Mange,did you check if the pulse hole in the cylinder is not partially blocked by carbon or something ?Mange said:Well, i put in a tested fuktional carb, a seckond new impulse line new rubber, still the same!!!
Checked the fuel line and changed it + filter just in case, still the same.
They do not make them like they used to
Ignition
Good spark at right time, but run's lean
346 Timing problems.
- Thread starter Mange
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Mange
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It is clean the saw has run on aspen since new. And it has not run since the cylinder/piston was replaced.HiOctane said:
I will change the ignition too, If that does not work, I will send it up to Gypo and he can run it over with the skidder
Could it be the module, stay tuned this will be continued shortly.
:Eye:
Mange
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Could the dealer have goten wrong piston/cylinder?
And if it is ignition, why is the plug not wet after 10 pulls without any life, even with a brand new carb/rubber/plastic's?
Yesterday I pulled the carb off and looked it over good. I had the H L out as far as the springs where loose, then it run but very lean, and Rpm went out of control.
That got me thinking. After I changed the carb and the rest of the stuff, still the same, I started thinking of the module. We will see soon.
And if it is ignition, why is the plug not wet after 10 pulls without any life, even with a brand new carb/rubber/plastic's?
Yesterday I pulled the carb off and looked it over good. I had the H L out as far as the springs where loose, then it run but very lean, and Rpm went out of control.
That got me thinking. After I changed the carb and the rest of the stuff, still the same, I started thinking of the module. We will see soon.
ehp
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To me it sounds like a fuel problem not the coil, plus it ran until they put the new jug and piston in it so you would think they did something wrong on putting it back together, is the base gasket put in correct so the vaccuum hole for the carb is open , the hose from the base to the carb , is it correct or unhooked , the only other thing is that you have a huge air leak and if it is just if you can get it running and take a can of WD 40 , and spray it around the bottom of the jug and around where the carb connects to the jug , when you spray if she quits you have found your air leak and from the sounds of it I think that is what you have is a air leak
Lawn Masters
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Ed, I think you're on the right track here. we've been thinking its an ignition or carb related problem, when in reality we're looking at an air leak.
Mange
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EHP.
I did the tests when i got it here, no leaks.
I pulled the cylinder to check the gasket, replaced it anyway, put a brand new funktional carb on it, new plastc and rubber between carb and cylinder, new impulse line, picup and hose, checked vent, still the same.
I think it is a fuel problem, or leak but where?
Before I got it they did the same after changing the cylinder and piston.
I did the tests when i got it here, no leaks.
I pulled the cylinder to check the gasket, replaced it anyway, put a brand new funktional carb on it, new plastc and rubber between carb and cylinder, new impulse line, picup and hose, checked vent, still the same.
I think it is a fuel problem, or leak but where?
Before I got it they did the same after changing the cylinder and piston.
ehp
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did you pull the flywheel to make sure it didnot rotate,
Mange it has to be a simple problem, there is not alot of things it could be but if no luck send it to me to see if I can fix it or send it to Gypo and he will really fix it
Mange it has to be a simple problem, there is not alot of things it could be but if no luck send it to me to see if I can fix it or send it to Gypo and he will really fix it
Lewis Brander
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Impulse problems:
Hello Mange. The Solo Rex I have had the same problem, but she would only run with the choke on at higher RPM's. I removed the carb and rebuilt it. The diaphragms were getting stiff. Same problem after rebuild. I ended up removing the cylinger and using a drill, unplugging the passageways. Where the cylinder was recessed into the crankcase was also plugged up with like aluminum oxide and carbon. After a through cleaning she now runs just great. I put a small vacume gauge in the impulse tube and the needle hardly moved as she was cranked over, so I suspected problems with the impulse signal. It may be a pain, but check out the cylinder passageways, cylinder base gasket and the area around the cylinder and craankcase. Take care. Lewis Brander.
Hello Mange. The Solo Rex I have had the same problem, but she would only run with the choke on at higher RPM's. I removed the carb and rebuilt it. The diaphragms were getting stiff. Same problem after rebuild. I ended up removing the cylinger and using a drill, unplugging the passageways. Where the cylinder was recessed into the crankcase was also plugged up with like aluminum oxide and carbon. After a through cleaning she now runs just great. I put a small vacume gauge in the impulse tube and the needle hardly moved as she was cranked over, so I suspected problems with the impulse signal. It may be a pain, but check out the cylinder passageways, cylinder base gasket and the area around the cylinder and craankcase. Take care. Lewis Brander.
Mange
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Ed.ehp said:did you pull the flywheel to make sure it did not rotate,
Mange it has to be a simple problem, there is not a lot of things it could be but if no luck send it to me to see if I can fix it or send it to Gypo and he will really fix it
I am as stubborn as we get, here. I will sort this out Ed, most likely with help from you here or others. The key is there and well in correct place. Ithere is a great spark, It could be a timing problem, but I checked.
I did not test the new module, will do that first thing tomorrow, I got interrupted by the naibur he wanted help with a few beer's, after a hot day I am not one to say no.
If all Else fail, it will be returned to the dealer in shame
I thank you for the offer, I know you have a saw or two to think about anyway, and this one is really not my problem, I just wanted the challenge.
Lewis.
I thought of this, since the saw did not run after the cylinder was replaced.
This was ok at this brand new HVA delivered cylinder.
I blew some air threw so i guess that is good enough.
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Lawn Masters
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You MUST be missing something, perhaps there is a blockage in the fuel pickup line. something like that.
Mange
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Nope, checked it several times, and even with all new parts that funktion on another saw this will not run. :Eye:oldsaw-addict said:
Think about this.
You have a saw, replace Cylinder, piston, gaskets, all the rubber and plastic between carb and cylinder, impuls line, carb, fuel line, pic up, all funktional from another brand new saw (exept cylinder/piston this was ordered from HVA and not from a doner saw), what is left.
The seals are tight, tested, the case is tight, tested, there is a fine strong spark and the plug does not get wet, it run's eventually but very lean, and on frightening rpm's. The flywheell is set in place and the place is correct. The tank vent is funktional, and clean.
The original carb is rebuilt, tight and work's fine on another saw.
This is what I done, but it has all been checked at the dealers, and they asked me to spend some time with it, since i have plenty, HaHa.
The mekanic there and the owner has been in buissness longer then I have been alive, so I knew this was not a simple thing.
I must leave some thing out, but what???
All apears to be correct, but ?!?
My pillow is calling me, perhaps I dream up a good idea tonight....
Lawn Masters
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Try a different coil tonight, it could be that, but I dont know. perhaps the carb settings are a little out of whack, I dont really know for sure. try richening the carb mix some, and a new coil, perhaps that would fix it, if not, I'm SURE there's something missing here we are forgetting, what I dont know, but I'm sure something is missing. have you checked the intake boot between the carb and jug? it might be the source of this whole thing too.
Mange
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Well, I changed the impulse line again, just for the **** of it, and the ignition, still the same.
I got thinking last night about a simular problem I had with a 240sg a while back. It tuned out I had wrong cylinder at that time, but it got me thinking of the timing again. If the ports ar not correct or the spark comes in the wrong tíme, it would appear something like this.
Could something happened to the crank when it scored, so the timing gets off ??????
I got thinking last night about a simular problem I had with a 240sg a while back. It tuned out I had wrong cylinder at that time, but it got me thinking of the timing again. If the ports ar not correct or the spark comes in the wrong tíme, it would appear something like this.
Could something happened to the crank when it scored, so the timing gets off ??????
Mange
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I just got your mail Frank, Nice to hear from you.
I asked the dealer that changed the cylinder about that this monday, he said it was no way, that could be since the cylinder was delivered from Husqvarna with all numbers correct.
I will have a look anyway, but i do not have the timing numbers.
Marky could you send me yours Ha ha ha.
Nah, I will as the dealer for the old jug.
I asked the dealer that changed the cylinder about that this monday, he said it was no way, that could be since the cylinder was delivered from Husqvarna with all numbers correct.
I will have a look anyway, but i do not have the timing numbers.
Marky could you send me yours
Ha ha ha.Nah, I will as the dealer for the old jug.
Lawn Masters
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Perhaps a casting flaw of some kind. I'm not sure why I hadnt thought of this in the fisrt place.
Mange
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Read the tread again, I am way ahead of you.
The dealer will not let me compare the cylinders, he asked me to test the case again then return it.
I think it is a timing thing, with cylinder.
If it is a crank case crack it would shown something in one of the many tests.
I will let you know how it turns out.
The dealer will not let me compare the cylinders, he asked me to test the case again then return it.
I think it is a timing thing, with cylinder.
If it is a crank case crack it would shown something in one of the many tests.
I will let you know how it turns out.
Maybe it has an 048 piston in it.
Chris B.
Chris B.
Mange
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That was funny!!!
Mange
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I am curious too, so I told the dealer I will not give up, and he did not let me see the old cylinder to take the port measurements, so I will spend the afternoon at his place and he will look for himself, again.
This is a interesting phenomena which can teach me a lot, and has already, not a easy fix as I first thought.
It could be a air leak, but it would show in the tests, It can be a timing thing caused by cylinder, but without having a look at the old one it is hard to be sure.
I will let you know what we find out tonight.
This is a interesting phenomena which can teach me a lot, and has already, not a easy fix as I first thought.
It could be a air leak, but it would show in the tests, It can be a timing thing caused by cylinder, but without having a look at the old one it is hard to be sure.
I will let you know what we find out tonight.
