Adivce needed: Rotting oak Leaning towards house

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Yeah I know, done it before with a GRCS style device.

But I'm consulting here for the side lean wham bam thank you mam drop, it's a cinch too, one cut, all over.

He gave me the criteria for felling the side leaner, others suggested the live high points etc but that's not what I'm here for.

If side rope has clearance this isn't hard, sometimes I feel like taking out a huge ad asking for leaning trees for experimental felling ... I just need a dynamometer to hook up to the side rope to measure forces to prove what I already suspect.
 
I duno, for what a man lift costs to rent I think I'd be doing it that way if I wasn't competent in rigging and pullin stuff. The other option is to have a pro feller look at it. someone that drops semi loads of logs a day gets pretty good at eye ballin 'um and puttin 'um where he wants. Anyhow if you don't have the proper equipment or skills, its best left to a pro. They don't call standing dead timber a widow maker for nothin.
 
With out seeing the whole picture rigging the tree out by tying it off to the larger tree would be the safest method. The rigging could be set from th e ground with a throwline and the tree would be down quickly. However like I said before this requires some knowledge of the tools and equipment and also selecting a proper tie-in place on both the rigging tree and the removal tree. With out that experience, a heavy pull-line, something to pull with and a sharp saw will get the tree down. The danger in this would be the top hanging and breaking off as the tree falls and the chainsaw operator standing underneath admiring the landscape as the top breaks off and comes back at him as he watches the trunk fall over. If you are going to fall the tree from the ground, make sure nothing is in the way of the fall, make sure you have an escape path away from the tree, and make sure whoever is pulling the tree has enough rope to be out of the way also. Short ropes and tall trees make for a bad day.
 
Good news, we got the rotting, leaning tree in question down where we wanted it and didn't have to saw down the large tree in front of it. All in all we Dropped 4 trees, two of them heavy, rotted leaners near property without causing any damage to property, people, or equipment. The other two trees were small and easy.

For the rotten leaner discussed in this thread a hybrid approach incorporating Ekka's side pull technique, pulling high in the tree at 90 degrees CW from the scarf in conjunction with a steel cable a little lower in the tree pulling at about a 30 degree CW from the scarf; Both lines being pulled by vehicles. The 30 degree pull was used to pull the tree off and around a binding tree in front that was going to funnel it towards the house. We kept the 90 degree line taut by moving its vehicle until the tree started to fall. Once the fall started, the 30 degree side line went slack (more in line with the fall) and the 90 degree line stayed taut and controlled the arc of the tree to the ground. I filmed the job, so I may have a video to share in the future. Then again, I may not if I feel it will draw fire from the forum!

Things I didn't like about my work today: I couldn't get either pull lines as taut around the tree as I'd have liked. The loops kept getting snagged on smaller branches and stubs as I tightened the loops up into the trees. They held fine, but I'd like for them to "choke" the tree in a nice, tight circumference. I made the loops by casting a line over the trees, dragging one end of the pull line over a crotch, then by using a running bow line for the rope @ 90 degrees and a thimble for the cable @ 30 degrees. I then pulled the pull side as the loop closed around the tree. Lots of hang-ups on the way up. Advice accepted!
 
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Some branches fell out as the leaner broke free from the tree in front of it, but I was long gone by then. I also was careful to cut on the safest side of the tree to keep the bogies as far aways as possible.

The biggest risk was if the tree would have collapsed on itself. We pulled pretty hard on the top to see if it would break free before beginning cutting and the top didn't break or the tree fall over giving me confidence to cut and drop the thing.
 
Yeah I know, done it before with a GRCS style device.

But I'm consulting here for the side lean wham bam thank you mam drop, it's a cinch too, one cut, all over.

He gave me the criteria for felling the side leaner, others suggested the live high points etc but that's not what I'm here for.

If side rope has clearance this isn't hard, sometimes I feel like taking out a huge ad asking for leaning trees for experimental felling ... I just need a dynamometer to hook up to the side rope to measure forces to prove what I already suspect.

If you are thinking that it takes a lot less to hold a tree on the hinge with a guy rope than many people think, I think you are right.
IMO if there are no shock loads or conflicts it does not require a huge amount of support to hold the tree from the side.
 
Well I'm happy for you, and you see, wasn't that bad.

Your 30 degree rope was your primary pull rope to get it moving, for the amount of turn we were looking for you need that.

Your 90 degree rope kept it on track.

Looking forward to your video, dont let the knockers worry you, lets see what went on.

joesawer, I do think the forces are a lot lower than most people anticipate. The weight of the tree is mainly down the trunk ... however incorrect alignment could result in shock loading as I mentioned in a post earlier.
 

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