372xt won't stay running, dies in the cut, hard to start.

[Old2stroke]

Hard starting due to flooding is usually a carb issue, pop-off pressure to low, inlet valve not seating, control lever too high, carb assembled wrong, etc.
If the saw can be adjusted to hold a good sustained idle, you probably don't have any air leaks. What you appear to have is a high speed circuit that won't deliver enough fuel for the saw to pull a load. Any restriction in the fuel delivery path could be the cause, clogged fuel line filter or carb filter, kinked or leaky fuel line, faulty fuel pump, weak impulse, restricted nozzle check valve. You have to remove any limiters on the H screw and back it so far out that the saw 4-strokes when cutting and then you will know there is enough fuel supply and you can lean it down from there. That saw has rpm limiting, so it will be hard to set the H screw for 4-stroking at WOT out of the wood as it will sound the same as the saw running on the limiter. You have to get the high speed set so that it runs crisp and clean when under load in the cut and immediately goes back to 4-stroking when you lift the saw up slightly to remove the load.

 

[quattro.pilot]

My suggestions is sell that saw for what you can get for it and then buy my 365xt
quattro.pilot's 365 x-torq
Burps on the 5th pull, choke off, 2nd pull it's purring like a kitten.

my 2cents fwiw is tear the carb down and refurbish with a walbro kit. take those damn limiters off too while you're in there. Pressure-Vac test too is important for piece of mind.
To block off the rubber carb boot for the purposes of testing you use a cap with ears such that you thread bolts into the design carburetor mounts.

 

[edrrt]

My suggestions is sell that saw for what you can get for it and then buy my 365xt
quattro.pilot's 365 x-torq
Burps on the 5th pull, choke off, 2nd pull it's purring like a kitten.

my 2cents fwiw is tear the carb down and refurbish with a walbro kit. take those damn limiters off too while you're in there. Pressure-Vac test too is important for piece of mind.
To block off the rubber carb boot for the purposes of testing you use a cap with ears such that you thread bolts into the design carburetor mounts.

What are these called and where do you get them? The size needed?

 

[mbrick]

Hi edrrt, I suggest you grab a copy of the factory service manual and read it in entirety and it will answer a lot of the questions you are asking.

 

[edrrt]

Hi edrrt, I suggest you grab a copy of the factory service manual and read it in entirety and it will answer a lot of the questions you are asking.

Does anyone have a PDF copy They would like to share?

 

[mbrick]

Try the 'ask for manual's thread here.
I also googled '372xp service manual' and the first result is a PDF of such. (Not able to post service manual links here per rules)

My second suggestion is to try searching around for information first before asking.

 

[quattro.pilot]

Manuals Lib should be bookmarked by everyone:

Husqvarna 365 x-torq Workshop Manual

 

[edrrt]

Is ther casting marks or numbers on that cylnder anywhere?
Besides the exhaust port, that cylinder is suspiciously clean between the fins for a 275$ saw.

I think it's all OEM?

I actually paid him more than he was asking. I called him as soon as he posted it and already there were three people on their way to his house from considerable distances away. So I offered him more. It's just one of those things you got to make a decision in the moment.

So I guess it's possible he knew something was wrong with it but that wasn't the impression I got.

It's a 2015. I bought it from an old timer who cut firewood with it. He said he'd never done anything to the saw, he just had some health issues and so he wasn't going to be able to cut wood anymore so he was hanging it up.

Everything looks in very good shape hopefully it's something simple. I will try to figure out how Jerry rig something for a vacuum test.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

View attachment 1074799
I think it's all OEM?

I actually paid him more than he was asking. I called him as soon as he posted it and already there were three people on their way to his house from considerable distances away. So I offered him more. It's just one of those things you got to make a decision in the moment.

So I guess it's possible he knew something was wrong with it but that wasn't the impression I got.

It's a 2015. I bought it from an old timer who cut firewood with it. He said he'd never done anything to the saw, he just had some health issues and so he wasn't going to be able to cut wood anymore so he was hanging it up.

Everything looks in very good shape hopefully it's something simple. I will try to figure out how Jerry rig something for a vacuum test.

Yup thats a husqvarna, you'll get it figured out. You got a hell of a good deal.

 

[jenko]

If the exhaust is full of oil it hasn’t just clogged the spark arrestor? I’d start with the basics, dump the fuel and put fresh fuel in at the right ratio, change the plug and clean the spark arrestor. If that doesn’t work try the coil. If it was a vac leak the revs should build up on there own

 

[West Coast Timber Faller]

What is your starting procedure? The high speed adjustment is the most important one, if the saw bogs in the cut, it is NOT ok. Do a search on how to tune a saw

Close both H & L Jets. Open both 1 turn. Start saw, warm up 2 min. Open throttle fast to full, if it stumbles off idle, then catches, open L jet a bit at a time until it responds instantly. Next hold throtle wide open, if if bogs down at high rpm, close H jet until it doesn't. Try a cut into a full bar length log. Don't close H jet to much, saw will run hot.

 

[edrrt]

Close both H & L Jets. Open both 1 turn. Start saw, warm up 2 min. Open throttle fast to full, if it stumbles off idle, then catches, open L jet a bit at a time until it responds instantly. Next hold throtle wide open, if if bogs down at high rpm, close H jet until it doesn't. Try a cut into a full bar length log. Don't close H jet to much, saw will run hot.

The H/ L jets only rotate a half turn max.

The 372xt likely has limiter caps on it?

So I'm not sure you can get it out of adjustment far enough such that it shouldn't stay running?

 

[West Coast Timber Faller]

Use to run 2100 XP SUPER perhaps things have changed

If the exhaust is full of oil it hasn’t just clogged the spark arrestor? I’d start with the basics, dump the fuel and put fresh fuel in at the right ratio, change the plug and clean the spark arrestor. If that doesn’t work try the coil. If it was a vac leak the revs should build up on there own

We took spark arrest screen out first thing. Was always raining in the QCI or it was fire season.

 

[edrrt]

So I got it running. Dumped the fuel out, added fresh fuel. Maxed the carb adjustments clockwise to the limiters as sugested. Started fine. Seems ok but I haven't put it in wood. View attachment 20230418_152549.mp4

I also noticed oil seems to be coming out of the top of the clutch cover. Cleaned the bar and under the clutch cover and it still does it. Any idea why?


I called my local saw shop. They said they'd make sure the carb is adjusted right and it doesn't seem like it has any leaks for $20. If it seems suspicious they said they could vac test and go through it for $60.

I'm prob gonna do that route. I'd like to play with it and try to vac test it myself but I feel like this isn't the saw to risk ruining. They seem VERY unforgiving to having something adjusted wrong.

 

[mbrick]

If you followed feedback from folks in the thread here it would be a strong runner. I wouldn't say it is any more or less forgiving than anything else.

You picked it up so cheap it isn't a huge loss if you pay the shop to work on it. However, I'd never pay someone else to work on my saws, and that money can buy all new rubber bits and a carb rebuild.

 

[SteveSr]

So I got it running. Dumped the fuel out, added fresh fuel. Maxed the carb adjustments clockwise to the limiters as sugested. Started fine. Seems ok but I haven't put it in wood.

The limiters are mainly there to allow the user to lean out the saw at higher elevations where there is less air. If you are cutting near sea level the limiters should be full CCW NOT! CW.

 

[edrrt]

By limiters

The limiters are mainly there to allow the user to lean out the saw at higher elevations where there is less air. If you are cutting near sea level the limiters should be full CCW NOT! CW.

Do you mean the jet screws should be CCW against the limit stops at sea level?

Because I haven't adjusted the limiters themselves.

I added my 30:1 mix I use for milling after it was warmed up, it ran on it fine for the above video. Was starting fine. Went back after it cooled and it won't start again. The richer mix shouldn't keep it from starting cold right? None of my other saws seem to care but maybe the epa saws are touchier?

 

[SteveSr]

By limiters

Do you mean the jet screws should be CCW against the limit stops at sea level?

Correct, assuming that the limiter caps haven't been tampered with previously. It appears that you need to learn how to properly tune this saw before you burn it up. There are plenty of threads on this forum. You also need to determine if your saw has a limited coil as it can make proper tuning more challenging.

I added my 30:1 mix I use for milling after it was warmed up, it ran on it fine for the above video. Was starting fine. Went back after it cooled and it won't start again. The richer mix shouldn't keep it from starting cold right? None of my other saws seem to care but maybe the epa saws are touchier?

How long has your milling mix been sitting around? What kind of container was it stored in? Excess oil may help foul the plug. It will also make the saw run leaner as the oil displaces gasoline. However, this probably won't affect cold starting.