359 E-Tech - 14000RPM to high/lean?

[HickoryNick]

Howdy yall. I know I know, long time no post. Been busy with a zillion other things. My hobbies switch season to season, so I'm back around to sawin.

Yup, I used the search feature and was unable to find the answer I was looking fer.

Would you consider 14,000 RPM on the Husky 359 E-Tech to be to high? I've ran about 10 tank fulls through the saw before I decided to tune it up from factory break-in/rich setting. I decided to let a husky shop do it seeing as I'd rather let someone with experience show me how it's done. He did it by ear and then tached it and it was about 14,000. Seemed a little high to me, do ya think it may be leaned out too much?

Hope everyone has been doing well!

Thanks,
HickoryNick

 

[skytow]

Nick,

I'm no expert but I do have a 359 (now with out the cat!) and I'm set at 13500 which is the book spec.

Jeff

 

[blis]

A bit high id say, but if you ditch the e-tech muffler it should be okay...

 

[SawTroll]

A bit high id say, but if you ditch the e-tech muffler it should be okay...

Specs call for max 13500 rpm, regardless if it is an e-tech, or not.

 

[blis]

Specs call for max 13500 rpm, regardless if it is an e-tech, or not.

im sure you are right but afaik the max rpm is +/- 1000 rpm...

 

[Monkeyhanger]

im sure you are right but afaik the max rpm is +/- 1000 rpm...

Hi,

how can a maximum be +/- anything? It is either a maximum value or it isn't. I think you may mean the reserve that the manufacturer has around the maximum recommended setting, especially the + side of things, to keep things in a safe and reliable area. Some saws with cat./E-tech may have a minimum Max setting e.g. at least 13000 but not more than 14000 or whatever to make sure the cat stays hot enough to work (at least thats what I believe, could be wrong though).

I think...

Bye

 

[Crofter]

The question is, what exactly are you trying to control with a certain RPM setting of the carb mixture? Is it the RPM itself or is it the relative rich / lean condition of the mixture. The mixture at a given WOT no load will vary from saw to saw depending on bar length, air temperature, elevation, condition of filter etc. Since it doesnt spend much time actually at WOT, I dont think the RPM is as critical as the mixture. I would not trust any RPM figure without verifying with other signs directly related to actual operating mixture, such as plug colour, saw temperature and power in the cut. A touch rich is a lot safer than a touch lean!

 

[Luke]

Crofter - Plug question

Crofter - Do you read 2 cylce plugs like 4 cycle? I've not paid that much attention to my plugs. I normally just tune with a tach to make sure I'm not way out of line with rpm. But my plugs are normally black, I figured that meant I was fat and safe, and that 2 cycles would probably be dark anyway. My modded 372 was running 14.9k, I pulled the plug and 1/2 of it was brown with some white on the ground strap. I know to do this correctly you need new plugs, but do you think I'm a little lean?

Thanks,

Luke

 

[blis]

Crofter - Do you read 2 cylce plugs like 4 cycle? I've not paid that much attention to my plugs. I normally just tune with a tach to make sure I'm not way out of line with rpm. But my plugs are normally black, I figured that meant I was fat and safe, and that 2 cycles would probably be dark anyway. My modded 372 was running 14.9k, I pulled the plug and 1/2 of it was brown with some white on the ground strap. I know to do this correctly you need new plugs, but do you think I'm a little lean?

Thanks,

Luke

brownish is ideal, black is either too rich or bad oil...

 

[Crofter]

Mixed fuel makes plugs harder to read. In four stroke a light tan colour is good but I usually see slightly darker where I choose to run a saw. Head and exhaust temperature is really what we should be measuring to be sure we are not too lean, not rpm at wot. That is only a rough estimate of what an average stock saw will run at if it is adjusted for the proper full load mixture. Once a saw is modified that recommended max RPM is no longer valid. What is liveable for a few timed cuts will be too lean for sustained cutting. That 14,900 figure you set the cold saw at might be giving you some pretty high piston temperatures after some steady cutting. It might be where it cuts the fastest but it is not where it will last the longest.

My modded 372 gets set at 14,600 for timed cuts but there are so many variables ( like my bored venturi or muffler openin ) that it means nothing to another saw. I richen it down to around 14 for cutting firewood.

 

[Luke]

14.9 was just the result of setting 12.8 in 95 degree weather, I never wanted it that high. I fattened it up a little, but have not ran it yet. I need to put a new plug in it and find out what I really have.

 

[outdoortype]

"14.9 was just the result of setting 12.8 in 95 degree weather, I never wanted it that high."-posted by luke

I know what you mean. I watched 2 saws increase 400 RPM's when the outdoor temps dropped 20 degrees. One of the saw's used intellicarb which I thought was supposed to compensate for air changes. The question is, if you richen the mixture to protect you from running lean in cold weather, will it cause carbon damage the rest of the time? It seems like you almost have to adjust the carb for the seasonal changes.

 

[HickoryNick]

Thanks for all the replies. The manual for the saw states that it comes from the factory a bit rich and to lean it out after a good run-in time. That's why I took it to the dealer, to let him do some final adjustments. He's been at it a little while, but I still figured I'd check with yall.

When he adjusted it, he removed the cover and air filter.

The saw screams now, but I'm wondering if it isn't a little to lean and that 14,000 was a little high. I may back the H jet back down just a fuzz to be safe.

One other thing. The manual says that when the saw is properly set, the saw will 4 cycle just a little at high throttle. What does that sound like?

Thanks,
Nick

 

[blis]

Thanks for all the replies. The manual for the saw states that it comes from the factory a bit rich and to lean it out after a good run-in time. That's why I took it to the dealer, to let him do some final adjustments. He's been at it a little while, but I still figured I'd check with yall.

When he adjusted it, he removed the cover and air filter.

The saw screams now, but I'm wondering if it isn't a little to lean and that 14,000 was a little high. I may back the H jet back down just a fuzz just to be safe.

One other thing. The manual says that when the saw is properly set, the saw will 4 cycle just a little at high throttle. What does that sound like?

Thanks,
Nick

normally it just means slight chance in tone...

but adjusting saw without cover and airfilter????? thats like againts every principle of tuning saw...

 

[Freakingstang]

The 4 stroke, or 4 cycle sound is a slight burble at WOT, but should clean up when it is put in wood

 

[Freakingstang]

normally it just means slight chance in tone...

but adjusting saw without cover and airfilter????? thats like againts every principle of tuning saw...

not always...The most air flow will be without the covers. If the covers are removed, then the carb it set. It will always be slightly rich with the covers and filter on...

it is always better to have them slightly rich rather than slightly lean....

 

[blis]

not always...The most air flow will be without the covers. If the covers are removed, then the carb it set. It will always be slightly rich with the covers and filter on...

it is always better to have them slightly rich rather than slightly lean....

but when youre adjusting like that theres always change of dirt getting into engine which is never good... Also when adjusting with covers and filter on you can just turn it a bit on rich side to prevent running on lean...