7310 Owners, still happy?

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In fact they make 120cc saws but you can't buy them here thanks to the EPA.
Forum member "robinwood" will ship you one from Indonesia for a reasonable price.
Echo CS-1201
That's cool that the make a bigger saw but the specs kind of scare me, only 6.83hp? The stihl 660 is listed at more than that being a 92cc saw. I feel like it should be closer to 8HP for the displacement of the saw.
 
That's cool that the make a bigger saw but the specs kind of scare me, only 6.83hp? The stihl 660 is listed at more than that being a 92cc saw. I feel like it should be closer to 8HP for the displacement of the saw.
They’ve traded a couple hp for torque. Kind of like a diesel truck motor. Might only be 350 hp, but 1500-2000 pounds of torque
 
Echo has a focus on reliability and durability along with evolution of design (rather than revolution), which is a common Japanese philosophy.

None of their saws off the showroom floor will wow experts in terms of speed and power, but that's OK, they have good torque and cut fast enough that most folks won't notice.

I tend to recommend their products to budget sensitive people who just need things to work reliably. They're kinda the Toyota of the chainsaw world to some extent (minus the big sales volume).

In my opinion, their entry level saws are superior to Stihl/Husky entry-level saws. The pro line saws (I think identified by the "X series" term) offer good value and torque, but some of them haven't been updated in a while and the usability features and tech haven't kept up with Stihl/Husky.

It seems they're very focused on electric saw development these days and are slowly backing away from gas in North America. They're also comfortable focusing more on arborists and homeowners than the big saw crowd. I sense the 7310 will be one of their last big pro saw releases and they probably won't pursue anything over the 70cc class for the US market moving forward.
 
They’ve traded a couple hp for torque. Kind of like a diesel truck motor. Might only be 350 hp, but 1500-2000 pounds of torque
That was kind of my first thought but I don't think the math works out for the saw.

Torque=5252 X HP
.................RPM

But real world results is all that really matter and the could be a monster.
 
That was kind of my first thought but I don't think the math works out for the saw.

Torque=5252 X HP
.................RPM

But real world results is all that really matter and the could be a monster.
All that ratio really means is that the torque and horsepower values are the same at 5252 RPM. If an engine has more ft lbs of torque than HP, it will make its maximum horsepower below 5252 RPM. If it makes more horsepower than ft lbs of torque, it will make it above 5252.

Larger saws typically turn fewer RPM and are geared/ported more towards torque. The horsepower gets held back a little bit, say 7HP, and their porting gets them around 5–6 foot pounds of torque rather than 3 or 4 foot pounds on faster 90 cc saws
 
Joe shows the 7310 stock and then ported in graph. @Red97

Here I would be checking with Joe or Kevin @huskihl

Local had one and hated it stock compared to his clone 372. Weight wise and in cut. 15lbs pho dry.

Now Mitch said he got his first 7310 he worked over to out cut his best OE 372 in the cuts. That tells me they take to porting good by right people.


e7310stockported.jpge7310w.jpg
 
Joe shows the 7310 stock and then ported in graph. @Red97

Here I would be checking with Joe or Kevin @huskihl

Local had one and hated it stock compared to his clone 372. Weight wise and in cut. 15lbs pho dry.

Now Mitch said he got his first 7310 he worked over to out cut his best OE 372 in the cuts. That tells me they take to porting good by right people.


View attachment 1125886View attachment 1125887
I had a 7310 on the dyno that was up around 8HP at its peak, but it wasn’t cutting the same speed one of my ported 372s or 572s. But I do think the Echo is built better and will outlast other 70 cc saws
 
Older thread now, but I have found something you have to watch for on the 7310.

When you remove the heat shield to clean or replace the air filter, change the plug, etc., it is possible to get it back in place and snugged down in a way that does not allow the decomp button to pop back out. If you are really careful and mindful of where everything lines up, prolly won't happen. But I managed to do it.

And when and if that happens, it will be flood city and you may start thinking this POS used to start on second or third pull, what the heck happened to it?

I know, I know, who needs a decomp button unless they are in a wheelchair....:D
I can start it without it, but figure if they designed it in, they must have been thinking about saving wear and tear on something in the starting mechanism.

So not really a problem other than operator error, but the clearance is real tight on the decomp button to the heat shield.
 

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