441

[Lightning Performance]

So ones a husqvarna tool and the other a stihl. You can push the crank out the flywheel side with the husqvarna tool the attach the stihl tool to the bar studs and push the crank free from that side.( thats how I did it. )
There's no knock off for the flywheel side case for stihls tool and it was several hundred dollars as I was informed by my dealer.
The stihl tool will also draw the crank back into the case on the pto/clutch side.

So does a threaded piece of pipe. Add a big spacer then add onto your crank threads with a pipe chunk threaded inside and out. One nut two washers and some grease. More spacers or washers keeps things moving along.

It's faster to heat the bearing already in the case and install the crank straight away from the fridge, freezer or a cooler work area. Put the seal in last just be mindful of the bur for the crank key slot. The Husky splitter tool is nice and easy for disassembly of most small engines with a split case design. Tapping out a crank is no big deal with the ends protected. Hammering one in isn't really recommend.

I know you know all this but it's for benefit of others who don't.

 

[flatsfisher]

pretty sure this is not going to be worth fixing. what I would need:

piston/cylinder kit
crank bearings and seals
gaskets- crankcases, base, carb, exhaust
carb kit
air filter
rim sprocket
clutch bearing
chain/sprocket cover and guard (missing)
inner side plate (missing)
annular buffers and stop buffers for AV system
fuel and impulse lines
metal sleeve that goes in carb boot
muffler cooling plate and insulating pad (missing)
all orange plastic (hammered)
air filter cover latches
chain catcher
bar and chain (could use from one of my other saws but only have up to 20")
probably more than this. always is.

fuel tank would work but is beat to hell also
ordered a case splitter and may find out that big end bearing on crank is bad. hard to tell right now.

 

[angelo c]

what do you guys use to split the cases on these saws? none of my dirt bike splitters seem to want to work on this. I read the service manual, but I don't have the specialized Stihl brand tools they reference.

I've used all three types and many times I've used "heat" and a few taps with a hammer and they pop apart. .
If you understand HOW the tools perform their purpose you can easily reproduce a similar method. Many ways to skin a lizard.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

pretty sure this is not going to be worth fixing. what I would need:

piston/cylinder kit
crank bearings and seals
gaskets- crankcases, base, carb, exhaust
carb kit
air filter
rim sprocket
clutch bearing
chain/sprocket cover and guard (missing)
inner side plate (missing)
annular buffers and stop buffers for AV system
fuel and impulse lines
metal sleeve that goes in carb boot
muffler cooling plate and insulating pad (missing)
all orange plastic (hammered)
air filter cover latches
chain catcher
bar and chain (could use from one of my other saws but only have up to 20")
probably more than this. always is.

fuel tank would work but is beat to hell also
ordered a case splitter and may find out that big end bearing on crank is bad. hard to tell right now.

To be honest I saved money going to my dealer for new parts, he was cheaper than EBay.
I have some decent used parts packed away, air filters, clutch drum (same as the 044/ms440 set up), I might have a clutch cover, ( those you can get cheap after market) .
Depends on what you're aiming at, my carburetor one is not the prettiest thing but I use it at work in my saw rotation. The M-tronic is very nice and is all oem , it doesn't rattle around in my truck much ,but its done some multiple felling jobs with me.
You figure out what you want and determine if thats a builder or a parts saw.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I've used all three types and many times I've used "heat" and a few taps with a hammer and they pop apart. .
If you understand HOW the tools perform their purpose you can easily reproduce a similar method. Many ways to skin a lizard.

Naa, that will never work

 

[flatsfisher]

To be honest I saved money going to my dealer for new parts, he was cheaper than EBay.
I have some decent used parts packed away, air filters, clutch drum (same as the 044/ms440 set up), I might have a clutch cover, ( those you can get cheap after market) .
Depends on what you're aiming at, my carburetor one is not the prettiest thing but I use it at work in my saw rotation. The M-tronic is very nice and is all oem , it doesn't rattle around in my truck much ,but its done some multiple felling jobs with me.
You figure out what you want and determine if thats a builder or a parts saw.

not looking for a showpiece, just like my stuff to look decent. actually, with a little elbow grease (and some fine sandpaper) this morning I got the fuel tank/handle looking quite a bit better.

just found out that Hyway makes a nikasil 52mm overbore top end for this saw. I wonder?
http://www.hywayparts.com/product-p/ck000120-01.htm

 

[flatsfisher]

crank and big end bearing are good.

 

[flatsfisher]

this black spot I think is where the remains of the small piece of ring ended up. there was a pile of gritty metal dust packed there. was like a gritty powder mixed with oil.

is the brown color inside the crankcase halves from overheating? or is it normal from the saw running?

 

[maulhead]

this black spot I think is where the remains of the small piece of ring ended up. there was a pile of gritty metal dust packed there. was like a gritty powder mixed with oil.

is the brown color inside the crankcase halves from overheating? or is it normal from the saw running?
View attachment 1019137

Most all used saws look like that inside the crankcase, not from over heating IMO.

 

[angelo c]

this black spot I think is where the remains of the small piece of ring ended up. there was a pile of gritty metal dust packed there. was like a gritty powder mixed with oil.

is the brown color inside the crankcase halves from overheating? or is it normal from the saw running?
View attachment 1019137

The "brown" is normal heat cycling/age...the black stuff is NOT..
It looks like the beginnings of corrosion. That "gritty" stuff is hell on bearings. I'd wanna seal that stuff off somehow

 

[flatsfisher]

so, weeks ago I decided this saw had too many issues to make it worth fixing. couple days ago, I found another old 441 non-runner. the guy said it ran nicely until it didn't. had compression. got it home and no spark. went to look at the coil and when I pulled the spark plug wire out of the channel it had 2 spots cracked or rubbed thru. installed the lead from the 1st one (now my parts supply) and it freakin runs nice.

sealed it up and cleaned it really good. cleaned out the fuel and oil tanks. the annular buffer is gone and the whole powerhead feels loose, so I think the stop buffers may be bad too. will look at those tomorrow. hopefully those can all be changed without disassembling the whole saw. I dis-assembled the first one and these are freakin complicated.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

The buffers are not bad to change.
Pictures?

 

[flatsfisher]

The buffers are not bad to change.
Pictures?

yeah, couldn't wait until tomorrow of course. went out and removed all the AV springs and took the tank loose. apparently, there's 1 annular buffer and 2 stop buffers. all 3 are gone. they look easy to replace. will order some tonight. the OEM ones are kind of a yellowish foam rubber. the aftermarket ones look like black rubber. any downside to the AM ones?

 

[flatsfisher]

well used. came with a decent 24" Stihl bar and chain.

 

[flatsfisher]

some of the plastic from the parts saw slathered in marine plastic restorer. looks better in the pics than in person.

 

[flatsfisher]

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Honestly the am buffers are better than the foam, that being said there's am hd buffers for the MS500i that look similar.

 

[flatsfisher]

oh, also took the stainless-steel muffler off the parts saw and replaced the rust bucket. hell, that was worth what I paid for the donor.

 

[JPCalifornia]

Junk that 441 out and go find the real thing (044 or MS440). There’s no comparison

 

[flatsfisher]

been looking for months. never see one as a non-runner and the running ones that come up occasionally around here are beat and way too much money. these were super cheap and are something to play with.