tundraotto
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change from a 7 tooth sprocket to a 10 tooth makes a helluva difference. you can bog anything down with a big enough sprocket - sprockets are real cheap too!
372-385 hybred
- Thread starter kdhotsaw2
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sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
bwalker, It was I who spoke of re-chroming. Re-chrome was used as a generic term like "band-aid" most who say "band-aid" mean "adhesive bandage" or "kleenex" for tissue etc. I have a lightly scored jug for a 49SP and a brand new piston/ring for same. The cylinder needs to be repaired, I will send it to US CHROME even though they don't "re-chrome" cylinders!
http://www.usnicom.com/flash.html
http://www.usnicom.com/flash.html
Sedan, Us chrome is one of the best if not the best plater in the country. I am sure you will be happy with there Work. Be forwarned though that the finish on the outside of your cylinder will look differant than stock. This really only matters if you are doing a restore job. The reason for this is that they put the cylinder in a acid bath to remove the oem plateing which causes the exterior aluminum to take on a bright grey tone.
Howdy-
bwalker is correct when he mentioned that the current SP/TT and Nikasil treatments are the best for these smaller saws straight from the factory. There's a company called Boretech that has created a carbide plating process for the older saws that still have the cast iron sleeves. It makes the cast iron wall as wear resistant as the Nikasil or Electrofusion coatings. The rep from Boretech did mention however that the best plating for magnesium cylinders is Nikasil. They wear tested Nikasil vs. Chrome, and Chrome vs. their Carbide platings.
http://www.bore-tech.com/carbidebore.htm
The only concern I have about boring these cylinders out is how thin the cylinder wall is. I thought about boring out an 066 jug for a long time but certain areas of the cylinder are very thin.
Sedanman, I saw your post on Jonsered 49sp cylinders, I have a number of brand new ones if you're interested in picking one up.
bwalker is correct when he mentioned that the current SP/TT and Nikasil treatments are the best for these smaller saws straight from the factory. There's a company called Boretech that has created a carbide plating process for the older saws that still have the cast iron sleeves. It makes the cast iron wall as wear resistant as the Nikasil or Electrofusion coatings. The rep from Boretech did mention however that the best plating for magnesium cylinders is Nikasil. They wear tested Nikasil vs. Chrome, and Chrome vs. their Carbide platings.
http://www.bore-tech.com/carbidebore.htm
The only concern I have about boring these cylinders out is how thin the cylinder wall is. I thought about boring out an 066 jug for a long time but certain areas of the cylinder are very thin.
Sedanman, I saw your post on Jonsered 49sp cylinders, I have a number of brand new ones if you're interested in picking one up.
Cast Iron can be nicasiled. Many guys that race vinatge bikes have to get this done as a last reseort when all the oversizes are used up. The problem is that Nicasil main advantage is that it transfers heat much better when coated on plain aluminum. Add it to iron and this advantage goes out the window. BTW elctro fusion stinks. The only OEM to use it(kawasaki) has discontinued its use and went to nicasil. Electro fusion is very thin, brittle, and rusts very easy. Cast iron is far superior to electrofusion in most respects.
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ken,
Any recent news on any Husky Hybred's???How do all the west coast fallers like these saw's your building for them...
Later Rob..
Any recent news on any Husky Hybred's???How do all the west coast fallers like these saw's your building for them...
Later Rob..
Good thread. Id be interested to see if Ken has done many more of these.
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Agreed!
How about a 066 cylinder on a 044 or maybe a 80cc 044 hybrid 385 destroyer.
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I'd love to see Ken do that!
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
Anybody else tried this?
Ken,
This really got me to thinking, could I do this myself. I have access to several older 372's that are on the downhill side. Is it possible to take the old cylinder off the saw have it bored out by a local machinist and sent away to US chrome to do the plating? I just wondered if I was missing anything here. The cylinder would have to be plated and honed to 52mm. Then reassemble with new piston and I would be ready to run? I know that I would have to do some inspection of the older saw to replace any fatigued parts such as bearings and what not generall maintence,etc... Am I missing anything? Thanks Wade Huggins
Ken,
This really got me to thinking, could I do this myself. I have access to several older 372's that are on the downhill side. Is it possible to take the old cylinder off the saw have it bored out by a local machinist and sent away to US chrome to do the plating? I just wondered if I was missing anything here. The cylinder would have to be plated and honed to 52mm. Then reassemble with new piston and I would be ready to run? I know that I would have to do some inspection of the older saw to replace any fatigued parts such as bearings and what not generall maintence,etc... Am I missing anything? Thanks Wade Huggins
Its quit a bit more involved than that, crowe.
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
Thats why I am curious
That is why I am asking, what other steps am I missing I am no master mechanic by any means but that is why I get on here to listen and learn. I rebuild all my saw's so I am not a total novice just trying to get my feet in the water a little deeper. What else do I need to consider? Thanks, Wade Huggins
That is why I am asking, what other steps am I missing I am no master mechanic by any means but that is why I get on here to listen and learn. I rebuild all my saw's so I am not a total novice just trying to get my feet in the water a little deeper. What else do I need to consider? Thanks, Wade Huggins
Crowe, Here are some issue to think about. 1. when boring the nicasiled cylinder out to except the bigger piston you must use special tooling and techniques as nicisil is very hard 2. You must take into account the fact that the transfer port area will shrink as you bore the cylinder out. This will have to be corrected or you will make less power with the bigger cylinder. 3. porting nicicsil is tough for a beginner. 4. you must determin if the transfer duct size of the originnal saw is adequate for a bigger cylinder.5 Is the carb jet size adequate? I am sure there is much more than this, but you get the idea.
StIhL MaGnUm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would like to know if Ken is building anymore of theese for the local loggers and such or if it was a one time deal..??Looks like a very good idea to me..
Later Rob..
Later Rob..
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks
Thanks Ben,
You covered some very crucial points I was unaware of. I have friend who does a lot of work on motorcycles and is currently in the process of taking over a local dealers shop he is more than happy to help me do all the work, I am just trying to figure out how to get all my ducks in a row so I could make it work. I have a couple more questions to ask on the subject but I will fire those out later this evening after I finish up some chores, thanks again Wade
Thanks Ben,
You covered some very crucial points I was unaware of. I have friend who does a lot of work on motorcycles and is currently in the process of taking over a local dealers shop he is more than happy to help me do all the work, I am just trying to figure out how to get all my ducks in a row so I could make it work. I have a couple more questions to ask on the subject but I will fire those out later this evening after I finish up some chores, thanks again Wade
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Crowe: The idea of being able to hop up your own saw is very enticing. It comes up here quite frequently and if you search out the threads about it you will see that it doesn't seem to get a lot of enthusiastic support. It is not to try to discourage you from doing so, but it is not really that easy. To ask the experienced builders exactly what you would have to do is a bit like going to a master violinist and suggesting that since you have nothing to do for an hour, would he show you what he knows about playing the violin. Its not that it is a secret, but they would have to pump a lot of background information into you to bring you up to speed and then if you screw up the tendency would be for you to blame them for misleading specs. I'm not trying to be mean spirited in any way, but I think you should do a lot more research before you are anywhere near ready to start grinding on your saw. It is probably easier to detune a saw and the metal is hard to put back once it is gone.
Frank
Frank
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
I agree
Crofter,
I hear where you are coming from. I just get so pumped up wanting to do these things to my own saw. There is nobody around here that does saw work as far as getting powergains are concerned. Right down the road from where I live is Dale Fore Timber, He sales Stihl and Husky chainsaw's and use to be the biggest Stihl dealer this side of the Mississippi and to speak of modifying a saw is like speaking of the devil in church. I use to deal with them for years and I know all those guys well but they will have no talk of it. Thats why I like getting on here, everbody for the most part is more than willing to help. I know people with good equipment that are willing to help me out I am just trying to find out the important things I need to consider before I even try to take on this project. It really sounds like a great idea especially if you have access to several used saws a great way to make use of some worn out cylinders. Maybe I just went clear off the deep end but I am having fun thinking about it, take care all, Wade H
Crofter,
I hear where you are coming from. I just get so pumped up wanting to do these things to my own saw. There is nobody around here that does saw work as far as getting powergains are concerned. Right down the road from where I live is Dale Fore Timber, He sales Stihl and Husky chainsaw's and use to be the biggest Stihl dealer this side of the Mississippi and to speak of modifying a saw is like speaking of the devil in church. I use to deal with them for years and I know all those guys well but they will have no talk of it. Thats why I like getting on here, everbody for the most part is more than willing to help. I know people with good equipment that are willing to help me out I am just trying to find out the important things I need to consider before I even try to take on this project. It really sounds like a great idea especially if you have access to several used saws a great way to make use of some worn out cylinders. Maybe I just went clear off the deep end but I am having fun thinking about it, take care all, Wade H
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Crowe. There is some good info on this site for backgrounding in two stroke tuning.
I have done a bit of carving on weedwhacker and saw engines for Radio controlled planes. Im not sorry I did it but the urge has been satisfied. If I had paid myself a dollar an hour I could have bought a more user friendly product. Everyone has to pay to learn though. Thats the law. Have fun
Frank
http://www.macdizzy.com/build.htm
I have done a bit of carving on weedwhacker and saw engines for Radio controlled planes. Im not sorry I did it but the urge has been satisfied. If I had paid myself a dollar an hour I could have bought a more user friendly product. Everyone has to pay to learn though. Thats the law. Have fun
Frank
http://www.macdizzy.com/build.htm
crowe
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Frank
Crofter,
Thanks again for all your help over the last couple of days. I am going to check out that site you turned me on to, Later Wade
Crofter,
Thanks again for all your help over the last couple of days. I am going to check out that site you turned me on to, Later Wade
