My Papaw had one saw, only a 35cc. He cut a LOT of trees and wood with that.
346XP needs replaced....it's at 90 PSI, what saw is comparable today?
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Exactly what I thought. That isn't a ton of run time at all.
If I didn't kill trees for a living I'd probably own 3 saws at this point in life.
30-35cc top handle
50cc
70cc
201tc
261c
461 or 462..whichever.
If we had husqvarna service around us that was worth anything..but I wouldn't rely on saws I couldn't run down the street and get a bar or a simple part for.
The 346 showed up here this afternoon! Had a great time with Zeek looking into it. Did a pressure and vac test and everything held great! We decided to replace seals while it's here. Zeek did notice the little impulse hose was loose and probably was the cause of the scoring. The cylinder looks like it will clean up so he will have a spare now.
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The average guy can't tune a carb to save his life. AT/MT is a great benifit to most everyone.
Not if theres an issue. Besides, they cost a lot more up front, then if theres an issue many shops don't have a clue and the parts on them are much higher.
It's much like buying a motorcycle "to save money", I call bull crap, if you want a motorcycle, just buy one; if you want an AT/MT saw fine, but don't tell me you're saving money because you own one. For the most part a standard carb only needs tuning once, while it may not be optimal for all conditions, it will cut firewood just fine and most shops could help with that.
Awesome.
Looking forward to hearing how the rest of the project goes, that and what his next saw will be
.AT and MT are just a regular carb with a solenoid attached along with a little different style coil. They are still dead simple. They also don't cost much more when comparing like pro saws.
And a carb needs tuning more than once... I tuned nearly daily when I was logging. And certain times of year I'd retune mid day when it warmed up. If you want a saw that runs properly you really need to do this.
Most shops can't tune a carb to save their lives either...
Pretty sure I know what they are, I'm also pretty sure you making AT/MT sound as though they are no more complicated is 100% wrong.
Well, that's why I wouldn't advise someone get a "like pro saw" for a firewooding saw.
Does it. Okay, so now you're talking about logging. Properly, or perfectly, firewood saws don't need to be tuned perfect.
I agree with that
, but somehow guys get by everyday without tuning their saws. Like I said originally, for a firewood guy cutting a few cord a yr, I don't recommend AT/MT saws, if a guy is actually trying to save money; now if he wants one because he can, whatever.
What works for one, doesn't work for everyone. I like my AT/MT saws and have been a proponent of them for a long time(even when many were 100% against them), but I stand by what I said, and what you say will not change my mind
.It makes zero sense to me to buy a POS saw to cut firewood yearly.Pretty sure I know what they are, I'm also pretty sure you making AT/MT sound as though they are no more complicated is 100% wrong.
Well, that's why I wouldn't advise someone get a "like pro saw" for a firewooding saw.
Does it. Okay, so now you're talking about logging. Properly, or perfectly, firewood saws don't need to be tuned perfect.
I agree with that
Like I said originally, for a firewood guy cutting a few cord a yr, I don't recommend AT/MT saws, if a guy is actually trying to save money; now if he wants one because he can, whatever.
What works for one, doesn't work for everyone. I like my AT/MT saws and have been a proponent of them for a long time(even when many were 100% against them), but I stand by what I said, and what you say will not change my mind
AT/MT are just as I described them complexity wise.
A saw should be tuned properly every time you run it. If not it runs poorly or risks seized depending on the temperature.
When I can (for a fairly nominal one off price) buy the dongle to plug said AT/MT carb into my laptop for diagnostics & repairs then I will consider it worth having.
Until then, to me at least, it remains a superior design overwhelmingly flawed by the fact I can't practically diagnose/repair some parts the saw myself without it being prohibitively expensive due to the OEM agents shop charge for diagnosis, & then potentially for setup/calibration of replacement parts also.
Add to that, even if I was happy to just pay to fix my saw, that doesn't necessarily mean I'm going to have a Stihl or Husky agent worth a damn located a reasonable distance away
Until then, to me at least, it remains a superior design overwhelmingly flawed by the fact I can't practically diagnose/repair some parts the saw myself without it being prohibitively expensive due to the OEM agents shop charge for diagnosis, & then potentially for setup/calibration of replacement parts also.
Add to that, even if I was happy to just pay to fix my saw, that doesn't necessarily mean I'm going to have a Stihl or Husky agent worth a damn located a reasonable distance away
I wouldn't say the solenoids are particularly cheap at over US$50. It's also recommended they be replaced whenever removed so that further adds to servicing costs... additionally the m-tronic carbs & coils (should they fail) tend to cost considerably more than their non m-tronic counterparts.
As a side thought, there are plenty of 066's out there still going strong 30 years down the track... how long do you think it will be before Stihl decides to make the coils & solenoids for the m-tronic 661 NLA?
As a side thought, there are plenty of 066's out there still going strong 30 years down the track... how long do you think it will be before Stihl decides to make the coils & solenoids for the m-tronic 661 NLA?
$50 is dirt cheap. I take my wife and kids to Jimmy John's and it cost that.
Let's face it you guys are a bunch of Luddite's that just dont embrace new technology or.any change in general.
As for parts availability Stihl will support the 661 just like the 660. Regardless a chainsaw is a pretty much a disposable piece of cheap equipment And I don't expect I will have the same saw in 30 years. As time goes on stuff gets better and I embrace that.
This is America if you can't afford a chainsaw you need to apply yourself a bit more.
For generations my family (Papaw, Uncles, now me) had one saw and used it mostly in the fall to cut wood for heat. Heat from wood was supplemental but nice. Papaw I don't think ever touched the carb screws, nor did my Dad or uncles mainly because they didn't know the effects and were afraid. By accident, the saw was probably adjusted to run fairly decent (not ideal) for cooler fall weather, probably then a bit off in heat of summer for the occasional downed tree. They never used the saws enough to wear one out, and also running a bit lean probably never arose as an issue because the saws didn't get used all that long or all the hard.
I now have a few saws but only recently learned the effects of each adjustment screw, mainly because of ease and speed of quick videos on the internet, which my predecessors didn't have.
I still think it pays EVERY user to buy the highest quality saw they can afford because the experience of working with a quality piece of equipment is so much better than struggling with a saw that won't run or that vibrates one's fingers off. I also believe (opinion) that a quality older pro-level saw beats a fair-quality "rancher" saw when considering performance per dollar, which is what the OP and other firewood cutters are after.
I now have a few saws but only recently learned the effects of each adjustment screw, mainly because of ease and speed of quick videos on the internet, which my predecessors didn't have.
I still think it pays EVERY user to buy the highest quality saw they can afford because the experience of working with a quality piece of equipment is so much better than struggling with a saw that won't run or that vibrates one's fingers off. I also believe (opinion) that a quality older pro-level saw beats a fair-quality "rancher" saw when considering performance per dollar, which is what the OP and other firewood cutters are after.
Never having to replace a solenoid is cheaper
.How many MT?AT saws do you have?
Really, is that why they couldn't even keep saws on the shelves
.I feel the same way, but if you're talking about someone who is trying to actually save a buck cutting firewood... Some stuff gets better, some doesn't.
Very empathetic of you when so many are having a hard time because of the bidenflation.
Anyone is free to buy as many as they want...their money.
