Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Good for you Randy. You never know about stuff until laying eyes.....and measuring tools on it.
:msp_biggrin:
I like turtles.
Well said and very true. I'm willing to #### can a few to find the good stuff.
AM Piston Kit Review
- Thread starter Adirondackstihl
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Good for you Randy. You never know about stuff until laying eyes.....and measuring tools on it.
:msp_biggrin:
I like turtles.
Well said and very true. I'm willing to #### can a few to find the good stuff.
What it comes down to is keeping the general public from being spoon-fed garbage info and parts.
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
Small End Rod Width: 0.512" / 13.00mm
Below are the dimensions between inside faces of pin bosses
OEM Piston: 0.5265" / 13.37mm
India #1: 0.560" / 14.23mm
India #2: 0.553" / 14.05mm
I have avoided Golf pistons becasue of the bad rep on this forum. Looks like it is deserved.
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Thanks.....well as you can see the stock OEM unit has a running clearance of .0015" ......the AM ones have .048" and 0.041" I consider this clearance crucial in these small motors as it determines where exactly the con rod runs on the crank journal between the counter weights. and how in alignment the rod stays. The aftermarket 49SP piston from Northwoods (VEC) was much worse it had nearly .200" running clearance...I machined the bosses and fit a set of thrust washers and upper con rod bearing from a 52/52E Jonsereds to bring this measurement into some form of spec. Otherwise that piston was quite nice...measured perfect...nice fit and finish.. not to derail your thread.
watsonr
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So your saying the VEC piston was even worse? Answer that question and I'll tell you something else about India #2 :msp_smile:
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
opcorn:
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
He was saying it was worse in one way but better in others.......
There seems to be a lot of ADHD on this forum...
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
:bang: :cool2: :taped: :msp_smile:
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just put 3 VEC pistons in 026s last week and 2 of the 3 had to have the bosses sanded so the pins would fit. Rest of the piston was fine but added a lot of work. I will go back to Meteor and pay the extra $10/ea.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Meteor is the best I've found so far.
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Yes the VEC piston was much worse in this respect.....other than that the piston was very good.....I did a thread a while back and built a saw just to test this piston in...I didn't change anything other than the wristpin clearance issue....used the suppied ring, wristpin and clips.....It does not have massive hrs on it yet but bucked an 8 cord pile of tree length maple/ash into 16" firewood....it hasn't failed yet. I notified Northwoods about the issue and they said they would mention it to the mfg.....maybe the next run will be better...
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I agree......however Northwoods/VEC are the only ones to ever even attempt to build an AM piston to fit the 49SP.....I am greatful they they did....but would be even more greatful if they would take care of this problem...
There's the double-edged sword right there. The companies willing to take on aftermarket replacement parts for older or less popular models can't afford to put the quality into those parts, and people here need to remember that instead of just whining about it. There's a reason Meteor doesn't make a replacement piston for some models and VEC or Golf do, like the Jonsered 920. Most people aren't going to take the time to rebuild a blown up 920, plain and simple.
roostersgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
My experiences have been a little bit different with both the 49mm Golf and 49
mm VEC pistons I've used. The Caber rings fit nicely and there was very little "flash / slag" on the undersides of them. The bosses were a little thicker than OEM, but everything installed as they should have and functioned well. I haven't had any problems using them yet and will likely continue, until Meteor starts making them for 039's. The meteors in other sizes I've used have all been really nice looking and I trust the good experiences many of the respected members here have had using them.
My current project, a 039 chrome lined cylinder kit of unknown make, has a decent looking piston in it. I've already ordered the Cabers from the Greek guy and am waiting their arrival to finish the build. Pictures when they arrive.
mm VEC pistons I've used. The Caber rings fit nicely and there was very little "flash / slag" on the undersides of them. The bosses were a little thicker than OEM, but everything installed as they should have and functioned well. I haven't had any problems using them yet and will likely continue, until Meteor starts making them for 039's. The meteors in other sizes I've used have all been really nice looking and I trust the good experiences many of the respected members here have had using them.
My current project, a 039 chrome lined cylinder kit of unknown make, has a decent looking piston in it. I've already ordered the Cabers from the Greek guy and am waiting their arrival to finish the build. Pictures when they arrive.
watsonr
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I agree.. the less popular sizes in current models are also some that aftermarket manufactures won't touch.
Naked Arborist
Hack from way back.
I think both of them are piss poor in quality and finish. Here is why I am such a tough sell on most AM parts although I do use them.
After building Super Stock V8 motors, Street/Strip motors and claimer motors everything needs to be inspected and/or massaged in one way or another.
SS motors always require the ut most time and precision. It is just the nature of the build for that class. Most of what goes into them is damn near OEM stock and needs to be massaged and blue printed. When you can stray from OEM only the best will do. These motors are asked to do the impossible every single time. No warranties or guaranties here.
This applies to most race motors in general. This is why I got out years ago. If I can not tune and test it I will not stand behind it. Find a good reputable builder is where to spend your money.
Street/Strip is where I refer to parts as a grey area. You don't always get what you pay for and the best is not usually in the budget. They do need to be massaged but far less than the SS builds. With that being said always order two of everything and keep the best stuff send the rest back. The money spent on shipping is dollars well spent down the road-a-piece. Spend some now or spend more later plus your labor again, again, and again. See my point? Good.
Now comes the claimer motors and I would not use any of those piston in one of them either. These are built to be cheap and sold cheap. The difference between buying a re-manufactured motor and a rebuilt one. Some days you would be far better off with the cheap bone stock stuff rebuilt. I have seen and replaced WAY too many re-manufactured motors that would be best used as a paperweight because of quality control.
I would like to see how the full spectrum pans out when these pistons are fully measured and then I could draw a much more complete picture of how long they might last. Casting flash does not bother me if it does not come loose. That is all in the eye of the inspector for final fit and assembly. I you/we are the bottom line on that.
If the piston are "fully specked out" I dought the final deciding factor will be what they look like to the naked eye.
It always takes the efforts of a few to educate the masses.
PS
Q: If the connecting rod floats around that much how long does it take for the con rod to hit the crank, smack the piston wrist pin walls, egg the needles upper/lower, round out the rod bores top and bottom?
A: On start up or it might last till you goose the throttle.
After building Super Stock V8 motors, Street/Strip motors and claimer motors everything needs to be inspected and/or massaged in one way or another.
SS motors always require the ut most time and precision. It is just the nature of the build for that class. Most of what goes into them is damn near OEM stock and needs to be massaged and blue printed. When you can stray from OEM only the best will do. These motors are asked to do the impossible every single time. No warranties or guaranties here.
This applies to most race motors in general. This is why I got out years ago. If I can not tune and test it I will not stand behind it. Find a good reputable builder is where to spend your money.
Street/Strip is where I refer to parts as a grey area. You don't always get what you pay for and the best is not usually in the budget. They do need to be massaged but far less than the SS builds. With that being said always order two of everything and keep the best stuff send the rest back. The money spent on shipping is dollars well spent down the road-a-piece. Spend some now or spend more later plus your labor again, again, and again. See my point? Good.
Now comes the claimer motors and I would not use any of those piston in one of them either. These are built to be cheap and sold cheap. The difference between buying a re-manufactured motor and a rebuilt one. Some days you would be far better off with the cheap bone stock stuff rebuilt. I have seen and replaced WAY too many re-manufactured motors that would be best used as a paperweight because of quality control.
I would like to see how the full spectrum pans out when these pistons are fully measured and then I could draw a much more complete picture of how long they might last. Casting flash does not bother me if it does not come loose. That is all in the eye of the inspector for final fit and assembly. I you/we are the bottom line on that.
If the piston are "fully specked out" I dought the final deciding factor will be what they look like to the naked eye.
It always takes the efforts of a few to educate the masses.
PS
Q: If the connecting rod floats around that much how long does it take for the con rod to hit the crank, smack the piston wrist pin walls, egg the needles upper/lower, round out the rod bores top and bottom?
A: On start up or it might last till you goose the throttle.
roostersgt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm certainly not disagreeing with you. I know you usually get what you pay for and AM stuff is usually much lower in quality than OEM. I have always had good luck running the AM pistons when mated with the Caber rings. Haven't had a piston failure yet, knock on wood. I'll get some piston pictures and some measurements up tomorrow. Not that it would prevent me from using it if deemed "unacceptable", by some here. I have to use it because OEM is ridiculous and Meteor doesn't make them.
I've built up a "hot" boat and a few "rods" myself.
I've built up a "hot" boat and a few "rods" myself.
Naked Arborist
Hack from way back.
NICE! We all have to go down that lonely road of should I ? OK, then lets do what we can and hope for the best! It's not always a disaster and sometimes a pleasant surprise in the end.
