6 lb. Splitting Maul vs. Monster Maul?

[ASEMASTER]

The two best mauls made in my opinion are....

Fiskars 28" Super Splitting Axe with the 4 1/4# head. This maul will easily outsplit any 6# or 8# maul I have seen.

Fiskars 28" Pro Splitting Axe with the 2 1/4# head used 90% of the time. This little number will split anything up to say 20" better than the heavy maul because of the drastic increase in head speed. After 20" or so the weight becomes to your advantage.

With these two lifetime warranty mauls in your arsenal you will be able to split anything than can be split with a maul and never buy another maul, handle, or change a handle again. Prices are $40 and $50.

I also have both axes and will use them over the hyd. spliter but only if stuff splits easy as it saves taking the spliter in to the woods , I lost my first small axe and went out and bought the larger one the same day , found the old one the next day I now have one for buddy's to use when they come over to help. also have a 8# with a steel handle (solid bar in the center with a pipe over the out side this helps with the vibration).

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I have a 15# monster maul and an 8# fiberglass maul. I switch back and forth. It's 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
The big maul is harder to swing, but gets it done in fewer swings.
The trick is to predict how much force it will take to split the piece, and only apply that much effort into the swing. Too much swing, it's wasted energy, too little swing, you have to swing again.

It works best for me to use the Monster Maul on the ones you know will take a few swings, then use the lighter mauls on the easy ones.

I work with another person running a splitter. I keep them with piles of wood to split, and clear the split stuff away for him, then split all the easy stuff by hand, and quarter up the really big stuff. That way the splitter is going nonstop, and I'm busting out the easy stuff by hand.

 

[04ultra]

I have a 15# monster maul and an 8# fiberglass maul. I switch back and forth. It's 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
The big maul is harder to swing, but gets it done in fewer swings.
The trick is to predict how much force it will take to split the piece, and only apply that much effort into the swing. Too much swing, it's wasted energy, too little swing, you have to swing again.

It works best for me to use the Monster Maul on the ones you know will take a few swings, then use the lighter mauls on the easy ones.

I work with another person running a splitter. I keep them with piles of wood to split, and clear the split stuff away for him, then split all the easy stuff by hand, and quarter up the really big stuff. That way the splitter is going nonstop, and I'm busting out the easy stuff by hand.

Now if we could only get you to shovel the snow ........Global cooling is here..........



.

 

[Marc]

I'd echo most of the sentiments in this thread, in that... it all comes down to personal preference. Everyone has different strength, different proportions, different hand-eye coordination (severly lacking in this department myself).

The reason all of the options mentioned so far are still on the market is because each has its place. The only way to find out is to try and see what you like best. And if you don't know anyone withone of the splitters you want to try, buying too many mauls is, at the very least, cheaper than buying too many saws.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Now if we could only get you to shovel the snow ........Global cooling is here..........

Your comment is severely off topic, but I will respond anyway.
Global Climate Change is a theory that suggests the average temperature of the planet is warming due to mans use of fossil fuels and other actions.
No part of the theory says it won't still be colder in the winter than in summer, and nothing even suggests it will stop snowing.
It is an almost paradoxical fact that even as the global average temperature rises, in some places it can get colder.
There can, and will, still be record lows, and highs.
Your comment shows an alarming lack of insight into what is common knowledge.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I bought myself one of those 4lb."Super Splitter" mauls with the flared face about a year ago and since split about 8 cords with it.I find it works better than the old 8 and 6 lb mauls I've used in the past.....maybe it's cause I can generate more swinging speed due to it's light weight....whatever the case,it works well for me.

I want to hear more about this maul.
Does it have moving parts in the head? What's the plastic looking thing around it in the picture, is that packaging?

 

[rtrsam]

I've used monster mauls (steel handle hurts my arms, wrists, hands), don't care for the head shape at all. If "rejected" from a tough piece of hardwood, the steel handle is positively painful to hold onto. I've been using an 8 lb wood handle maul for the past fifteen years or so. the model I have takes a round eye handle (sledge hammer handle), so easy to find a replacement every five or six years (I leave it outside in the Northern California humidity in the winter, and the shaft swells up, then shrinks in the summer so I've got to soak it. A few years of that and the head just starts getting really loose).

I hate fiberglass or the plastic coated steel handles; get them stuck and try to pop the end of the handle to jar the head loose and the handle just flexes and bounces. Not for me.

I find the head shape most important; if the edge is sort of convex (curved bulging slightly outward) it either splits the wood or gets rejected, rarely stuck. Concave heads are more likely to get stuck. Of course, then there's the whole process of having the chunk to be split on solid ground (so it doesn't get the shock absorbing effect of sitting on a pile of sawdut or leaves), evaluating the round, swinging so my splits are in line with the center of the chunk, trying to line up with the windcheck if there is one, etc.

Anyhow, if a couple of healthy roundhouse swings don't break it, I'll flop it on it's side and rip it with the saw. Nice long curly shavings, chain cuts beter with the grain than trying to cut end grain, etc.

I've given this some thought, you can tell...

 

[Wood Doctor]

Terrific Post by rtrsam

I agree with practically all that was said in rtrsam's post, especially the importance of the head shape on a splitting maul. The convex outside profile curve is a definite plus. Concave sticks.

The wood handle I have, however, is not round, and I have been using the same one for years. Please read my post above on reinforcing the handle near the head with wraps of nylon mason line. I also have known other hand wood splitters who use steel wire, about #12 or #14. I find it easier to wrap the mason line. Regardless, I have only destroyed one handle in 30 years after using this wrapping technique. My current hickory maul handle is 20 years old and still going.

And, when I can't split it with the maul, the three-wedges and a 10-lb sledge hammer will split it just about all of the time. On occasion, I have resorted to sawing it rip style, but that is a last resort. Nothing dulls a chain much faster than that.

Great exercise, right rtrsam?

 

[Marc]

Nothing dulls a chain much faster than that.

Sawing roadside wood embedded with sand and salt, and hitting old barbed wire will both do it pretty fast too.

 

[Zodiac45]

As I had mentioned earlier in the post I use an 6lb and a monster but almost always the 6lb due to head speed. I can crack though a good bit of wood with it.
I set up my chopping block with an old ATV tire screwed down on the block. Throw the piece in, the tire helps it stand up, and cushions (slightly) the blow after the split, and the wood will usually come out of the tire due too the split occuring just before the maul cushions down on the tire sidewall. Anybody else use this setup? It's a good bit faster for me and doesn't get me pissed off for sawing an angle when reaching and the wood won't stand :greenchainsaw:

 

[Wood Doctor]

As I had mentioned earlier in the post I use an 6lb and a monster but almost always the 6lb due to head speed. I can crack though a good bit of wood with it.
I set up my chopping block with an old ATV tire screwed down on the block. Throw the piece in, the tire helps it stand up, and cushions (slightly) the blow after the split, and the wood will usually come out of the tire due too the split occuring just before the maul cushions down on the tire sidewall. Anybody else use this setup? It's a good bit faster for me and doesn't get me pissed off for sawing an angle when reaching and the wood won't stand :greenchainsaw:

Can you take and show a Pic of that configuration? I'm having a hard time visualizing it, but it sounds very interesting and well worth trying.

Angle-sawed wood, BTW is a real pain to split. Best to turn it over and clobber the flat side, and that's usually when I run into the most knots--just my luck.

 

[Zodiac45]

Hey Doc,

It's under the snow at the moment (got a plowed snow bank over it) but it's just an old ATV tire off the rim of course and turned on it's side and screwed down too the top of the chopping block round the bottom bead. You just chuck a hunk in the middle and the hieght of the tire holds it upright so there's no need to balance the piece of wood. As you strike it the mall is cushioned a bit by the handle driving onto the rubber (it almost bounces a bit). Anything that won't fit the circumferance of the inside of the tire goes too the splitter anyways. Works well.:greenchainsaw:

 

[AngelofDarkness]

My chopping and splitting weapons.

I also have a 6# and an 8# maul, both have broken handles. I just got the Fiskars axe and I can't stop using it!

 

[Brushwacker]

For me the monster maul works best when there is some difficulty in the splitting. If its extremely difficult I use the biggest saw I have with me or save it for the splitter. I split most of the easy stuff with an wood handled ax.
It seems to me you loose some of the shocking power with fiberglass handles.
It is rare to stick an monster maul in the wood. When axes or the standerd mauls stick in the wood it is extra work getting them out.
I think every sotz monster maul I had broke toward the top off the handle so I would find a piece of metal to fit in the hollow and weld them back up and never break them again.

 

[AngelofDarkness]

My Monster Maul has a solid steel handle. It is not forgiving if you miss a little or if it bounces off a tough round. But sometimes theres nothing like the 12 pounder for busting a stubborn round. Mine came with an unusually blunt edge that wanted to crush the wood fibers, I have ground on it several times and can't seem to get a nice point. And yes, I bent the steel handle on it.


Just picked up the Fiskars axe, and I can't put it down! It works so sweet, almost makes splitting fun!

 

[stihl sawing]

I have the old original heavy monster maul it has split many a cord of wood. I bent the handle on mine years ago when it got run over by the truck. Not as bad as yours though, I enjoy pulling the lever on the huskee maul now.

 

[max2cam]

Fiskar's Splitter?

Can someone tell me more about the Fiskar's splitting axe that works so well they can't put it down? What model is best? Who has the best deal on them? I may have to just get one.

I split most of my wood right on site where I cut it so a lighter hand maul works best. Yesterday for example I sledded my chainsaw and 6 lb maul up my hill and cut down, chunked, then split and piled up wood from 2 dying birch trees. After sawing the splitting exercise feels good. And everything is tidy and finished. Just needs to be hauled in and stacked. The Monster Maul is a beast to lug around in the woods and another plus for the 6 lb.

 

[AngelofDarkness]

Get the Fiskars 4# splitting axe with the unbreakable composite handle, the one shown in my pic. I used it extensively this weekend and it is awesome. You're in WI, Menards carries them for about $30-$40, I think theres a super Menards in Rhinelander.

 

[Stihl088stock]

I must be the only one that prefers the monster maul...Hmmm, I can take three swings with a 6-8 lber or one with the monster maul (mine is 16lbs)..

For me, it is less effort to use the bigger dude and I get a better workout. If I am splitting really small rounds, then I use a smaller 4-6 lber

I second your opionion. I use the old, 16# head, 21# total weight Sotz monster mauls. You have to swing them just like the smaller mauls for any results. Most people don't like the monsters because they think they can drop it onto the wood from 12 inches up....LoL!

It's really momentum that does the splitting, everyone loves to argue that kinetic energy, velocity squared, high school physics stuff... but longer handles give you higher velocities and heavier gives you top momentum, then all you short guys love the 28 inch handles with under 5# heads????

That's just lazy!

Seriously though, pick what is most efficient for your needs. I'm generally splitting knotty stuff. If you're splitting clear woods an axe works fine with no workout required. Anything with a straight blade edge works best. Those old time 12# curved edge mauls are just awful. I use harbor freight's knockoff of gransfors bruk's splitting maul. It's the best 8# for small stuff I've found, straight edge, pick style hande that doesn't fly off (I'm violent) and cheap. Of course it's made in China or India which is the bad side....

 

[max2cam]

Get the Fiskars 4# splitting axe with the unbreakable composite handle, the one shown in my pic. I used it extensively this weekend and it is awesome. You're in WI, Menards carries them for about $30-$40, I think theres a super Menards in Rhinelander.

By coincidence I just might be going to Menards in Superior tomorrow. You guys have convinced me that I need a Fiskar's #4 lb job. I will continue to split by hand as long as I can.

Thanks