Rip Chain for 660 ?

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Thanks, Mark. I think that's what I will do.

So should I just change my file angle from ~ 30° to 10° when looking down from above (i.e., in "plan" view) but otherwise keep everything else the same as when I normally file chains (i.e., keep the file 90° to the bar when viewed from aft in "elevation" view) and use my normal 13/64" diameter files for standard 3/8" FC chain?

FWIW, this "Carmyra" 36" knockoff Alaskan mill I got off Amaz for $60 looks very good. I've never used one before, so I don't know much about them but so far I see nothing to gripe about.

That's it, or adjust the angle over time? Or just keep it at 30' for milling, I don't find the angle makes much difference.
 
That's it, or adjust the angle over time?
OK, thank you for that.
Or just keep it at 30' for milling, I don't find the angle makes much difference.
Interesting. I've heard several people say that. On the other hand, this guy tested various chains and found that full chisel with 0° (i.e., with the cutters filed straight across the bar) did best:

 
OK, thank you for that.

Interesting. I've heard several people say that. On the other hand, this guy tested various chains and found that full chisel with 0° (i.e., with the cutters filed straight across the bar) did best:



I depends on your sharpening skill. One argument for 10 degree is that it is visually above 0 degrees. If you go below 0 by accident, the cutting force on the cutting tooth gets reversed.

I try to keep things very simple. All of my chains end up with 30 degree semi-chisel Stihl chains. Same muscle memory and picture of what the chain should look like, repeated again and again.
 
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