Adivce on swappin out motors

[2dogs]

A broken bolt anywhere can really slow you down. On both motors and skidder itself I would use Aero Kroil or PB Blaster (along with a broad punch and a hammer on the bolt heads) before I tried to loosen any bolts, esp exhaust manifold bolts. Heat the bolt if those two tactics don't work. Don't catch the skidder on fire BTW.

 

[bitzer]

Anytime I've snapped a head off of a bolt I usually weld a nut to what is left. The heat sure seems to help get those stubborn sobs out. I will be drenching em in penetrating oil in the hope that I can spin em out.

I'm pretty confident that the switch over should be smooth, but I know I'm going to run into some ****.

 

[northmanlogging]

tranny fluid, best penetrating oil ever...

cut it with acetone and it gets better.

 

[lmbrman]

usually a different cam in the road 4bt, even several different cams in the offroad ones depending on application, might be other differences noticeable or not

 

[bitzer]

usually a different cam in the road 4bt, even several different cams in the offroad ones depending on application, might be other differences noticeable or not

I know its not going to have the low end torque of the industrial engine, but damn I hope it works. My equipment dealer said I will probably really have to wind er up to get er to go, but he didn't see any major issues with getting it to work other than swappin a few external parts. The one I'm getting is out of Withee. I see you are off to the west somewhere.

 

[bitzer]

tranny fluid, best penetrating oil ever...

cut it with acetone and it gets better.

That sounds cheap and easy. I will have to give that a try.

 

[treeslayer2003]

bitz did you compare the bell housing size? I think you can swap with your engine.

 

[bitzer]

bitz did you compare the bell housing size? I think you can swap with your engine.

He is taking it off before I get it. I told him I probably wouldn't need it anyway after talking to my Franklin dealer. That just adds to his scrap pile. I wasn't ever losing coolant and when the machine is warmed up it doesn't smoke. I posted in the "4btswaps.com" forum. So far one guy posted and he said the switch should be fine, but that I should put my injection pump and injectors in it. That and my turbo. I thought about doing that anyway. My injectors are freshly rebuilt and the pump is a year on a rebuild. I figured the fuel supply for what I need would be a little different from the bread truck. I'm hoping to get some input on anyone who may have done something like that before. I'm just worried about my low end. I really hope it doesn't lose too much. There are quite a few threads on going from an off road to and on road engine, just nothing that I saw for the other way around.

 

[2dogs]

tranny fluid, best penetrating oil ever...

cut it with acetone and it gets better.

I have read about using ATF/acetone at a 50/50 mix but I just need to talk more about it first. Ya know 1:1 might cause the bolt to lean seize or it might make too much smoke if I have to heat it. And what ATF should I use? Can I use Ford ATF on a Cummins bolt? I modified the muffler on my Dodge Cummins on a big rock, surely I should run a richer mixture. Can I substitute MEK if I don't have any acetone?

 

[lfnh]

Port the bolt,
burn the Ford ATF in the 7.3,
toss rocks at the muffler - not at the FS campground leaner

 

[northmanlogging]

I have read about using ATF/acetone at a 50/50 mix but I just need to talk more about it first. Ya know 1:1 might cause the bolt to lean seize or it might make too much smoke if I have to heat it. And what ATF should I use? Can I use Ford ATF on a Cummins bolt? I modified the muffler on my Dodge Cummins on a big rock, surely I should run a richer mixture. Can I substitute MEK if I don't have any acetone?

Well, type f seems to be the best, but mercon/dexron seems about the same, just not as stinky... and by all means ignore the warning labels about mixing brands and put as much FORD product on yer dodge as possible, it can only help.

Having modified the Muf on yer little dodge, you should absolutely run 60/40 mix anything less will not smoke nearly enough to make it appear to be a dodge.

And as far as methyl ethel Death, in all seriousness, its use should be avoided for all and every use, its some nasty stuff. Acetone is bad enough, and the trans fluid is pretty nasty too, but the MEK takes the cake. Besides I think acetone is cheaper. I haven't tried denatured alcohol.

 

[lmbrman]

I know its not going to have the low end torque of the industrial engine, but damn I hope it works. My equipment dealer said I will probably really have to wind er up to get er to go, but he didn't see any major issues with getting it to work other than swappin a few external parts. The one I'm getting is out of Withee. I see you are off to the west somewhere.

We are working near Thorpe, which is close to Withee.

-dave

 

[treeslayer2003]

hey bitzer, you get goin on this?

 

[merr6267]

I believe that a good bit of the torque loss that most my see on the road engines vs. Industrial is due to injection timing. An on the road engine will have timing that is a bit more advanced, where an industrial engine is rated at 2400 rpm all day long so the timing is optimized for that rpm. The road engines may have a little more advanced injection timing making them a little lazier down low. There are other factors of course like others have mentioned.

Hope the swap is going ok.