Aftermarket Cylinder... good and bad... the Truth!

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John .....Did you notice that mahle 460 kit I sent you came USPS.......I hear bad things :heart: about shipping UPS......:laugh:

shark-fin.jpg
 
Evidently needed a transfusion by post 367 or thereabouts and missed a couple of very direct questions on the subject?

No need for you to write a book and make my own eyes bleed and brain twist too much more trying to read or decipher it under such convoluted circumstances. I'm just interested in the facts and the "truth" by anyone who can legitimately offer both in this thread.

Still sorta waiting for that premise to take shape over the typical pissing up a rope and inside comment bulls**t like everyone else already knows the answers and those of us who are asking legit questions are the odd folks out....and trying to keep in context the thread itself is actually a sales pitch buy a member/sponsor to begin with.

So.... (and obviously in the best interests of the community without any agenda)....

> How is the A, B, or C designation established for a given AM top end product, and who does it? Is it a
> tolerance spec, or just an arbitrary and subjective observation? And when does it generally happen in the process?
> And what are the actual differences among the designations?

Answers by anyone who can offer em while I continue scratching my head wondering where the truth and the facts really are in this thread are welcomed.

So far it's all sales wank and opinion....and a coupla pics I offered as examples of what I'd consider a lousy product that was actually endorsed as having good timing numbers, great plating, and should clean up real well according to a couple of participants in this thread.

Ok. Fine.

However...

I didn't buy the kit as a project in and of itself. I just wanted to bolt it onto a 361 without having to take the Dremel to it or buy a Fordam for the upper transfers to simply put the freekin' saw back together.

So is this an "A", "B", or "C" cylinder?

Simple, direct question.

:popcorn:

The manufacturer makes kits and grades them by finish. Most are made to the same port opening, timing, bore size and/or a spec that he got from copying it from another cylinder or an engineer designed it and/or with input from someone. Those kits then get sorted and offered for sale as grade A, B, or even C. Someone grabs it and looks, says its good.. A pile it goes, decent, minor flaws...B pile.... wow.. its a pile of "C"rap. Your dealer then purchase them according to grade and whether they list that quality is up to them. You can bet that kits that are cheap may need help with the finishing (dremel, file, squared up mating surfaces) and normally don't carry a warranty.... Like the one Rikk got. He was told it was B quality and it may need help.. and he answered the call with a very nice write up you all saw. Not that there pure crap, just need a little help and MOST buyers will buy them because they can't afford an OEM part or can't justify it taking dinner off the table. They just want the saw to run as cheap as possible! First try may not be a charm... but most will run out of the box. Return rate is pretty low... you kept yours. By lunch time of the day you called to complain, he was over it.

All depends on who you buy from and if they insist on only good quality. MCW posted that he demanded a better quality after he inspected a bunch of them and testing revealed that some models were junk. He fed that back to them and they conformed or got dumped as a supplier... that simple. Your suppliers should be listening to you by tracking returns, reports of failures or success of happy sawyers. By you not returning the cylinder for a better one or asking for full refund sends the message "YOUR HAPPY".

There are some very good products out there and they cost a little more than dirt, they come with a warranty and are sold by suppliers that stand behind them... I want to make a difference, most places have terrible customer service, products are terrible because they don't demand improvement, money is tight everywhere and they buy cheap just like everybody else wants and does... until you say enough is enough.

I'm not going to judge someone else's product as to its quality and I'll bet, no one else will either except the supplier of said kit. I know that's not what you wanted to hear Pog, the truth sometimes it not very nice and no one will say it for fear of retaliation or embarrassment. That would be like asking Randy to tell you someones else's built saws are junk.... well Randy just might say that... because he's honest he'd say it to there face, not here!

I saw that Greg posted something about his products... GREAT. Were getting somewhere... at least two of us are listening!
 
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The funny thing about AS since this "like" function has been enabled is that you can see who is kissing who's arse and the contradictions stick out like dog's balls :D
 
The funny thing about AS since this "like" function has been enabled is that you can see who is kissing who's arse and the contradictions stick out like dog's balls :D


'Like'

:)

You should probably take your dog in to the vet and get that checked Matt.
 
What are you using to measure your squish? You seemed to have been frugal on parts and a compression gauge can we assume that you are using chicom measuring tools, as well?

I used solder to measure the squish as directed on many threads that I read on here. As for being frugal I don't think so. Every other part I put on this saw has been oem. I did alot of research on am p/c kits before going with the nwp kit that I installed. Now as for the compression gauge, I called my local Mac snap on and Cornwall reps and could not justify spending the amount of money that they wanted for there gauges. Once again if I were using these tools professionally and counting on them day in and day out, I would have ponied up the money for them. Now as for my measuring tools I used a micrometer and a digital caliper. If I would have had the 2 046 cylinders I have now I would have went that route instead, but since I didn't I went this route. But as mentioned before I havent been disappointed with the kit. All I would have wanted is a tighter squish with out having to do any machine work.
 
I used solder to measure the squish as directed on many threads that I read on here. As for being frugal I don't think so. Every other part I put on this saw has been oem. I did alot of research on am p/c kits before going with the nwp kit that I installed. Now as for the compression gauge, I called my local Mac snap on and Cornwall reps and could not justify spending the amount of money that they wanted for there gauges. Once again if I were using these tools professionally and counting on them day in and day out, I would have ponied up the money for them. Now as for my measuring tools I used a micrometer and a digital caliper. If I would have had the 2 046 cylinders I have now I would have went that route instead, but since I didn't I went this route. But as mentioned before I havent been disappointed with the kit. All I would have wanted is a tighter squish with out having to do any machine work.

Keep an eye on ebay for a good gauge. I got the Proto gauge I have for 6 bucks new.
 
The funny thing about AS since this "like" function has been enabled is that you can see who is kissing who's arse and the contradictions stick out like dog's balls :D

I "like" this post but hesitate to kiss your ass.

Especially since you are in Oz and I'm in TN. Long distance relationships never seem to work out. :(
 
The funny thing about AS since this "like" function has been enabled is that you can see who is kissing who's arse and the contradictions stick out like dog's balls :D

:ices_rofl: That is literally the hardest I have laughed at anything on here in a while. My wife is sittin' here doin' this :msp_rolleyes:
 

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