49SP and 70E Build From Scratch.......or Scratches!!

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What brand of fuel line are you going with?

That reminds me, I should bump Mark's fuel thread for an update.


Hey Chris...I'm trying some line that goes by the name of Excelon it's clear yellow and made by Stens. Supposed to be good with E10...we'll see....I've had good luck with Stens carb kits..so I thought I'd buy a 25' coil.:cheers:
 
Hey Chris...I'm trying some line that goes by the name of Excelon it's clear yellow and made by Stens. Supposed to be good with E10...we'll see....I've had good luck with Stens carb kits..so I thought I'd buy a 25' coil.:cheers:

Excelon is OK stuff. Had some other stuff at the shop, thinking it was the knock off Tygon from Oregon, not so good, but the most recent stuff has been better. Modified Mark had a problem with some also, thinking that was the same stuff.
 
Most of my older Jonsereds are still running the original black line they came with. It holds up real good even to E 10. Hopefully the Excelon will do good...if it doesn't...I will still have plenty left to replace it as needed LOLOL!!!

They are talking E15 here though, soon........
 
Most of my older Jonsereds are still running the original black line they came with. It holds up real good even to E 10. Hopefully the Excelon will do good...if it doesn't...I will still have plenty left to replace it as needed LOLOL!!!

They are talking E15 here though, soon........

Yes, here they passed some gobblygook about E20, and the carmakers are throwing fits. If I was an OPE producer, my lawyers would be working overtime on the only to E10 provisions in the warranty, and I would be telling dealers the day the law goes in effect was your first day of not getting any new equipment for a while.
 
Hey Chris...I'm trying some line that goes by the name of Excelon it's clear yellow and made by Stens. Supposed to be good with E10...we'll see....I've had good luck with Stens carb kits..so I thought I'd buy a 25' coil.:cheers:


Thanks for the info! I'll keep Excelon in mind, I've read good things about other Stens products.

Mark was trying something new, he had a lot of contact with Oregon, IIRC. Like I said I need to bump his thread.
 
Someone posted on here not too long ago that they just reformulated the Tygon line so that it is more resistant to ethanol. A few years ago I got some cheap Tygon look-alike and it turned yellow and rock hard in about 3 months.
 
OK.....Confession time....for those of you following along closely....remember when I installed the NOS piston on the rod of the 70E????? I said the piston did not come with circlips and I used some real good used ones I had. Well now that the saw is all together I found the circlips under the flap in bottom of the piston box.:bang::bang::bang:.......PB was the only one to know this as he was down to the shop just after I found the clips. I was going to just replace them and not say a word......didn't want to admit to folks I'd failed:(. This afternoon I decided to remedy the situation. 35 mins and I tore the saw down, replaced the clips with the new ones, piston is back on and it is now ready to go back together. Man it is sure nice to work on a completely clean saw for once!!!! I figured that since this thread was designed help someone else learn and work on these saws that it is just as important to know what NOT to do as it is know what to do LOLOL!!

Though I believe that the used clips I installed would have worked fine, it is just not worth it to not replace them once I found the new ones.....I am going back to the shop and reassemble the rest of the 70E this evening.

Still waiting on the Tygon...
 
Way to go Robin, ..I have pulled more than one back apart if I find a new or better part. When it comes to working on these beasts I clean them before I ever start working on them and continue to clean as the disassembly continues.I won`t say every saw I work on is as clean as your saws on this thread but I remove and clean every piece that unbolts.
Really nice clean workmanship on your part...
 
Way to go Robin, ..I have pulled more than one back apart if I find a new or better part. When it comes to working on these beasts I clean them before I ever start working on them and continue to clean as the disassembly continues.I won`t say every saw I work on is as clean as your saws on this thread but I remove and clean every piece that unbolts.
Really nice clean workmanship on your part...

Thanks Jerry...This 70E and the 49 twins are as clean as new right now!!!! But you're right, you can't work on dirty stuff and do a good job. Degreased and and blown dry is clean enough usually on a work saw...I don't get this carried away on a pulp saw that needs a new piston...but it still has to be clean enough to do the work correctly. Clean costs too!!!! And it all has to be clean....I've listened to guys arguing about ounces of weight in different powerheads and then easily scrape a half pound of oily sawdust and mung off their saws just to get to the bolts!!! LOL!!!
 
My wife doesn't mind (well.....too much) saw parts in the house as long as they are clean and don't spell like gas & oil.

Finding the circaclips you thought weren't there is a lot better than not finding them when you absolutely need them & they're supposed to be there.


If AS had a Hall Of Fame, I'd nominate this thread.
 
Well guys I am certainly humbled by that endorsement!!! I thank you and am encouraged to continue..........and continue I did!!! Tonight I did something that I haven't done in 22 yrs....spooled up a 70E to full power........I have never run this particular saw but it seems very familiar!!!!! I went to the shop and reassembled the 70E from this afternoons backtracking. I had one peice of fuel line the correct size that I thought was to short but it was perfect, no cutting and sank the filter to the furthest corner of the tank. So I set it up and fueled and oiled her up...I was pumped...well the saw was not...I pulled about 10 times, no-go.....I could see the fuel line through the air box and it had fuel....pulled a few more times..HMMM so I pulled the plug (wet)checked the spark..(none). HMMM Already tested the spark a long time ago..good fire then. The E models of the old Jonsereds were set up the same; coil in the recoil cover and SEM unit under the flywheel with kinda hokey connectors in the case and the recoil cover that made connection when the recoil cover was bolted down. Of course I used the coil that came with this saw and an SEM from a trashed out 66E and these connectors wear from vibration over time so each one ends up like a snowflake, one of a kind. (or two actually) Had to make a spacer from a thin wavy washer to get fire. of course by then she was badly flooded and would fire each pull but then kick back and steal the pull cord back from my fingers violently, eventually pulling the knot from the handle. HMMMM this is sucking now....took the recoil apart and rewound the cord and put the handle back on. I even checked to make sure that the SEM for a 66E was the same for a 70E beacuse it seemed like a timing issue. It was, as I knew the correct SEM. Got this all done and advanced the idle screw (T) and gave her a pull, took right off and from there was able to rough tune it so it would idle and spool to full power but it was dark out so no cutting and fine tuning yet. But It Lives!!!! And starts first pull warm as it should... I am happier now!!!!

Still waiting on Tygon for the twins.....
 
I got the 70E running again today...early...tuned by ear and the checked it with the tach....2,200 idle...10,500 WOT...spec says 2,700 idle and 10,500 WOT....at 2,700 the chain still grabs and spins...so I went with a nice stable idle around 2,200 and all is good. Put her in the wood and it was just like I remembered...good strong pull...real strong actually..considering an 8 pin. I am very happy so far with this rebuild.
However the difference between this 67cc Swedish saw and the other one in my sig is VERY significant...there was not enough room for improvement in the 70E and my intention was to keep the 70E stock anyway.......so there is actually no point in comparing anyway..I like it ...yahoo!!
 
Great work! I really enjoyed this thread. I have a 70E in good condition and a mint 49sp. My 70E is a later model with the cylinder mounted coil and one piece aluminum flywheel. Even with a new clutch spring, the chain will creep above 2,400rpms. The 70E's are not screamers, but they will hold there own. 8 pin rim was standard on them and they do have plenty of torque to pull it.
 
Great work! I really enjoyed this thread. I have a 70E in good condition and a mint 49sp. My 70E is a later model with the cylinder mounted coil and one piece aluminum flywheel. Even with a new clutch spring, the chain will creep above 2,400rpms. The 70E's are not screamers, but they will hold there own. 8 pin rim was standard on them and they do have plenty of torque to pull it.

Albert... good to hear from you, it would appear we have the same saws in common!!!! The thing we have to remember with these saws is that they were head and horns ahead of the compitition of the day.....Homelite and Mac were pitiful by then and Stihl had very little to offer the American public at that time...Husky was still "over there" and had no dealership network here then either. At the time frame of the 49SP and 70E they were absolutely "state of the art""
 
not the only crazy one

I am crazy enough to port a 49, infact I beat you to it! Must be a New England thing. The saws look really nice! Congratulations.

The one I threw together had a pooched top end, I bought it for next to nothing. I put a top I had from another project saw, ported and threw it together I give you a vid of the results here. I could have gone for more but you can hear it is much stronger in the cut now.

Oh my Dad has it now he likes these old saws because he swears they have more power then his 2149.:msp_smile:

Ciao
David

YouTube -
 

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