Thanks Simon, I have one on order.
Mark
Mark
511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
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Great! I hope it fits OK though?
The description is accurate for the spring on my grinder.
Mark
Mark
My emergency "spring" for my 511a:
It works so well that I almost did not replace the spring. Smooth operation supplied by Earth's gravity.
It works so well that I almost did not replace the spring. Smooth operation supplied by Earth's gravity.
I would like to do something like that but space is limited and it is mounted on a table that rotates.
Mark
Mark
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Gone fishing
The learning curve is all fun, make it a long one
The Shooters Apprentice
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I just tried this one two different newer grinders and it did not work on either one of them.
The Shooters Apprentice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Took me a fair bit, but I just finished reading this thread. Lots of good stuff.
I do have one question. I've been using a Oregon 410-120 for a couple years, and just swapped to a 511 copy.
Anyway. I've always used the 10 degree tilt on the bottom of the Oregon and now I'm wondering if I've been doing it wrong. I've always tilted the teeth in towards the center. Is that correct?
I do have one question. I've been using a Oregon 410-120 for a couple years, and just swapped to a 511 copy.
Anyway. I've always used the 10 degree tilt on the bottom of the Oregon and now I'm wondering if I've been doing it wrong. I've always tilted the teeth in towards the center. Is that correct?
This post by Cider helped me a lot. I was having the same issue with the cutters "rising" when setting the chain aginst the stop..... put on the higher pawl and boom! Problem gone! Thanks, Cider!
Hi Colonel428. I initially found that the chain moved slightly as the vice closed, but when I adjusted the vice gap knob to the "0" position I found that removed any slop between the free and clamped position so that problem went away for me.
The pawl issue is a bit tricky to describe. The 'standard' pawl sits low and therefore more horizontally. I found pulling the chain back against it, even gently, actually caused the tooth to rotate slightly around the tip of the pawl and up and away from the vice by a couple of mm. it doesn't totally make sense, but that's what was happening. The taller pawl contacts the chain more vertically and doesn't lift it at all, I can pull the chain back against it easily and there's no vertical movement. I really don't understand the need for two versions of this mechanism, but I haven't tried it with anything smaller than 3/8" chain, perhaps the larger pawl is no good with smaller chains?
I'm still not really sure what the fore and aft vice position adjustment achieves, I'm tempted to engineer a way to lock this in as it is too easy to slip out of position when swivelling the vice. It seems to me that the secret to minimal cutter wastage is the precise repeatability of all angles.
It would also be great if there was a way to dial in equal left and right cutter lengths, but I can't see how to do this. Like many others I reckon there's about a quarter turn difference between the two?
Hi Colonel428. I initially found that the chain moved slightly as the vice closed, but when I adjusted the vice gap knob to the "0" position I found that removed any slop between the free and clamped position so that problem went away for me.
The pawl issue is a bit tricky to describe. The 'standard' pawl sits low and therefore more horizontally. I found pulling the chain back against it, even gently, actually caused the tooth to rotate slightly around the tip of the pawl and up and away from the vice by a couple of mm. it doesn't totally make sense, but that's what was happening. The taller pawl contacts the chain more vertically and doesn't lift it at all, I can pull the chain back against it easily and there's no vertical movement. I really don't understand the need for two versions of this mechanism, but I haven't tried it with anything smaller than 3/8" chain, perhaps the larger pawl is no good with smaller chains?
I'm still not really sure what the fore and aft vice position adjustment achieves, I'm tempted to engineer a way to lock this in as it is too easy to slip out of position when swivelling the vice. It seems to me that the secret to minimal cutter wastage is the precise repeatability of all angles.
It would also be great if there was a way to dial in equal left and right cutter lengths, but I can't see how to do this. Like many others I reckon there's about a quarter turn difference between the two?
Think about how a file would be positioned for the 10° ‘down angle’, then rotate the file/tooth combination so that the file is level.
To me that means tilting the cutters ‘away’ from the center, but people use different terms, whether referring to the cutters or the base of the vise.
Philbert
Using the drill to spin the motor in the other direction will work but you have to be over the "start speed" for the motor to keep going in the opposite direction.
The other alternative is to add a reversing switch to the motor windings. While this is possible, the start wires are pretty fine and working inside the motor can be a bit close.
I did not create the illustration, but I can confirm that it works as I modified my Carlton and no-name grinders using this method. The reddish rocker switch is the reversing switch.
Mark
The other alternative is to add a reversing switch to the motor windings. While this is possible, the start wires are pretty fine and working inside the motor can be a bit close.
I did not create the illustration, but I can confirm that it works as I modified my Carlton and no-name grinders using this method. The reddish rocker switch is the reversing switch.
Mark
i just figured out today how to reverse rotate my new Oregon 520-120. had to install a second switch, but it works. will post some pics and a video maybe of it when i get her put back together,,,,,,,,,if you still need it?
Good info is always welcome
i have everything written down, just need to do a lil video of it,,,,,,,maybe tomorrow, if i have time. that one diagram above is close but it's a little bit off. was enough for me to see it in my head and do it right. finished making the plates today to mount both switches. it came out so nice!!!!!! AND works great!!! old school is almost always better
It is also possible to reverse the rotation by spinning the wheel backawards then hitting the switch. If you are spinning fast enough the run windings will keep the motor running in the opposite direction. Using a drill is an easy way to get it spinning fast enough.
Mark
Mark
Has anyone come up with a copy of what is in post 126 for Ore grinders?
I believe this would completely solve the wandering cutter problem I have.
I believe this would completely solve the wandering cutter problem I have.
