359 runs on choke only

[dieseldodge]

My Dad gave me his husky 359 to fix. Its a year and a half old and has a muffler mod with the limit screw caps removed. I got it to run but only on choke. It will run not real fast until the plug fouls out. As soon as the choke is off it stalls out. Is this the sign of an air leak and how would I find it. It doesnt seem like a fuel supply issue but maybe. thanks for any suggestions.
jason

 

[parrisw]

Sounds like an air leak, check to make sure the carb screws that hold it on are tight. If those are good check the cylinder bolts are tight too. If no air leak found the carb may have a problem and need to be rebuilt.

 

[hokiebob1]

An old hotrodder trick to find a vacuum leak is to get it running and spray choke or carb cleaner around it--when the revs go up, you've found where the leak is. Its got to be lean (ie. air leak).

 

[dieseldodge]

I just checked the carb bolts to make sure that they were tight. also checked the cylinder bolts. I will go and try to spray some carb cleaner around the intake and the cylinder base and see what happens. It sure cant hurt at this point
jason

 

[sugarbush]

remove the muffler and check piston/cyl for scoring.

 

[dieseldodge]

No scoring on the cylinder that I can see from the exaust port. I did spray carb cleaner on the intake boot and it stalled it out both times that I tried it. that intake boot lookes like a pain it the but I might have to take the whole saw apart. I guess that nothing ventured nothing gained. I wonderif I will have to buy the whole new intake also.
jason

 

[TimberPig]

Try this thread,
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=44796

It sounds like you are both chasing the same problems.

 

[dieseldodge]

Thanks everyone for the help The carb cleaner trick worked .The boot from the cylinder to the carb had a slice in it somehow. Must have been sucking air thru the tear. That is a bugger to get apart. I ended up putting it back together 3 times. I had to take the cylinder off and then attach the boot to get it back on right. Then put the cylinder back on with the boot attached already and the put the carb back on. I pluged the leak with some silicone. hopefully it will last awhile.
jason

 

[THALL10326]

Thanks everyone for the help The carb cleaner trick worked .The boot from the cylinder to the carb had a slice in it somehow. Must have been sucking air thru the tear. That is a bugger to get apart. I ended up putting it back together 3 times. I had to take the cylinder off and then attach the boot to get it back on right. Then put the cylinder back on with the boot attached already and the put the carb back on. I pluged the leak with some silicone. hopefully it will last awhile.
jason

You plugged the leak, hmmmmmmmm..

 

[hokiebob1]

Ahh, I miss the old hotrodder days--glad the tip helped.

 

[troutfisher]

Thanks everyone for the help The carb cleaner trick worked .The boot from the cylinder to the carb had a slice in it somehow. Must have been sucking air thru the tear. That is a bugger to get apart. I ended up putting it back together 3 times. I had to take the cylinder off and then attach the boot to get it back on right. Then put the cylinder back on with the boot attached already and the put the carb back on. I pluged the leak with some silicone. hopefully it will last awhile.
jason

When the patch lets go, it will lean out and possibly cause severe damage. especially if it happens in the cut. Sometimes the carb and cylinder are on different parts of the saw and flex with the anti - vibe. Flex the handle and engine, and watch the boot to see if is affected.

 

[dieseldodge]

Im going to order a new boot to make sure that is right. I put silicone on the tear inside and out it seemed to work. The saw runs fine now. It should hold in theory, Its just has to stop air. Hopfully

 

[troutfisher]

Im going to order a new boot to make sure that is right.

That is a very good plan. Here's a parts book.

 

[jomac11]

I had the same problem on the stihl 028. It turned out that one of the screws that held the two halves of the saw together had backed itself out. Had to put a little larger screw in to get it to stay together...

 

[TimberPig]

Im going to order a new boot to make sure that is right. I put silicone on the tear inside and out it seemed to work. The saw runs fine now. It should hold in theory, Its just has to stop air. Hopfully

It will hold long enough to get a new boot, but I would avoid running it any more than necessary with the patch job. Silicone deteriorates in the presence of fuel vapors, and will break down, causing a massive air leak again. No sense toasting a saw over an intake boot.

 

[dieseldodge]

Awsome thanks troutfisher. I like going to the dealer and looking like I kinda know what Im doing, they seem to give alittle more respect that way. Not to mention its just plain faster. thanks Im going to order one today.
jason