?? about grinding a chain??

[smithie55]

I just bought a Tecomec grinder and I am doing something wrong.
When I grind the tooth that has the face open towards me I get a good grind,
when I turn the chain holder to the same degree in the opposite direction for the opposite tooth, the grinder takes off more tooth. If I adjust the tooth holder back alittle I get a better grind. I'm assuming that once I have selected the proper depth I should be able to get the same grind on all teeth.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance

 

[Lakeside53]

where is your horizontal scale adjustment set? if it isn't at zero, then it needs to be moved to the opposite when you cut the other side. My Stihl USG is set to +15 for the left cutters, and -15 for the right cutters. I can run it at zero, but that messes up the entry angle.


Once you have the length set for one side, you do not need to adjust it for the other.

 

[smithie55]

The Tecomec 136 doesn't have a scale for the horizontal.
It has the grinding wheel angle degree and the tooth angle degree.
I may have to mark it once I have figured out the horizontal.

 

[Vman]

1.....did u adjust the allen screw on the back side of the clamp? u need to loosen the clamp/vise, put your chain in it, tighten the allen screw to take all the slop out (in other words the drivers should sit in the clamp without wiggling and still move freely when pulled through the clamp/vise).

2......when u change from the Right-hand to Left-hand cutters, are u changing the "Tilt" on the vise accordingly?
(i believe Andy is referring to the "vise-tilt" when he mentions the "horizontal" setting...the tecomec manual refers to it as "tilt" if i remember correctly...that may be where the confusion is, and i believe it is 10 degs on the tecomec)

 

[Crofter]

Even when you adjust the chain clamp stop screw and change the vise tilt for left - right, you will not get even length tooth both sides. Sharpen one side and measure cutter length, then adjust the locating pawl knob to give the same length cutter on the other side. If you note the difference you can get to do it without measuring.

 

[Lakeside53]

The Tecomec 136 doesn't have a scale for the horizontal.
It has the grinding wheel angle degree and the tooth angle degree.
I may have to mark it once I have figured out the horizontal.

sorry, I though you had the Orgeon 511 look-a-like version.

 

[Lakeside53]

Even when you adjust the chain clamp stop screw and change the vise tilt for left - right, you will not get even length tooth both sides. Sharpen one side and measure cutter length, then adjust the locating pawl knob to give the same length cutter on the other side. If you note the difference you can get to do it without measuring.

Interesting, and good advise anyhow to check the cutter length, but why does this happen on the 136? is their wheel geometry not dead centered on the chain? or is there always a horizontal offset (like 10 degree etc) requiring this adjustment.

On my grinder I don't have to make any feed screw adjustment left to right. We also have a tec equiv to the 511, and it works without re-adjusting also.


As for the question on horizontal adjustment - the Stihl and the bigger tec grinders have the ability to move the entire clamping assembly in and out form the wheel center. This changes the entry and exit geometry of the grind. Most leave it in the center at 0 offset, but on all current Stihl chains except the RD carbide, it's recommended to move it in and out 15 degrees, and leave the wheel at 40 (that would be "50" on the tec as the scale is inverted).

 

[Crofter]

My Tecomec is supposedly the 511 equivalent; cant remember offhand what its model # is. It seems to make a difference in how far the wheel is worn. I never looked critically at exactly how the geometry effects the difference. The near side tooth corner is considerably further than the hinge side is from the pivot point of the arm for sure. I just dont trust it without resetting.

 

[smithie55]

Thanks for the help ya'll.
I believe I found the additional adjustment that you have to make.
The vise will adjust 10 degrees backwards and forwards. I also found the users manual online. So between your help and the manual I may just be headed in the right direction.
And I don't even own a bong. (anymore)
Only used up half the teeth on one chain to learn this.
FYI for those of you who are going to be getting a chain grinder in the future practice on an old piece of chain first. I supose that would go without saying,
guess I never suposed that.:monkey:

 

[Lakeside53]

Only used up half the teeth on one chain to learn this.
FYI for those of you who are going to be getting a chain grinder in the future practice on an old piece of chain first. I supose that would go without saying,
guess I never suposed that.:monkey:

I deny messing up more than 5 chains on my grinder leaning the subtleties of use It takes little practice, and will vary across chain type. I find chisel grinds nicely both left and right side, but semi-chisel wants to pull a bigger burr when grinding out of the cutter, and takes a lighter touch. Best advise is from Crofter - measure, measure and measure. If it isn't coming out the way you want, you are doing something wrong (obviously)... Took me a while to figure out how exact I had to be with depth and in my case, horizontal adjustment. I got around the grinder profile changing by putting on a diamond wheel. Helped me a lot as it was one less variable, and I don't get stone dust all over the place.

 

[smithie55]

OK.......................
So while grinding, some edges are rolling over.
Does this mean that I am trying to grind away to much material, or am I pushing to hard and fast?
Whats the best angles for round grinding full chisel?
YIKES...................
there is a serious art to this chain grinding
I learned faster with a file then I am with this grinder.

 

[Lakeside53]

OK.......................
So while grinding, some edges are rolling over.
Does this mean that I am trying to grind away to much material, or am I pushing to hard and fast?
Whats the best angles for round grinding full chisel?
YIKES...................
there is a serious art to this chain grinding
I learned faster with a file then I am with this grinder.

Been there... Tiny bites.... with a light touch and a bounce-like action (duty cycle low for cut) and use "cool grind". It's a wax-like material that stops overheating etc.. A little burr is o.k. - just knock if off with a hardwood block. Chipper is MUCH easier to pull a burr than chisel..

On my USG, I leave my wheel at 40 (I think that means 50 on yours as the scale is inverted). I move my horizontal +15 and -15 for the left and right cuts. If you can''t do this, put your wheel in the middle (i.e. at "0") and find the best wheel angle for your chain. Be careful about depth - think of the grinder wheel as 1/2 of a file. The radius of the stone should not quite go "into" the cutter.

Look at a factory chain and try to duplicate the profile. Chisel is about 60 degrees (pronounced hook), and semi-chisel/chipper is about 85 (almost NO hook), at least on Stihl chain.

If all else fails, go to your local saw shop and ask if you can just watch them sharpen...

 

[smithie55]

Thanks Lakeside,
It's starting to come together.

 

[chainsaw1]

Been there... Tiny bites.... with a light touch and a bounce-like action (duty cycle low for cut) and use "cool grind". It's a wax-like material that stops overheating etc.. A little burr is o.k. - just knock if off with a hardwood block. Chipper is MUCH easier to pull a burr than chisel..

On my USG, I leave my wheel at 40 (I think that means 50 on yours as the scale is inverted). I move my horizontal +15 and -15 for the left and right cuts. If you can''t do this, put your wheel in the middle (i.e. at "0") and find the best wheel angle for your chain. Be careful about depth - think of the grinder wheel as 1/2 of a file. The radius of the stone should not quite go "into" the cutter.

Look at a factory chain and try to duplicate the profile. Chisel is about 60 degrees (pronounced hook), and semi-chisel/chipper is about 85 (almost NO hook), at least on Stihl chain.

If all else fails, go to your local saw shop and ask if you can just watch them sharpen...

Hi Andy i am thinking of getting the USG do you think it is worth the extra $ or just go with a MAXX or something?