A R E A 51 Again!

[AUSSIE1]

Hold on to that baby Rick heh heh.
Awesome.

The detail you put into your ports, put into your chain and you'll be good to go.
Myself I use only my firewood chain to Manu specs and maybe slightly lower rakers.
Be careful not to lower the rackers too far as they'll cause the chain to bite. A tad at a time.

Good one Rick.

Love that sunset.

 

[scotclayshooter]

Nasty bit of wood at the start, Nearly as much dust as me shooting a clay pigeon:greenchainsaw:

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Tommy, that's the price you pay when you play with Eucalyptus.

Al, I don't think I'll be attempting up cuts any time soon again. BUT!! Practice makes perfect!!!

In the other day's video, the rakers were filed down with 4 strokes. I believe that was too many. Maybe the source of the bucking issue. Yesterday's chain was filed using 2 strokes. I bought a gauge yesterday morning, but when I tried filing over it, it did not file the raker that well. So I tossed the gauge and did it by hand again. Now I understand. Like you said Al, a little goes a long way. And yeah, I bought the cheap raker gauge at the HD.

I think I figured out that super charger sound. I think it's the chain making that noise. But it's weird, because I've never heard the saw make that noise before I was hoping it was from the intake

 

[tdi-rick]

Rick, get a couple of File-O-Plates to suit whatever chains you are using.
They are the best gizmo IMO for setting raker depth as they progressively lower the raker the further back the cutter is filed and are a quick, easy guide for chain sharpening too.

Matt uses them just to set the raker height on his grinder. I use them on Carlton and Oregon, haven't tried it with my Stihl chain yet and i think they work OK with Windsor too. I'll find out soon enough anyway.

 

[J.W Younger]

the 36504 file-o-plate works on all my low profie oregon chain and the 37509 works on lgx /lpx. don't know on the stihl all I have is 1 worn out skip at this time; The thing I like best using the fop is it eliminates the rounding the leading edge step.did I mention I hate filing rakers?

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

I guess it was a trick...

Rick, James Younger Gang, thank you for the info.

I'm going to be taking my chains more seriously. Not race chains, but for fun, at least square (with a good filing system to keep them fresh) and then work chains, fire wood chains with the same detail like Al said.



I've decided to try a mild case of finger ports/boost ports. I don't want to get wild, but after seeing what working the transfers up top did, there is no doubt I have to give finger porting a try.

I'll be running this saw for a few tanks to make sure nothing is wrong. I'll practice on a junk jug first.

 

[J.W Younger]

I read and enjoy all you post Chevy, keepem up

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Muchas Gracias Younger.

The 4th time I've touched the Stratosphere

Thank you for that cool comment.

Rick

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

8 pin and I'm a firm believer in 7 pins now for sure. Especially cutting into knots.

I was tripping in the 1st up cut when it stopped because of the little knot:jawdrop: Knots are crazy strong.

I'll post a 7 pin with the same wood. The chain was chattering. I believe Nathan said that it happens because of the rakers being set too low. I switched to the 18 bar. 1 too many strikes I guess.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i701.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid701.photobucket.com/albums/ww11/CHEVYTOWN/VIDS/D1-11.flv">

Be back later with a cold compression reading.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Cuts well Rick.
Dig that rear handle into your inner thigh for those upper cuts.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Thank you Al. It felt good with the 8 pin, but once I was digging hard, game was over. Will do using the leg. Now that I think about it, I have seen many videos where they do just that.

Frank, it only busted out 191psi. 1 pound gainLOL.

BTW, I got confused with boost ports/finger ports, thinking they were the same thing. I'm going to try some finger ports but after the GTG. Also, widening the transfer port more.

 

[onebad450r]

Just wondering if you have tried squaring up the intake and the exhaust port in the 5100?. The skirts on the piston are so narrow that you cannot come close to getting enough area on either port. I'am not much of a fan on the square ports, but on the 5100. I think that the only way your going to get close to the 65% of the bore, especially on the exhaust side. As there isnot much room for improvemnt over stock just by widening it and trying to keep a look similiar to stock. Don't think that you will have much problems with the rings because the port is so narrow.


Never messed with chainsaws much, but after reading your post, I decided to tear apart my own new 5100. After some measuring, I came up with the conclusion about the area and duration, but thats another story....I'll post some pic's on what I did to mine. Just gotta turn the cylinder down in the lathe to set the deired squish.

Thanks for posting all the pic's and info. If I would not have seen these threads, I would not of had the courage to dig into mine.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

I'm paying it forward Bob!

450, you have no idea how good it feels right now helping you start your porting.

I have plans on milling one day, but using a different machine. Post your work bro, because now you have me fired up again

Here is the stock 5100 port.

Here's what I did to the port. I gave it round sides, not straight walls.

Working the intake. I use the skirt tracks edges that are left from the skirts riding up and down the bore to help port for max width.

Don't forget to gasket match the bottom ports.

Stock duration should be around 155 for both if I remember correctly. But it's been a while. I don't have a stock jug to double check. I raised the exhaust roof a bit and messed with the lower intake some hoping for a bigger charge.

 

[onebad450r]

Thanks for the pic's chevy, What did your final squish and compresion end up at? I have my cylinder chucked up but did not cut anything yet. I still want to be able to run premium pump gas. Is your's still a pump gas build?

Thanks again

Having trouble trying to get pic's uploaded on here...

 

[onebad450r]

Just wondering why the duration is low on this saw. Never messed with saws before, but if this was on a bike it would seem that max power would occur before 7000 rpm. Is it because they don't have a pipe, or the lack of reed valves, low compression?

I'am not after a race saw, just a strong work saw. It would seem to me that the duration should be of the intake should be around 165-168 and exhaust should bearound the 186-188 mark, and the transfers around 128-130 for peak hp in the 9500 rpm range.....Maybe I am way out of line in my thinking, if so, could somebody get me thinking in the right direction.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

450, you're welcome.

Those durations you speak of I believe are for a dirt bike motor (piped).

You should double check my stock numbers in case you do want to change them. Those high exhaust durations would hurt compression on a work saw I would imagine. Great for pipe, but probably not muffler.

The final squish is .020 on mine. .003 gasket.

I'm getting 190 for compression, but I though I swore reading a statement by funkysawman in which he states stockers are between 180-190. I'm going to invest in a different compression tester. Mine does have the schrader valve. Yes, pump gas 91octane mixed with Echo oil @ 40:1

 

[jack-the-ripper]

Chevy, do you have a non limited rev coil in AREA 51? If so, where did you get it & how much $$? After porting mine, it wants to hit the limiter (~ 14.7K)unless your leaning on it. Thanks.

 

[04ultra]

Are you interested in a few loops of 72 CL ???..............I still have some left ....




Hmmmmmmmm........................Might have an extra 50cc pipe laying around for you to try out ..............


.

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

Rip, it has the rev limiter on it. It bounces off crazy too at 1 1/4 turns out on the H!!!! The L I noticed does not like more than 1 turn out no matter what. Those settings seem to be golden for my tuning.

Ultra, How long is that 50cc pipe? I'm starting to build mine and would jump at the chance to check to see if the ATDC number is GOLDEN. My pipe build is slow, but it's going. I've just been having a lot of fun with the 3/8 set up on the 5100. It's vastly different compared to the .325 Very aggressive and I'm having a hard time learning to tame it.

Are CL's square? Gonna go check it out at Oregon's site.

 

[04ultra]

Rip, it has the rev limiter on it. It bounces off crazy too at 1 1/4 turns out on the H!!!! The L I noticed does not like more than 1 turn out no matter what. Those settings seem to be golden for my tuning.

Ultra, How long is that 50cc pipe? I'm starting to build mine and would jump at the chance to check to see if the ATDC number is GOLDEN. My pipe build is slow, but it's going. I've just been having a lot of fun with the 3/8 set up on the 5100. It's vastly different compared to the .325 Very aggressive and I'm having a hard time learning to tame it.

Are CL's square? Gonna go check it out at Oregon's site.

CL is square .............I'll be out in the shop tonite and can send pictures ....