McCulloch Chain Saws

[JSMississippi]

The 10-10S is a totally different animal that a "regular" 10-10 or the 10-10 Super. The porting on the 57cc saws is much better than the porting on the 54cc saws.

Mark

Didn't know there was a 10-10 Super, so that scratches my theory. Really looking forward to feeling how much snot this one has in some wood. It definitely sounds healthy. My only experience is with my father in law's Stihl MS210.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Didn't know there was a 10-10 Super, so that scratches my theory. Really looking forward to feeling how much snot this one has in some wood. It definitely sounds healthy. My only experience is with my father in law's Stihl MS210.

You'll hate to use that little saw after this.

Infact it will ruin you for most homeowner grade saws and within about 2 years you'll have 20 odd mean saws

 

[heimannm]

The 10-10 Super (Super 10-10A) that I have is a RH start but there were LH start versions as well.





In my limited experience, there was nothing really super about the Super 10-10(A) models.

Mark

 

[JSMississippi]

Got to a stopping point to break for lunch. Here's how she's looking so far:

I've torn down and cleaned some dirty old American V8 engines/parts, but I think this saw takes the cake for how much crud was hanging out in crevices! Using my air compressor to blow off a lot of the crud, I think I put something on my walls and workbench akin to Jackson *******! I think this may have helped preserve what's underneath though.

One bar plate was where it should be between the bar and oil tank, and the other was hanging out back by the muffler, but I do have both!

Split the tank and found about what was expected for sitting with fuel for years (but I think it could be worse!). Looks like the fuel line was kinked by the filter, and the filter looked pretty bad too, I'm surprised I got this thing to meter fuel at all before. Could explain why it seemed like it was starving out then if I shook the tank it would act like it was getting fuel again.


Hit it with a bit of Goof Off spray to soften up the varnish, then going to try a scouring pad as mentioned on here previously. Looks like the paint is bubbling a bit in a few areas like over by where the handle mounts, I'll try to be gentle there.

Looks like some kind of cloth got caught in the sprocket at some point!

 

[JSMississippi]

Figured I'd not pull the fuel tank off if I didn't have to.


Muffler was very loose against the cylinder and no exhaust gasket was present. Moment of truth now - the piston and cylinder look good I think! I see some light scoring but the rings look good and I can still see some crosshatch in the cylinder walls and I don't see any chrome missing. Piston top is a bit carboned up, but better than I thought from peeping through the spark plug hole previously.






Thoughts from those wiser than me?

 

[heimannm]

You will get different opinions, but I like the Viton fuel tank gaskets. There are many fuel line options out there, more than a few do not fit the hole in the tank very well but a few wraps of Teflon tape and solved the leaking on many saws for me.

Don't overlook some of the water based cleaners for the fuel tank, they may surprise you. I used Purple Power and a toothbrush on this one, maybe 20 minutes total elapsed time.





Absolutely make sure you pressure and vacuum test the saw before you put it back together. I would not be at all surprised that the PTO side seal is leaking with that much stuff wrapped in the crankshaft. It's possible to replace that seal without splitting the crankcase, but you must be very careful not to damage the bore where the seal sits as you are digging the old one out. I would recommend separating the crankcase if you must replace one or both seals, that would also give you a chance to clean up the top of the piston without having to worry about some carbon flaking off and potentially causing a scoring issue.

Mark

 

[vinnywv]

As mark stated, replace the tank gasket and get the viton. No worries then. They work very well. A purist will say use cork and thats great too. Either way get a new one. It appears your exhaust gasket is there. Get one though so it seals up better. If you have to take it down for seals there is plenty of help here to get you on your way. We all took one apart once and had no idea what was going on but now its second nature. Youll have it running again in no time.

 

[JSMississippi]

Thanks guys for your thoughts. I do suppose there is the exhaust gasket still there! I was thinking it would be wider and have the bolts run through it, but it looks like it's just that rectangle that fits in the recess.

I worked at it on this tank for probably another hour to two, using a few different solvents and toothbrush, wire brush, and scour pad. This varnish is THICK! Here's where I am now, and have it soaking with gasoline in it overnight. Might need to get some of that Purple Power. I'm guessing it would be best to go ahead and remove all the paint? Will this be fine long term?


I previously bought a set of gaskets, fuel line and filter, and both crank seals just to be prepared for whatever I'd need. I did notice there was a gasket between the tank halves on the carburetor side, but did not stay intact. I see PN 219280 in the IPL. Do you source a replacement, or would some sealant be fine?

Definitely plan to pressure test the crankcase - hopefully tomorrow!

Spent some more time knocking more crud out of the shroud and cooling fins and under the fuel tank. Even inside the fuel tank handle was loaded with grime. Made the mistake of hitting the black plastic handle grip with carb cleaner and melted some of it right onto my gloves. Live and learn. How it sits until tomorrow:

 

[JSMississippi]

Pulled all the cloth off the crank:


I've fiddled around for about 3 hours now trying to make a block off plate without much luck. I'm guessing that's my problem. Can't even get it to start holding pressure or vacuum. Put rubber under the muffler and cinched it tight, put spark plug in, made sure DSP was closed. I'm thinking the problem is my seal where my pressure line meets my block off plate. Is there a better way to do this? I am stumped.

 

[AWise_mac_nut]

Pulled all the cloth off the crank:
View attachment 1234958

I've fiddled around for about 3 hours now trying to make a block off plate without much luck. I'm guessing that's my problem. Can't even get it to start holding pressure or vacuum. Put rubber under the muffler and cinched it tight, put spark plug in, made sure DSP was closed. I'm thinking the problem is my seal where my pressure line meets my block off plate. Is there a better way to do this? I am stumped.
View attachment 1234959

I would remove the tank/trigger assembly myself to ensure the insulator block below your intake block off is not cracked, attached are screen shots from the 10 series shop manual on pressure testing the cylinder.

 

[Joe Crow]

Try spraying a solution of soapy water around all your block off points including spark plug and decomp valve. If you see bubbles that is your leak. Do not do this in vacuum! I apologize if you have already done this. Check out Married With Small Engines on YouTube. Erica is extremely proficient at this and a great teacher.

 

[JSMississippi]

Thanks guys. Went back out to it right after my last post and realized my mistake of not having the tank bolts in and was pushing/pulling air though the insulator area I believe. Reinstalled those two to seal the insulator and started getting it to hold pressure and vacuum (well enough to see it bleeding down on the gauge). Sprayed some WD40 around my block off and found my rubber I cut had torn at one of the bolt holes and was slowly leaking there. Did the same around the crank seals and no bubbles so far (got up to positive 10psi peak) but still want to confirm without a leaky block off. Out of time for today and just getting on here to see your responses, thanks! Suppose I might pull the tank next time I get back out there. Those shop manual screenshots are helpful!

 

[heimannm]

One other thing to keep in mind is that your model, like many true McCulloch saws, has an impulse operated automatic oil pump and it is very possible for some pressure/vacuum to bypass through the automatic pump. Often you can hear a pressure leak if you remove the cap from the oil tank and get your ear down close.

Mark