Aftermarket cylinder testers needed, Reduced price for your opinion and comments!

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The first one has port shapes like a 660 cylinder. The second one looks like a big bore and it looks like it's timed more like a red-light cylinder with similar port shapes.

The exhaust port in the second cylinder is very squared-off looking.

Damn you are good. :bowdown:

The first one is a Stihl branded 660 cylinder......I just wondered if anyone would call it. :msp_thumbup:
 
How's that jug look compared to this one?

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I really like the bulge in those lower transfers.
 
Bought a 036/360 Hyway Kit from Henry last week. This kit had superb fit and finish...better than the Mahle that came off the saw. There was less slag and casting material, no seams or cast marks to speak of.

This kit was sent with Caber rings, gasket set, wristpin bearing. A VERY complete kit. I assembled with no base gasket and used Dirko in its place. Squish was .28. Checked compression with assembly oil only and it was 155. I'll be interested what it will end up to be after after it's ran for awhile.

Took the saw out for first time today. Starts and runs VERY well. Idles good and has good power. Was running it rich to help break it in and after only one tank it was picking up. It has a 20 inch bar with Oregon 72LG chain. I could dog in and it would keep pulling and would not stick or dog down.

Overall I am VERY impressed with Hyway kit. I chose this kit over a Meteor because I purchased a Hyway piston to put in a 044 I have that I did some porting on and was impressed with its quality. So far I have had NO problems with this saw and its a daily work saw.

I will try to give some imput on a 365 Husky Tecomec kit I just recieved. I was totally suprised with the weight of this kit. The jug is quite heavy and dense. The casting is good but I don't feel the finish is as good as the Hyway kit I just used. Port shape and size is very good and consistant. Very little casting slag any where and only a slight seam in the ports. It appears to be a good quality kit.

I will try to give some measurements of squish and compression reading as I come to them. I will also post pic's of the kit as it came....If I can figure out how.

From what I see from these two kits there is a great improvement in quality from what I've seen in the past. I want to thank Henry for working hard to improve quality and supply quality AM products for all our CAD addictions.:clap:
 
Need some tester still!

Bunch of guys responded and have received PMs from me. I still have some models available at this reduced price. Only thing is most of you have asked for the same model and I'm only carrying one of some models. Need some others to respond with some different size models.
 
subscribed and PMed... I've got tons of torched saws needing a revival P&C. Glad to do the work and post pics!
 
Confessing that I have never fully rebuilt a 2-cycle engine. I saw and understand the "freeport" on the Mako 066B. Looks to me as if that could be cured with thicker or additional gaskets below the cylinder. But that would decrease the compression. Wonder if that "freeport " is deliberate? If so, why?
 
Confessing that I have never fully rebuilt a 2-cycle engine. I saw and understand the "freeport" on the Mako 066B. Looks to me as if that could be cured with thicker or additional gaskets below the cylinder. But that would decrease the compression. Wonder if that "freeport " is deliberate? If so, why?

Not deliberate but you have to think about your fuel path. Excessive free porting can cut the fuel charge in the crankcase by letting it out the exhaust, thus cutting the fuel charge to the top end an possibly reducing lubrication too... Right?

That free porting problem can be solved by the manufacturer adding some length to the piston skirt. In fact if they wanted to sell more they would add extra to the skirt so that builders can feel free to shave the cylinder and drop it for more power without free porting.
 
Not deliberate but you have to think about your fuel path. Excessive free porting can cut the fuel charge in the crankcase by letting it out the exhaust, thus cutting the fuel charge to the top end an possibly reducing lubrication too... Right?

That free porting problem can be solved by the manufacturer adding some length to the piston skirt. In fact if they wanted to sell more they would add extra to the skirt so that builders can feel free to shave the cylinder and drop it for more power without free porting.

Adding length to the piston will make it hit the crankcase on the big bore or when putting it on an 064 case. I've used a 395xp piston in those type jugs before but the squish has to be cut and a spacer plate has to be installed under the jug. Not to mention the mods to the piston and a different wrist pin bearing.

That Mako jug will have to be redesigned in order to be a bolt on product.
 
Adding length to the piston will make it hit the crankcase on the big bore or when putting it on an 064 case. I've used a 395xp piston in those type jugs before but the squish has to be cut and a spacer plate has to be installed under the jug. Not to mention the mods to the piston and a different wrist pin bearing.

That Mako jug will have to be redesigned in order to be a bolt on product.

Thanks for clearing that up randy!

As for the other P&C combos has anyone done a ms260 or 026 out of the AM cylinders. I've tried a few off ebay and have had so-so results. Wondering what the responses are for the 026's since I have 5 skeletons sitting here ready for rebuild.
 
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Need some tester still!

Bunch of guys responded and have received PMs from me. I still have some models available at this reduced price. Only thing is most of you have asked for the same model and I'm only carrying one of some models. Need some others to respond with some different size models.

I need to rebuild a Husky 55 of mine.

I'm also torn between a Meteor 066 kit and trying the NWP BB kit?
 
Well here is more info on the Tecomec Husqvarna 365 Kit rebuild...but first. I did a pressure and vacume test to see what was going on with the saw...passed with flying colors on both. Next checked carb and adjustments. A carb kit had been put in about six months ago, that all checked out. Sparkplug good...had changed out to see if it would help. It did not. I could not see or find and reason for it irratic behavior.

To start more from the beginning, this saw is a 2004, Huaqvarna 365, Walbro HD carb,24 bar & Oregon 72LG chain. It is used primarally for ROW work or removals for a line clearance crew. It has been a headache since new...running very irratic and not consistant. Only thing ever done was a carb kit and an impulse line that was cracked. This helped the saw but still not up to what it should be. Thus the new Piston and cylinder.

Here is what I found when I removed the muffler...the piston was installed backwards from the factory. Anyone else ever run into this? I'm really suprised the saw lasted as long as it did and didn't grenade.

Musta been a Monday or a Friday build....
 

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