372XP rebuild for a newby

[brianpgriset]

 

[brianpgriset]

 

[rob066]

A rebuild you did yourself gives you a good feeling when it runs. I get a great feeling when I did one and make revenue with it.

 

[brianpgriset]

Ok been a bit since the last update, finally got all the parts in (bearings were backordered).

About to reassemble crankcase halves, bearings, and crank.

First question, do you typically fit the case gasket dry or is it best to dress both sides with a good sealant like hondabond, etc?

Thanks!

 

[brianpgriset]

One more thing before I forget, manual states to install bearings in crankcase first, then pull crank in with a special tool. Since I don't have that tool, was planning to heat/install bearings on crank first, then heat case halves and install crank/bearings into case.

Any issue with change of order?

 

[Chris_In_VT]

One more thing before I forget, manual states to install bearings in crankcase first, then pull crank in with a special tool. Since I don't have that tool, was planning to heat/install bearings on crank first, then heat case halves and install crank/bearings into case.

Any issue with change of order?

You can do it either way.
I just did a rebuild on this series saw as well. I installed the bearings into the case first. Heated each half in the oven, and the bearings dropped right into place.
I pulled the crank onto the bearings using the case bolts. Took a little heat to get it started enough for the threads to grab, but once it started, it was simple to just alternate tightening the bolts.

 

[brianpgriset]

Ok, heated the bearings on a hot plate and they dropped onto the crank. Then heated the clutch side case half and dropped in the crank. Then followed suit with flywheel side. Took a few whacks with a dead blow to seat the half but looks like it's on good. Then torqued the case bolts. Crank is tight so I'll give it a few whacks to center it.

I fit it up with gasket dry.

Also pulled apartheid, cleaned, and reassembled the oil pump.

 

[AKDoug]

Read this thread. It will help you on your reassembly. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/case-bearing-installation.246892/page-2#post-4561530

 

[brianpgriset]

Thanks reading up now. I just drummed a little tune on the crank and the bearings freed up. While doing it the tone of the hammering suddenly changed and then it started rolling real easy. At first I thought I broke something but I looked it over real good and everything looks solid so the bottom end is done.

 

[brianpgriset]

All together

 

[brianpgriset]

 

[brianpgriset]

Ok punched in the seals, then went ahead with the oil pump and clutch, then took care of the flywheel and coil.

 

[Chris_In_VT]

Did you remember the little tiny O-ring that goes behind that metal bushing the oil pump rides on?
It's a real small piece.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Great saw to work on. I always seem to wrestle with the tank when I fit it to the casing though.
I've also noticed the throttle cable sheath can shrink thus limiting WOT.
Does anyone do a turbo delete on these saws?

 

[Chris_In_VT]

Yup, I love working on this series of saw.
Can almost rebuild one blindfolded now.
I've never seen the cable sheath shrink, but have seen it worn through and limit WOT.

Turbo delete? Do you mean removing the air injection tube? What benefits would this gain?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Yup, I love working on this series of saw.
Can almost rebuild one blindfolded now.
I've never seen the cable sheath shrink, but have seen it worn through and limit WOT.

Turbo delete? Do you mean removing the air injection tube? What benefits would this gain?

Ya, I noticed cable was shy of WOT so I changed it out. The air tube was broken, so was wondering if it actually does anything?

 

[brianpgriset]

Did you remember the little tiny O-ring that goes behind that metal bushing the oil pump rides on?
It's a real small piece.

I did, even bought three cause I was sure I was going to screw one up!

Two more updates:

1 - I think I may have seated the flywheel side seal a bit too deep but not sure. Crank still turns over, not free but doesn't feel like it's in a bind at all just drag from the lip seal. I'm going to go ahead and leave it and see what happens on pressure test unless anyone says its a really bad idea. Im ok with gambling a bit.

2 - With everything installed on the clutch side, the drum turns free except it has just the slightest hang up or drag at one spot in the rotation. Should I be worried about this? It feels like it's just barely catching something. Maybe oil pump related?

 

[Chris_In_VT]

I did, even bought three cause I was sure I was going to screw one up!

Two more updates:

1 - I think I may have seated the flywheel side seal a bit too deep but not sure. Crank still turns over, not free but doesn't feel like it's in a bind at all just drag from the lip seal. I'm going to go ahead and leave it and see what happens on pressure test unless anyone says its a really bad idea. Im ok with gambling a bit.

2 - With everything installed on the clutch side, the drum turns free except it has just the slightest hang up or drag at one spot in the rotation. Should I be worried about this? It feels like it's just barely catching something. Maybe oil pump related?

On #1 don't worry I'd say. I thought the same thing when I rebuilt my husqared and it was just the seals adding a bit of drag.
#2 I'm not sure about. Remember the small thin washer?

 

[Chris_In_VT]

Ya, I noticed cable was shy of WOT so I changed it out. The air tube was broken, so was wondering if it actually does anything?

It's supposed to help keep the air filter clean but I don't know how running without one would work. Might be fine?

 

[brianpgriset]

On #1 don't worry I'd say. I thought the same thing when I rebuilt my husqared and it was just the seals adding a bit of drag.
#2 I'm not sure about. Remember the small thin washer?

I did, pit it on before that plastic pump driver. I'll just go ahead and pull the clutch drum and clutch since its not much work and find the drag (hopefully).