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weights

saw weight is measured by a dry powerhead, that is, side plate cutting dogs, handle, clutch, etc. everything assembled for a working powerhead except mix and oil,
 
i know what u sayin tony ,and agree completly. i was handle new saw the other day.
these two saws [no name] were different power but the powerheads were listed as the same wt. it was easy to feel the difference in wt.[same bar an chain]. that kinda bothers me too . if u cant believe some o what they say,can u believe any of what they say.
 
it was easy to feel the difference in wt

Tony marks,

A lot of variables can account for different weight in different saws of the same powere class. Plastic weighs less than metal etc, that can easily make a big difference. The other thing could be the feel of saw can be deceptive. I find that a 372 with a 20 inch bar feels much lighter than a 357 with a 20 inch bar even though it weighs 1 lb more on paper. A better balanced set up will almost float in your hands it seems. JMHO.

Tony Snyder,

Are you finding drastic differences in published weights and actual weights of powerheads?
 
I played with a few. I found one to weight about a pound more than advertised, then I remembered side cover and bar nut thing I had read on here, and sure enough; thats the way they must have come up with the weight. Maybe the resoning was: no bar and chain, so why should we weight parts that hold the bar and chain on.

I did find one large saw come out about 1/4 pound lighter than advertised.

I do think short squat saws seem light than taller saws.
 
I agree that shorter saws feel lighter than longer ones. For instance the 020AV and the 020AVP. Basically the same saw right? I guess the balance point of the saws handle plays a big part in how heavy( tippy) the saw feels.
 
i agree there are many variables.
for fact ,what really matters more thanwieght to me is how it feels in my hand.im getting ready to recieve a saw thats 14 lbs[solo667] but if its balanced like the small solo i have itll carry alrite.
a case could be made for the exstra wt being an advantage in bucking ,an cutting firewood lengths as the saw shouldnt be forced thru the wood anyway. if i have to force it ,i know somethings wrong.
 
I have been playing around with a 667. I started out it could not be slowed hardwood (hickory)with a 20" bar. I intend to go to an 8 tooth rim and play some more but I haven't been able to get the danged clutch off of it, first one I have had trouble on in a long time. I guess I gotta get hold of a bigger impact, and ya, I'm going clockwise.
 
I guess what I meant by the post on weight is: "that figures don't lie, but liers figure".

When you gotta take the bar side cover and nuts off to make weight, corruption has crept into the manufacturer's sales ad dept. But on the other hand I don't understand why some ad guy would cheat himself out of over a quarter pound either.

It is important because people are shopping weight as much as anything.
 
I have only weighed one saw. It was the ms 460 I got from Mike Rupley. It weighed exactly as advertised with no fluids,or bar and chain. Side cover and bar buts where left on for measurment.
 
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