511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?

[Wood Doctor]

I decided to post this, even though it may not be an enhancement or tweak. A logger brought me a 91-link loop of Oregon 60 chain. Now, I know that most of you are unfamiliar with this chain, so perhaps I should describe the loop.

The pitch is about an inch. The gauge is about 0.125". The chain loop weighed at least 25 pounds. He was using it on a large hydraulic buck saw and wanted it sharpened because it seemed a bit dull. He said that it was throwing chips only about 20 feet and it was taking about 20 seconds to get through a 36" dia. Eastern cottonwood log. He wondered if I could touch it up on my Oregon 511a sharpener to improve operation.

Well, all I had was a 1/4" thick grinding wheel, and I figured it really needed a 5/16" thick wheel. However, he had to get back out to the field and Bailey's was out of stock on the 5/16" wheel. So, I said, "Andy, I think I can make do and I'll see if I can modify my 511a to handle the job. "

I went to work. The stop had to be removed and the depth adjusting screw had to be cut way back. Then I widened the drive link squeeze press to handle 1/8" thick drive links (twice the thickness on 063). Luckily, my bench vise and special hand-made mount for the grinder could handle the chain loop's enormous weight. I had to sight the location of each link before dropping the grinding wheel and adjust it several times by hand for each grind. Then I checked the sharpness of each cutter with a magnifying glass and my thumb before moving on. When finished, I found a strong box to drop the chain loop into and carried it back to Andy the next day.

He mounted the sharpened chain onto his hydraulic buck cutter and cut a big log. It now took only ten seconds per pass and chips flew for over 30 feet. Also, he could tell that less pressure was required for each cut. Mission accomplished. BTW, I do not think that any popular grind sharpener with hydraulic assist could have been modified to sharpen this huge chain because of the thick gauge and mass involved.

 

[Philbert]

This probably belongs more in the 'Challenge Chain' thread!

Quite a testament to you and the tool. I know that the 511A had an optional vise for 3/4 pitch harvester chain, but I have never seen or used it.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

This probably belongs more in the 'Challenge Chain' thread!

Quite a testament to you and the tool. I know that the 511A had an optional vise for 3/4 pitch harvester chain, but I have never seen or used it.

Philbert

I noticed that option also, but we elected to try to live without it. This chain may have to be sharpened only a few times a year. A big hydraulic motor drives it. Surprisingly, it can be removed rather easily for servicing. The stop mechanism on the 511a was also easy for me to remove, and widening the vise slot for the cam to squeeze on was rather easy as well.

Handling a chain this size was the real challenge. I made a mark on the vise with a Sharpie to approximate the cutter location as I went from one to the next. Then I zeroed in on the placement, trial and error, slowly creeping up on the final placement. Gloves were a must and the cutters would get hot, of course. I was able to do it all without shutting down the motor, but I had to be careful.

You really have to see a bucking saw like this in action in order to appreciate what it can do. I don't have any pics, unfortunately. But, try to imagine chips flying 30 feet or more out from the chain and cutting through a 3' dia. log in 10 seconds. The chain runs opposite the direction of a typical chain saw. The machine's operator can also pick the log up between cuts and drop it onto a flatbed for hauling to the sawmill. Logging efficiency is practically doubled.

My 5/16" thick grinding wheel finally arrived, ready to be dressed for the next occasion. We may actually see a performance improvement with that wheel and now that I have the hang of it.

 

[Philbert]

Handling a chain this size was the real challenge. I made a mark on the vise with a Sharpie to approximate the cutter location as I went from one to the next. Then I zeroed in on the placement, trial and error, slowly creeping up on the final placement.

Expect photos next time!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Time to Bump this Thread!

Cleaned up some saws, sorted some chains, and, put together a pile of about 15 chains to sharpen. Still not happy with the way the vise on my 511A is gripping drive links, especially smaller chains. Assume that it has to do with the wear on the plate from the locking cam (see also photo in Post# 53):





Shifted the plate over one set of holes (both photos are 'After'):


Really helped. I assume that shifting the plates, and exchanging them front to back, gives me 4 wear positions. If I grind off those 2 alignment nubs, or drill a few extra sets of mounting holes, I can get another dozen or so positions?

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Time to Bump this Thread!

Cleaned up some saws, sorted some chains, and, put together a pile of about 15 chains to sharpen. Still not happy with the way the vise on my 511A is gripping drive links, especially smaller chains. Assume that it has to do with the wear on the plate from the locking cam (see also photo in Post# 53):

View attachment 422330

Shifted the plate over one set of holes (both photos are 'After'):
View attachment 422329

Really helped. I assume that shifting the plates, and exchanging them front to back, gives me 4 wear positions. If I grind off those 2 alignment nubs, or drill a few extra sets of mounting holes, I can get another dozen or so positions?

Philbert

Well you are more energetic than most on these things. I haven't run into this problem with my 511a and the adjustments are rather flexible for chain gauge and tooth size. Exchanging the plates front to back never occurred to me, but I'll keep that in mind. You might also want to check that the plates are dead flat. I think they should be. Over time they could bend ever so slightly.

One simple thing I do is put some tension on the chain with my left hand before locking or lowering the stone. That seems to add sharpening consistency.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Wing Bolt

This was a minor annoyance. I still need to use a hex ('Allen') wrench to change the grinding wheel, but it annoyed me to use a different sized wrench to loosen the cover first, and to tighten it after. Hard to find a 5mm threaded knob at my local hardware store, so I got a slightly longer 5mm bolt, a wing nut, jam nut, and washer, and made this up.

I would use a nicer knob for OEM, but this is pretty simple and it works (original bolt and wing nut/bolt side-by-side). I see this part of the guard left off on many grinders, so it may be a common annoyance.

View attachment 357398View attachment 358349


Philbert

Just throw that cover out, it has no real function.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

We have 3 of them at the shop, one has run enough chains that the center post has about worn though the cam on the lock lever.
As far as I've noticed the actual vise is still fine. It sharpens about as well as the other 2 and one is brand new... well circa 2000, but was NOS and put together 2 weeks ago.

Well you are more energetic than most on these things. I haven't run into this problem with my 511a and the adjustments are rather flexible for chain gauge and tooth size. Exchanging the plates front to back never occurred to me, but I'll keep that in mind. You might also want to check that the plates are dead flat. I think they should be. Over time they could bend ever so slightly.

One simple thing I do is put some tension on the chain with my left hand before locking or lowering the stone. That seems to add sharpening consistency.

 

[Philbert]

I have not kept track, but have run at least a couple hundred chains through mine. Some stuff is bound to wear.

Good news is that that repair parts are available for the Oregon and Tecomec models. And there are so many of these grinders out there, that they still have value 'for parts', even if worn, damaged, or broken.

Philbert

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I have not kept track, but have run at least a couple hundred chains through mine. Some stuff is bound to wear.

Good news is that that repair parts are available for the Oregon and Tecomec models. And there are so many of these grinders out there, that they still have value 'for parts', even if worn, damaged, or broken.

Philbert

If I would guess, that grinder is about 15-20 years old and it has done a lot of grinding. I've never counted, but we do probably 15-20 loops a week on average. For a while some years back the mechanic said he spent at least a day, sometimes two a week just doing chains as that's how many came in each week.

Point being it will last a long time with normal use. They are good machines.

 

[CR888]

The oregon 511ax grinder is such a clever idea l kinda feel bad for owning a copy. l was given a copy over two years ago and it has ground many chains for commercial saw work. lts now getting a little sloppy but the only thing l have replaced is the light globe that blew. l am on the hunt for a ridgy didge Oregon/Tecomech now as l think the design patent owner deserves my money for what is such a clever well designed tool. lt may cost a little more but l believe the quality is worth it and for the future of grinder development its important to me. l have my grinder mounted on the top of a alluminum A frame style step ladder using QuickGrip clamps so l can stand and get my head close to the action and dismantle easily if l need the step ladder. It also means its very portable as long as you have an extension power cord.

 

[Philbert]

l have my grinder mounted on the top of a alluminum A frame style step ladder using QuickGrip clamps so l can stand and get my head close to the action and dismantle easily if l need the step ladder.

Can you post a few photos?

I have mine set up to mount on the steps of a step ladder for portability (height adjustment was a bonus!) - photos above (Page 2).

New models this year: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-oregon-grinders-2015.270287/

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Say, has anyone ever driven a 511a using a DC to AC converter that can be connected to a truck's battery?

I thought about doing this for my logger friends to reduce their hand-sharpening time. I have a portable work bench with a vise for clamping the grinder to it. The idea is to use it out in the woods when we are miles from AC current. It only needs about 500 watts. Any thoughts?

 

[Philbert]

Say, has anyone ever driven a 511a using a DC to AC converter that can be connected to a truck's battery?

Oregon made a few models of 'mini-grinders' that ran off 12 volts, and used a smaller, 4-1/8" diameter wheel. These were recently discontinued, but should still be available.

Northern Tool sells a 'Roughneck' model 12 volt grinder that mounts on the guide bar. I am sure that there are other versions of these available. There are also several versions of the rotary grinders (STIHL, Oregon, Granberg, etc.) that run directly off 12V.

Never used any of these personally, but would be tempted to try one before a large inverter.

I have set up a small generator, doing storm clean up work, and run 511A type grinders in the field. That inspired my step ladder mount!

Philbert

 

[Moparmyway]

Say, has anyone ever driven a 511a using a DC to AC converter that can be connected to a truck's battery?

I thought about doing this for my logger friends to reduce their hand-sharpening time. I have a portable work bench with a vise for clamping the grinder to it. The idea is to use it out in the woods when we are miles from AC current. It only needs about 500 watts. Any thoughts?

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...uous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-66817.html

 

[Wood Doctor]

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...uous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-66817.html

I saw that one and several others. It looks like it might be worth the $45 gamble to try it. My shop-made, knock-down portable bench is also height adjustable, so I can bring the mounted grinder right up to 42" above ground.

A few loggers are very good at hand sharpening, but several are not nearly as skilled and need help with long chains. One kwh should not drag the truck battery down that much and I think I could do three to five long chains within one kwh. Seem reasonable?

 

[Moparmyway]

I saw that one and several others. It looks like it might be worth the $45 gamble to try it. My shop-made, knock-down portable bench is also height adjustable, so I can bring the mounted grinder right up to 42" above ground.

A few loggers are very good at hand sharpening, but several are not nearly as skilled and need help with long chains. One kwh should not drag the truck battery down that much and I think I could do three to five long chains within one kwh. Seem reasonable?

Depends on chain condition ............ I would just run the vehicle for the first 3 (worst) chains, then off the battery for the last one or two ............. if 5 chains were the demand.

One long chain ends up taking a long time if it got rocked or grabbed a spike in the cut

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

That big chain you did, 11bc60 chain is .75 .122 chain. Lot of bigger harvesters use it. I've got a couple bars and chains at the shop.
Here is some against 3/8 chainsaw chain.

 

[Wood Doctor]

That big chain you did, 11bc60 chain is .75 .122 chain. Lot of bigger harvesters use it. I've got a couple bars and chains at the shop.
Here is some against 3/8 chainsaw chain.

View attachment 423033

That looks very similar. This chain loop about wore my arms out moving it from cutter to cutter. The pitch was so big that I had to remove the stop and "sneak up" on the next grind position. Adjusting the vice clamps for the thick gauge was the hardest part of the setup. I believe the 5' loop had to weigh close to 25 pounds. When the cutters get dull, it will still cut through soft trees and throw chips 30 feet, so it often suffers from sharpening neglect. But, the ends of the logs start looking very rough.

The nice thing about the equipment (Prentice, in this case) is that all the logs come out within 4" of each other in length. If all were straight and true, the accuracy would be even better. And, we were able to use the Prentice as a loader to the bunk trailer as well as a bucking cutter. So, it gave our truck picker a break in the action.

 

[Philbert]

Switch Placement

Another 'Oregon-if-you-are-listening' type suggestion: I would like to see the On/Off switch relocated so that it is easier to see. I usually do this by feel when grinding. Would be nice to have it up front, or on the side, where I could clearly see it, even with the grinder head in the full up position.

Philbert