Adding to the fleet

[tek9tim]

Yup, Timberpig said it about the full-wrap. Those of us on the West Coast can't understand why you'd want a saw without one, and everybody else can't figure out why you would want one. I got trained to fall the tree from one side, not switching sides. Seems if you switched sides, your gunning sights wouldn't line up as you made your backcut exactly the same, that is to say if, in the backcut from the other side, you were gunning for the same target as you gunned for your face, your gunning cut and backcut might not be parallel, because of the change of position. I dunno though. Never switched sides to drop a tree.

As to the 440/460 question, either one is going to rock your world. I love the 044, but it seems the newest 440's have had some problems from the factory, but a little tuning and exhaust mods seem to get it under control. I love the 460. You won't notice the weight difference between the two (I wouldn't say either one is "heavy" though) unless you compare directly, and I don't think the power difference is anything to write home about, but as I made the same choice a couple years ago, I just went for the 460. Definitely get the dual port muffler and rejet. I run a 32" bar on mine, and can bury it fully into a log with no troubles. Most of my experience cutting hardwood was this fall in Louisiana with an 044 running a 32" bar, with a few mods. It cut like mad. I was able to bury it all in with no trouble. Like in my avatar, I'm not sure what kind of tree that was, but only the very tips of my cutters were sticking out of the offside, and it flew right through it. Either saw will meet your needs and then some.

 

[bump_r]

Cool. Thanks for the primer. I guess there's really not much need for it in my case. Bar length is still up in the air, but like mentioned in another thread, I don't (shouldn't) paint myself into a corner of having just one length...

Thanks a again.

 

[bump_r]

Now, if I can just:

get someone to send me a free modded Husky 385 (or 395, I can't tell the difference anyway)

Figure out what oil mix to use

Find an Amsoil distributor

Find out how many "dawgs" I can fit on a saw

Invent to ideal angle, depth and tooth style for "Chainus Ultimatum"

Figure out how that mind reader thing from the off of topic forum works... I can start me weekend!

Just kidding, of course - Thanks one and all for the tips.

 

[bump_r]

Stopped by me favorite Stihl dealer for a meet and greet with a 460. Didn't road-test one but snitched one off the display rack. OMFG! What a horse! Was quoted $799.95 w/ 25" bar and a $24 discound for cash or check (offset credit card fees). Or, I can get a 440 for $729.95 (same % discount for cash,check, I persume). Said he'd give me a case for 1/2 price, too. "Plenty of saws in stock" he says - no ordering. I specifically asked if he had any in a box out back, I HATE display merchanise for some reason. I'm a freak.

Forgot to ask about the "special" muffler - DANG!

BTW - not that it matters a whit, but my dealer is an Amish family business - quality of work, work ethic, honesty, willingness to please the customer is second to none. They fill out all warranty paperwork, record S/N and maintain files on my stuff - they are really thorough. Methinks I need to support them in the near future!

 

[davefr]

Stopped by me favorite Stihl dealer for a meet and greet with a 460. Didn't road-test one but snitched one off the display rack. OMFG! What a horse! Was quoted $799.95 w/ 25" bar and a $24 discound for cash or check (offset credit card fees). Or, I can get a 440 for $729.95 (same % discount for cash,check, I persume). Said he'd give me a case for 1/2 price, too. "Plenty of saws in stock" he says - no ordering. I specifically asked if he had any in a box out back, I HATE display merchanise for some reason. I'm a freak.

Forgot to ask about the "special" muffler - DANG!

BTW - not that it matters a whit, but my dealer is an Amish family business - quality of work, work ethic, honesty, willingness to please the customer is second to none. They fill out all warranty paperwork, record S/N and maintain files on my stuff - they are really thorough. Methinks I need to support them in the near future!

If cost is a concern, I'd throw the MS290 on Ebay and get a MS361 from your Amish Stihl dealer and get it modded. Or get the MS460. Use the MS170 for the small stuff..

I just don't see the point in keeping the MS290. I bet you'll end up grabbing either the MS170 or MS460 95% of the time with the MS290 around to collect dust.

I have a pair of 046's and they're pretty impressive saws.

 

[bump_r]

The cost does not bother me. That bad. This is a "new" hobby of mine, and even with a new saw purchase once in a while, It's still cheaper than my other one. An $800 saw is a bargain compared to a $1,200 set of tires for the Jeep - and I bet the saw has more residual value AND income potential.

I'm afraid you may be right about me reaching for the 170 or the 460, skipping the 290 completely. I'll have to train myself to leave the "big 'un" at home unless I have specific plans for a specific mongo tree any given outing. No need to sell the 290, it doesn't eat much when not in use. I never plan to cut enough wood to justify three saws, but don't tell the wife!

 

[Lakeside53]

but... when you get the 460 stuck in big wood (not that I've ever done that ), good luck on cutting it out with the 170! Always good to have another mid size saw around. Also, which one are you going to lend to the friend you don't want to say no to - the 460? just another reason to have a third, forth...

 

[bump_r]

I learned my lesson with my poulan 2150 - lent it out shortly after I bought it - it never was the same after that. May have been that it was a display saw (hence my aversion to those to this day), may have been buddy's fault, maybe a fluke, I don't know. Just like my truck, or any other tool, I take the stance of "I'll come help you do the work, but you can't take my stuff and do it yourself. Get more free beer that way, anyhow. AND I can make sure the correct fuel mix, chain lube and other issues are addressed. I'm putting some serious (to me) cash into good equipment, and I just don't feel good about risking a freindship over any of it breaking down when they happen to be in posession of it. Their fault, ,my fault, tool's fault, no one's fault. No matter, it would always look suspicious.

Same goes the other way - I don't borrow tools. If I can't afford to buy the tools, rent the tools, improvise in the absense of the tools, or con a buddy into helping me (them running their own tools) I see it as a sign to call in a pro.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm with you. I'll do the work free before lending a saw!

 

[SawTroll]

BTW - I'm one of those guys that uses saw cases pretty religiously, so the benefits to a full-wrap would have to be pretty good to convince me to not case it between uses. I don't think the full-wrap fits in the standard Stihl case.

Maybe a dumb question, but what makes you want to use those cases?
seems like the perfect way to capture moisture in and on the saw to me...

 

[bump_r]

Fair question, one I thought would come up. I just like having the saw in the same condition when I go get it as it was when I put it up. No wasp nests, no dust, no spills or sprays, no "garage stuff", no inadvertant chain contact with unfreindly objects or surfaces, keeps all support equipment (as noted earlier) in a neat "ready to go" package. "Grab and Go", baby! Like I said earlier, when I'm done cutting, I clean, dry, adjust and look-over the saw(s) and clean the cases. Then re-pack it all and take mental inventory - put it all back clean, dry, ready to go. No moisture issues yet. Also, protects the saws from slammin' around the truck bed and protects other things and people from the chain. Seems to keep oil and gas stink and spills down when I have to haul them in the trunk, too. My old Poulan ALWAYS left an oil puddle in the truck - I think that's what first turned me on to using cases - everything else just fell into place.

I realize that my saws aren't "pro-stuff" or anything particularly special, but I am pretty proud of 'em, and want to keep 'em looking as good as I can for as long as I can. "Take care of your tools and they'll take care of you" I guess...

 

[Lakeside53]

Maybe a dumb question, but what makes you want to use those cases?
seems like the perfect way to capture moisture in and on the saw to me...

Hmmm . Never seen a moisture problem due to a case.

1) stops the oily mess from oozing on the floor; 2) keeps the bottom of the saw from getting beat up; 3) keep the RAIN out of the saw in the back of the truck; 4) keep the critters from builoing nests in them... etc etc

I don't usually take the cases with me to a job, but I do put them back into cases (those saw that fit) at the end of the day, or after cleaning.

We sell a LOT of cases to homeowners - it is a great way to store a saw in a residential environment.

 

[bump_r]

OK, me again. I just called my dealer about the muffler mod parts. 1128 140 0801 is the cover, and goes for about $27. The 1128 140 0616 is the entire muffler, and I was quoted $56. Both are good part numbers, dealer-dude didn't flinch about them (I suspected them to be non-U.S. parts and thus somewhat "underground" parts, but this apparently is not the case).

Question is: would adding the $27 cover to my original hardware provide the same end result as installing the entire $56 assembly, or is there an improvement above and beyond retrofitting the cover alone? Thirty clams (plus a couple for gasket...) seems to be a small price to pay if there is, indeed factory power available.

I THINK "SmithEC" stated there is an overall port size improvement by going muffler assembly route - is this the case?

This 'sploaded view and notes offer little help. ...and what's with the right-most assembly? Says its for MS 460 C...

 

[Mr.]

OK, me again. I just called my dealer about the muffler mod parts. 1128 140 0801 is the cover, and goes for about $27. The 1128 140 0616 is the entire muffler, and I was quoted $56. Both are good part numbers, dealer-dude didn't flinch about them (I suspected them to be non-U.S. parts and thus somewhat "underground" parts, but this apparently is not the case).

Question is: would adding the $27 cover to my original hardware provide the same end result as installing the entire $56 assembly, or is there an improvement above and beyond retrofitting the cover alone? Thirty clams (plus a couple for gasket...) seems to be a small price to pay if there is, indeed factory power available.

I THINK "SmithEC" stated there is an overall port size improvement by going muffler assembly route - is this the case?

This 'sploaded view and notes offer little help. ...and what's with the right-most assembly? Says its for MS 460 C...

Just use the cover and bore the hole.

The main problem with cases is that people leave then in the truck, they collect rain, and bad news bears.

I don't use them, but if you saw my saws you would.

Fred

 

[Lakeside53]

Just what Mr. said... but try it first before you bore out anything, you may like it as is. Be sure to adjust the carb...

 

[wagonwheeler]

Case for cases

Maybe a dumb question, but what makes you want to use those cases?
seems like the perfect way to capture moisture in and on the saw to me...

I use cases for storage because of pulverized dust in my barn that gets on/in everything (barn has dirt floor). I keep *all* my portable tools in cases for this reason.

I just use a bar cover, no case, when I take the saws out of the barn. MUCH more compact.

New shop one day...maybe... and cases go on eBay!

Chaser