They can sell more units due to failures by not fully or properly informing their customers of how to use their products.
Greed-driven Capitalism-101
550xp sux
- Thread starter MaddBomber
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They can sell more units due to failures by not fully or properly informing their customers of how to use their products.
Greed-driven Capitalism-101
I dont believe you need to match carbs and coils or get updates on the 5 series huskys.
Proof of this is my buddys mark 1 562 that has a coil off his blown up mark 1 550. He simply bolted the 550 coil on it and ran it.
The saw's an animal which starts and idles better than stock hot or cold, it has cut a fair bit of wood since the coil swap. The dealer told us it'll blow up, he said he's not spending another cent on it and running it until it blows. It does seam to rev higher than stock so it might not last as long as it should.
Proof of this is my buddys mark 1 562 that has a coil off his blown up mark 1 550. He simply bolted the 550 coil on it and ran it.
The saw's an animal which starts and idles better than stock hot or cold, it has cut a fair bit of wood since the coil swap. The dealer told us it'll blow up, he said he's not spending another cent on it and running it until it blows. It does seam to rev higher than stock so it might not last as long as it should.
No you don't need to match carbs and coils, it's only a new carb that needs dialing in.
Just for giggles have you checked to make sure the decompression valve isn’t leaking a little bit? Has it actually had a tear down to inspect?
MaddBomber
ArboristSite Operative
I don't think the top end was removed, or inspected... as it isn't mentioned on any shop receipts.
But yes, the decomp has been replaced.
I originally thought it had a vacuum leak, and its brain was compensating by running over-rich. But after passing multiple pressure/vacuum tests hot and cold... Plus, with it occasionally falling flat on its face mid cut at wot...
No idea.
I've had hours worth of conversations with multiple Husqvarna techs about this little saw.
The heartbreaking thing is, everyone knows someone that's had similar issues with a Husqvarna 5 series saw. Can't say that about the 3 series or even the 4 series.
I am
Sorry you are having such issues, I have a 550mk1 here that’s been great, it doesn’t see commercial use, but it’s been fantastic for what it is. 2 562 MK1 both great, both still in use with nothing more than a spark plug now and then.
Its a sad thing to have spent that much for something useless, but you can only fool
With something you need so long.
Husky77
ArboristSite Operative
Sadly it's all going the same as john deer, they dont want you fixing it and wont let you have access to their software. A lot of so called "techs" are not up with computers and cant work on them or know very little. I am not paying for someone else to learn on my saw when they should be experts. This is the way of the world now and everyone is letting it happen, this is a world wide problem, cars trucks tool they want you to use a main dealer. Food, they dont want you growing your own but relying on super markets, the first sign of snow and shelves become empty. It's all planned, but what do I know 
contact husqvarna directly, your issues have been documented during the warranty repairs
I have a friend who is a Saw builder, Machinist and Competition Saw racer.
He recently posted a clip of a 562 Husky saw he got in that had been to the Husky shop before the current owner acquired it. As he said, the Autotune ran it to self ruin 2x now. The 2nd time, it had help from less than quality repairs that the Husky Dealer had done.
To quote Mike " seventeen dollar an hour saw cobblers should stick with fuel lines and pumpy bubbles. ---wtf happened to this industry"
"
"oil pump had never been off so the seal was never changed when they did the top end and it was wet behind the oil pump. flywheel still had the yellow mark intact so that side didnt get removed ---no new seal there--lol---the 3 dollar gasket they didnt have and 24 bucks worth of seals cost a 250 dollar crank and a 160 dollar cyl.kit. with bearings and seals the parts bill is almost half a new one? might be a parts saw. --i wouldnt fix one of these. its the barbie jeep of the husky line--lol"
Mike goes on to tell me directly,
"Customer tells me he bought it from a guy that just got it back from the shop after getting it rebuilt and it ran for a few weeks i guess. i dont feel like these are worth rebuilding if they need a crank. ya got 300 bucks in a crank --bearings & seals for one of these. a complete crankcase or shot block for a lack of a better term in cheaper than the crank & bearings by 40 bucks but you're still building a cheaply made semi crappy saw with a leak prone flexy bottom end casting and ultra light block assembly with a plastic oiler assembly. dam sure wouldn't want to run these down your tag line too fast and bounce off a limb if your climbing with one.---lol---that fancy frame casting will snap above the flywheel like a toothpick if it took a drop."
MaddBomber
ArboristSite Operative
I understand that perspective, and capitalism is definitely greed based. However, in capitalism the market self corrects. An inferior product with a recognized name will eventually lose sales in favor of a superior product. Hence American auto market in the 1980's, or McCullough, or... now Husqvarna. They are bleeding money and all of Electrolux is cutting costs and downsizing. Which is why their Pro saws are now using a majority of foreign sourced parts from Asia.
Juxtapose that with Stihl, where they are absolutely booming. They have recently opened the largest magnesium forge on earth, and every component in their Pro line is made strictly in Europe or the Americas.
Again, it's heartbreaking. I absolutely love my old 2071 and bow down to the 346ne, which literally redefined the 50cc class.
I’ve never had to do that. My standard procedure for all Autotune and Mtronics is start em up, set it on the ground, let it run for at least 60 seconds. That gets them close to being tuned. (I don’t worry about what version the software is). Then I run them. Frequently they may run rough initially, 261Cs may not even idle without dying, but start cutting and pretty quick they tune in. If the Husky isn’t quite right I just cut some bigger pieces, holding it wide open as I do a couple of cuts quickly. I’ve never HAD to drag it down a log.
I want to clarify that I’m always cutting at 5000’ and above, up to 10,000’ so it isn’t like running saws below 1000’.
You are incorrect, it is in the service manual and I learned by experience. I rebuild a lot of 545/550 series saws. It is not that every carb needs to be matched to every coil, it is the software versions have to match. If they don’t match you can have them updated together.
Ridgehiker
ArboristSite Lurker
on a 545 mark 1 i removed a welch plug off the front of the carb and loosened a screw a half turn and it fixed a bad idle and slight stumble, does a mark 2 have the same welch plug?
I don’t even pretend to understand every facet of these Autotune saws, but what would prevent a person from putting a regular carb on it and “deleting” the computer components?
Well thats your experience. I have a huge box of old carbs, I've not had any issues with swapping any over on the countless rebuilds of mk1s and 2s I've done. I think it's all main dealer Bullsh1t to be honest
Got a reference for Husky pro saws being made from mostly chicom parts?
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All Sthil saws was a jinx to me. For one wide and awkward slim them down. I ran only Husqvarna for about 40 years. The Stihls I had back in the 1980 I would say is junk. Over the years people notice my stock pile of firewood. My 2020 550 is a absolute beast.
I have a 550XP (original release), that had always given me problems with starting, especially when hot.
I finally got around to replacing the carb with a Walbro AT-12 (587084806) and it seems to have solved all my issues. Its now my favorite saw.
You also need to update the fuel line to 577504101, as it is routed a bit differently, this might come with the carb (I forget).
There is also a brass throttle bore support ring 585195001 which is needed when upgrading to a newer style carb, it goes in intake boot, the older carbs had this as part of the casting.
You will need to reuse the cutoff switch wires from the old carb.
I did bring it back to the dealer to upgrade the software after I installed the carb myself, I think they only charged $20 or so.
I finally got around to replacing the carb with a Walbro AT-12 (587084806) and it seems to have solved all my issues. Its now my favorite saw.
You also need to update the fuel line to 577504101, as it is routed a bit differently, this might come with the carb (I forget).
There is also a brass throttle bore support ring 585195001 which is needed when upgrading to a newer style carb, it goes in intake boot, the older carbs had this as part of the casting.
You will need to reuse the cutoff switch wires from the old carb.
I did bring it back to the dealer to upgrade the software after I installed the carb myself, I think they only charged $20 or so.
