I never stay on one cutter as long as he did in the video, just one quick touch then move on to the next one, if it needs more I go around again, this avoids hardening the cutters and keeps them all the same length.
511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?
- Thread starter Philbert
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Majorpayne
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Do you sharpen for other people or just your own?
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Others even more then my own. And some are in awful condition, abused and barely cut. I've had to pass abused chains thru the grinder 10 times or more. I'm not doing that anymore. For now on, a chain in such condition I will refuse to restore.
Majorpayne
ArboristSite Operative
You don't have to do that with cbn wheels.
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Majorpayne
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That is very generous of you - sending PM with address, etc.
I am not a machinist, and may be a bit clumsy with my dial caliper, but I checked a bunch of wheels (CBN, vitrified, and resinoid) and a few grinders, and this is what I got (maybe some other guys can verify?)
5-3/4 inch Oregon / Tecomec grinder wheels: 0.872" - 0.873" ID (7/8" nominal, * one was 0.878)
Oregon / Tecomec grinder shafts: 0.8705" OD
3/16 inch (nominal) wheel thickness: 0.187" - 0.202", plus thickness of 2 paper wheel blotters, Note that wheel flanges on grinders are also bell-shaped, so bushing does not have to fit flush with wheel. (FYI - CBN plate was 0.167, but bushing would not be used with this wheel)
8 inch Silvey grinder wheels: 1.005" - 1.013" ID (1" nominal, *surprised to see this much variance!)
Silvery RazurSharp II grinder shaft: 1.00" OD
So, I am guessing that a bushing with the following would fit?
0.872" ID
1.00" OD
0.200" width / thickness
Philbert
I’ll make a couple, tighter and looser, Incase something isnt round.
Your dimensions all make sense.
Your dimensions all make sense.
If we really want to get fussy maybe repeat the wheel measurements with a micrometer. Calipers are ok for rough measurements but often are not good to within .005 they are decent for checking overall lengths such as cutter lengths. For best accuracy for thickness a micrometer verified with master gauge blocks would get you a very accurate measurement.
I could do the grinder shaft OD with a micrometer, but don't know how to measure the ID of the grinder wheels with one.
Philbert
Philbert
I have A couple of different sets of I D mics but is all this necessary, you can't hold that close when you pull the lever.
I did buy another 511a today.
I did buy another 511a today.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Nice to have a grinder for each size isn’t it. Lol
And one for the rakers
.Lookin for a Silvey for that.......me and everyone else. LolAnd one for the rakers
You didn't find one yet.
I need to borrow one and just make a bunch of them.
I may make one out of an angle grinder. A tight fit and good stops......I’ve made specialty saws out of them before.......thanks for the push. I just don’t build things sometime. I’ve built lots of things from HT ovens to tensile testers. Dam.....
Seems to me it would be easy enough, can't imagine someone hasn't done it yet.
A good lower speed Dremel such device would be light weight enough. The other thing I've thought about is using a stop beside the we on one of these grinders that would be adjustable. You would still have to manually move the chain just as when you are sharpening, and you could adjust how much you want to take off.
Is it really hard to do, if I had a nice shop I think I would have done it already
.When I did the saw it was to cut subflooring to help my brother. Used a carbide tipped blade ad ground them to neutral and it ate flooring nails. Set it just above the joist. Cut almost to the wall.Seems to me it would be easy enough, can't imagine someone hasn't done it yet.
A good lower speed Dremel such device would be light weight enough. The other thing I've thought about is using a stop beside the we on one of these grinders that would be adjustable. You would still have to manually move the chain just as when you are sharpening, and you could adjust how much you want to take off.
Is it really hard to do, if I had a nice shop I think I would have done it already
With a grinder it could be a wider for strength. Adjustable speed and set the speed with a clip and have a switch for on/off. Slow so it doesn’t burn.....a fine pitch for adjustment.
PM an email or phone number and in a day or so I’ll send a sketch and you can post it and let folks tear it apart for faults.
Do that a couple of times and then build one.
We’ve been real busy at work. I still owe Philbert his shim. I’ve been doing big stuff but there is some smaller stuff coming up tomorrow so I’ll get it done.
