6-10 distress call

[heviarti]

so, I bough a fuel line for my 105... problem is i had to buy a complete 10 series saw to get it.. $5. i ended up with a 6-10. i decided to try it before i gutted it... and it ran.

I cut with it, and it felt like it was loading up a little, so i figured it for wore out, and said to myself.. ok, i can scrap this. wrong. all the rakers are cut off the chain.so, I sharpened it up, and took it out. it would barely idle, so i thought, ok, i can scrap this, the seals are bad.. wrong again. it had a major vacuum leak... So now the only problem is the bar oiler. so I've got it apart on the kitchen floor right now, fixing it. I can't help it.. if they run, i fix them...

So my bar oiler doesn't work, and so far I see two (possible) problems

one, the manual oiler cylinder had a track cut in it where the oiler rod dismounted, and two there is a screw missing directly in line with the bore.. and i don't know which is the real problem, since my 10-10 book doesn't show the same oiler as a super 6-10..

Little help here?

 

[Stumper]

If I had a scanner I would send you the diagram from my Inertec Manual. The schematic shows a Diaphragm type pump which is stacked vertically-the diaphram is under the pump body. There is a large screw on the edge of the pump (Top) that secures it and a smaller screw more centrally located in the pump body that is the adjustment screw. Parts consist of diaphragm, pump piston, spring, a sleeve and a checkvalve topped by the pump body. There is one screw that installs on the bottom of the stack plus the 2 I already mentioned on the top. The manual section has a spring. O ring, plunger, and cap That fit in the bore-no place for a screw there. I hope this helps.

 

[heviarti]

here's what I see..

 

[Stumper]

Despite the manual's assertion that all models are equipped with the oiler illustrated,- what you have appears totally different-Sorry.

 

[heviarti]

I'm going to plug that bore and hope i'm doing the right thing.. I'm also installing a 10-10 intake gasket whicj gives a pinhole vacuum leak, but that's better than the old one..

 

[ozflea]

No Stumper .... thats the oiling system to the 10 series the grove i recall is meant to be there maybe the pump plunger is sticking in the bore aotu oiler as the plunger was i think a bakelite type disc.
Bob

 

[ozflea]

No Stumper .... thats the oiling system to the 10 series the grove i recall is meant to be there, maybe the pump plunger is sticking in the bore of the auto-oiler as the plunger was i think a bakelite type disc.
Bob

 

[heviarti]

Well, I'm stupid. That threaded hole is where the bolt goes that holds the face on the oiler case. No, the groove isn't supposed to be there.. There were aluminum shavings in the casting on the rod side.

I think i have these 6-10s down to a science, I buy them cheap, then i realize they have a vacuum leak, and fix that. I also open the oiler casting and replace the allen screw that holds the tank to the front of the saw. after this I put it all together, and when i finish tightening it, the fuel tank leaks from the seam. That quits in a few weeks when it varnishes up. Also, since i've been working on the carb, the angle the fuel line sits at is going to come back and bite me. My fuel line will break within two days. It did last time. the only difference between this one and the last one is this one had a bar/chain, and an oiler problem.... and the cylinder isn't quite so worn. now if i could just keep the tanks from leaking and the fuel lines from breaking 6-10s would be easy.

I will say now the oiler feels much more positive.

 

[Stumper]

Heviarti, Try Silicone RTV sealant for eliminating those pinhole leaks and the tank leaks. on the ones that you already reassembled that are leaking---Most hardware stores carry A product in the glue section called SealsAll. It comes in a Yellow and Red tube. It is pretty good general purpose glue but it is absolutely amazing leak stopper. You can wipe dry aleaking gas tank and, while fresh gas is oozing out smear SealsAll over the leak and stop it! Since chainsaws have oil in the gas it is best to wipe dry then wipe with a clean rag soaked with acetone or laquer thinner then apply the goo.

Ozflea, I was looking at the section about the Super 6-10-which claims that all had the same pump -different from the one in Hev's pic(and different fom the othe 10 series saws I guess). I'm no Mac man-just got the big book and try to glean what I can from it.

 

[heviarti]

Yeah, I was wishing for a tube of RTV at about 1:00 in the morning.. Luckily the pinhole is in the carb vacuum supply, and that will bake shut soon enough. Between both sides of the intake spacer, this saw had about a total of one gasket.. the gaskets are so beat up it looked like I pulled a hairball out of the saw. I can hardly believe it was running in that condition.

As to RTV and gasoline, they do not get along well. A relative of mine put the top back on his carb with RTV, and the gasoline ate it. he was pulling little blue strings out of the jets for several hours.

I may try that sealsall. however i'm still going to have to find another fuel line, because if this saw is true to the last one, that line will break soon.

 

[heviarti]

Well, So far the saw does allright. I seem to have gotten the bar oiler working, It runs much better, but still doesn't quite idle. Wish i had a grinder, then i could shave the wide spots off my pocket screwdriver, and adjust it a little bit. It feels too rich. I think the prvious owner richned the mix in time with the intake gaskets deteriorating. Unfortunately I have the carb adjusters in the Rubber tubes.

Chain is awful. Cuts well, but i've never had any chain kick back that much. I sure would like to find the moron who cut the rakers down so far. (not uniformly, either...)

Still no busted fuel line.

 

[Al Smith]

Hey Buck

Tell your uncle to keep an eye on the mail.The chains were shipped today,the ice storm set me back,a bit.

 

[heviarti]

Hey, thanks Al, Here soon if OnthehillinTN doesn't stand up and decide which parts he wants I'll have some two man parts available.

new 6-10 is running good. Still won't Idle on it's own, but i can hold it at an idle with the throttle.
This new one has a floating sprocket

I need to stop buying parts from Stallions. Every time I buy a part, i get a whole saw and it runs. I think he and I are divergent on the term "parts saw".

 

[Lawn Masters]

You must be. but one can NEVER have too many spares on hand(unless they take up all of the house from floor to celing and you cant live in the place no more)

 

[heviarti]

No, se, what I'm saying is I go if for a part, he sells me a "junk saw" and it's operational in generally three hours or less.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Send a few of them "junkers" my way then!

 

[heviarti]

next one is a late 10-10.. needs an ignition switch, and maybe some other work.
I'll trade it for a super pro 60.

Speaking of ignition switch... does anyone have a good diagram of how the 6-10 compression release/kill switch works? seems the one on this new saw doesn't quite work.