Al (AUSSIE1) to play with and mod but in the end I don't use it much anymore and it is probably destined for milling only and the odd, large downed log or tree. Funnily enough I even considered selling it for a while but my fiance said "No way". Gotta love that girl...

 

[TreeSurfer]

36" of hard wood, id rather have a 3120 then a 394-395. that extra grunt is nice

WOW 30-1 is twice as much as i use! 50-1 is 2.6 ounces per gallon, 30-1 is 4.3 ounces per gallon

 

[husq2100]

I dont know if you were joking or not, but they arnt tuned for 30-1...Yes I have heard husky reps (re concrete saws) say they address some overheating issues etc by running 25-1....I questioned that they cant be tuned to the new mix and they said what am I talking about???? If I had a 3120, I would have Simon Bertrand do a carb for it even if it was not modded. A little spent for some safety in my mind.

 

[WidowMaker1]

hey Matt ,yeah the aussie models are like the jungle version without the jungle muffler :biggrin: ...stock 12K and a bigger H jet than the US/Canadian EPA versions.. I run 25:1, as do all the logging boys around my area in all there saws!!!

 

[MCW]

36" of hard wood, id rather have a 3120 then a 394-395. that extra grunt is nice

WOW 30-1 is twice as much as i use! 50-1 is 2.6 ounces per gallon, 30-1 is 4.3 ounces per gallon

I dont know if you were joking or not, but they arnt tuned for 30-1...Yes I have heard husky reps (re concrete saws) say they address some overheating issues etc by running 25-1....I questioned that they cant be tuned to the new mix and they said what am I talking about???? If I had a 3120, I would have Simon Bertrand do a carb for it even if it was not modded. A little spent for some safety in my mind.

The manual I have with my 3120 states 25:1 and I was also informed of this by the dealer when I bought it. If something happened and it seized and I was found to be running less oil my warranty would be void. In fact I've seen a number of Aussie delivered Husky manuals state 25:1 in all saws above 85cc - new manuals over the last few years don't say that anymore. An adjustable carby would certainly be a good addition though
I've mentioned this before but some interesting info came out of a Stihl dealer in Huonville when I was talking to him a few years back. In the MS660's loggers (although a dying breed down there) were finding far less internal wear when running 25-30:1 oil ratios after long hours. It was enough to convince most pros in the area to start going back to richer oil mixes although at least the MS660 has an adjustable H jet if any compensating and tuning needs to be done.
I'm sure 50:1 does a good job but very few guys on here that support 50:1 in larger saws will ever get close to putting the hours on a saw to notice any increase in wear between the two ratios. I always laugh when I see guys say "I run this ratio and have never had any issues". Maybe if they put more than 2 hours a month on their saws they might! Oil ratios always start arguments

 

[TreeSurfer]

whats the difference between the non epa and the epa versions? is the muffler different? catalytic muffler?