Can't get the muffler bolt out, one is stripped.....so I can take a pic of the real deal when I pull it apart.Na, this thread will deal with it.
Interior of cylinder would be good- but at least the piston through the exhaust port for a start.
Can't get the muffler bolt out, one is stripped.....so I can take a pic of the real deal when I pull it apart.Na, this thread will deal with it.
Interior of cylinder would be good- but at least the piston through the exhaust port for a start.
You also need to check the end gap of the ring in the cylinder Use the piston to square it up and feeler gauges to measure. This needs to be done in a clean (no transfer) cylinder.Can't get the muffler bolt out, one is stripped.....so I can take a pic of the real deal when I pull it apart.
Check the end for what tolerance? What is a clean, no transfer cylinder? I can promise this saw was never previously seized, that is unless we have different defintions of seized. Seized to me means it ran without lubrictaion, got too hot, and the piston got stuck. What say you?You also need to check the end gap of the ring in the cylinder Use the piston to square it up and feeler gauges to measure. This needs to be done in a clean (no transfer) cylinder.
Cylinders don't usually wear as the nikasil is VERY hard. I suspect that you have been running a previously seized engine. Post some photos of the inside of the cylinder. You also need to get that muffler off. Penetrating oil and heat.
Checked the decomp...but now that I write this, maybe I didn't. Check compression with decomp not pressed, then pressed it comapression was about 35 psi lower. I guess it could leaking pressed and not pressed. How would you check the decomp? I assume the tiny screen is the arrester, yes it was clean.Does the saw have a decompression button?
Have you checked the spark arrestor in the exhaust isn't plugged up with carbon?
A lot of times you will see a big gap in performance. Most homeowner saws are clamshell design as well.Ok...so why do I need a professional saw? I'm thinking a box store 450 or 445 with a 2 year warranty that I can extend to 5 years by buying fuel is better. My wife and I were talking and we were both curious about what really is the difference in the professional versus the homeowner saw? Do they really make a different saw, or are some parts the same? Is the metal the same? What is the REAL difference, or is just stickers amd marketing? I see a 1 year professional saw warranty and think that is not for me, a farmer with a wood burner. Thoughts?
I'd be shopping for an OEM 346XP NE piston and cylinder $150, rather than a new saw that will have little or no performance improvement and have an electronic carb that you can't easily service yourself.
There isn't an Echo in that class that can hang with a 346xp.Echo 490 is close to the same size cc. I have 3 years on one and the only adjustment needed was the auto oiler. 5 yr homeowner warranty.
Thanks. I don't know what "old transfer port style" is or if I have it. I know it was made in 2011.All OEM... If you have the old transfer port style
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1439314420...OuwJLHXkbDcSVSrd+0baMt1g==|tkp:Bk9SR-KWroqfYQ
New Edition port style...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1541555932...cgXRJClDw8ZTQ/tsRdPMoJfg==|tkp:Bk9SR-KWroqfYQ
I have new!Casted as part of the cylinder.... old edition.
View attachment 1039183
New Edition... bolted on with sealant...
View attachment 1039187
Your right, but if he's on a budget and needs a running saw a 4910 will be just fine for his needs. Then he can take his time and go through the 346xp.There isn't an Echo in that class that can hang with a 346xp.
Would pay to check those covers are sealing too... one being loose would likely affect compression a bitI have new!
Old & worn out is pretty improbable given that you have replaced the ring.All great replies and I do want to save it. I assume that after 11 years the P/C just got worn out and there was no "failure event" that casued the low compression. The P/C look good to me but what do I know....I don't often rebuild stuff. I can't see anything wrong, I just assume that it's old and worn out. Does that happen?
You should add if using the original clamp it needs modified a bit for the new clamp. Not hard to do at all. Just a little patience, and a side cutter/sharp knife to remove the old clamp parts.Also, upgrade your intake clamp to this style. Will seal better to prevent an air leak that will make the saw run lean and burn up that new piston and cylinder. Husqvarna part number 505283309.
View attachment 1039201 View attachment 1039202
Your first pic isn’t just the old edition. The ne 346 has the same cylinder with 44.3mm bore vs oe being 42m. Both are xpCasted as part of the cylinder.... old edition.
View attachment 1039183
New Edition... bolted on with sealant...
View attachment 1039187
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