Amsoil Saber Expiration

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I once opend previously unopened Bottle of Valvoline TurboV 15w40....it was labelled as API SH/CD.....so most probablly bottle was from late 80s....early 90s era....

Inside oil was as black as it would be used oil....

Just wanted to say that oil (chemistry) could go "rancid"....

turboV.jpg
 
I will add I have ran into old oil anomalies in the past. A 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 full synthetic that was who knows how old, had jelly like globs on the inside bottom of jug.

I shook it up and no dice... same jelly blobs..... not going on my toast! I mean engine..... yeah, that's better!
 
I love oil treads, everyone has a different opinion and no one ever has oil related issues lol.
Saws are very forgiving when it comes to premix oils. Just about any premix oil or straight wt 30 oil works fine as long as you're not running the saw lean and working it hard.

My saws get left over dirt bike premix oil without a second thought or issue. I'd never run husky or stihl chainsaw premix in a dirt bike tho, those oils are not good enough for bikes, they're designed not smoke or stink not to protect the motor.
The FD standard was designed around bikes. I would have no problem running an FD oil in a bike.
I wouldn't run Stihl USA oil in anything..
 
I will add I have ran into old oil anomalies in the past. A 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 full synthetic that was who knows how old, had jelly like globs on the inside bottom of jug.

I shook it up and no dice... same jelly blobs..... not going on my toast! I mean engine..... yeah, that's better!
Obviously if your seeing something like that I wouldn't use it. I just never have.
He'll, I'm still using WW2 surplus gun powder and it's perfectly fine.
 
I got a few bottles of old oil i have been using up in my lawn boy i am going to save the cans. Most says BIA, TCW,TCW1.
I got a few round plastic bottles of Homelite 16:1 oil i have been using at 32:1 it stinks and smokes a bit but works fine on my trimmer and blower.
 
I will add I have ran into old oil anomalies in the past. A 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 full synthetic that was who knows how old, had jelly like globs on the inside bottom of jug.

I shook it up and no dice... same jelly blobs..... not going on my toast! I mean engine..... yeah, that's better!
Its good on toast.
 
please excuse me being a dumb newbie . i got a stihl 400c last winter for firewood for our wood boiler . i also have a stihl fs56 and a harbor freight gas auger and those are currently my only 2 cycle tools . going to the amsoil site i can get 2 gallons of saber delivered to my door for $120 including $10 for their 6 months club thingy for free shipping and a lower price on the saber . i'll be using ethanol free gas ......

anyhow , i plan on mixing 50:1 and it will probably be 10-15 years before i open the 2nd gallon . any need to be concerned about that if i shake it up every year ? i don't mind buying stuff like this in bulk (when i can find or finagle a good deal) so i don't have to worry about getting them later when they cost more or aren't available . I've got way to many diablo 7 1/4 blades and more than a few 10 inchers , hahahaha .

thanks , jeff
 
I've run 4-stroke engine oil that was over 35 years old. Doubtful it will be an issue.

50:1 is FAR richer than you need to run that stuff. I run it in my paramotor SUPER rich at 66:1. In hand-held equipment, 80:1 is as rich as I'd go. All my 2-stroke equipment gets Saber mixed at 100:1. Been doing that over 10 years.
 
I got some of this stuff recently... 1oz will treat 150 gallons of OIL... not mix, OIL. Works great and you can buy 1/4 oz directly from the site. Just wear gloves. It's a no joke petroleum dye. I added 1cc to a quart of motul oil, and that's way overkill just because I didn't have a good way to measure a smaller amount. Here's the manufacturer's site....

 
i,ve seen that . i find it curious . folks talk about dino juice should not a a shelf life in human lifespan terms . saber is said to be %100 synthetic . but in my official armchair research , FWIU , all synthetic oils actually have a highly refined dino juice base ........ it can be hard to define advertising from truth sometimes .
 
Engine oils go bad over time, it forms a sludge and additives can seperate, it’s a proven fact, not least on this thread by multiple members, it’s everywhere online too, it’s not up for debate and those comparing it to food boggles the mind…How fast it does and to what extent depends on how it’s been stored. If you’re running old oil that has separated or began to form a sludge, shaking it will not solve the issue and you’re asking for trouble. Let it go, it’s $10-$15 you bunch of tight fisted gits 😂

IMG_0503.jpeg
 
Honey (What wine goes well with honey?) stands out in the realm of natural sweeteners due to its remarkable shelf life. Its longevity is attributed to the high sugar content, which creates an environment that resists spoilage. Additionally, the low moisture content in honey inhibits bacterial growth, allowing honey to remain stable and consumable for an extended period. It's not uncommon to find honey that has preserved its quality over years or even decades, provided that it has been stored properly in a sealed container away from damp conditions.

Historical records and archaeological findings have documented the preservation of honey in pots, even in ancient tombs, remaining unspoiled after thousands of years. While household honey might not need to withstand the tests of millennia, knowing that it has an extraordinarily long shelf life can offer convenience and reduce waste. Honey's durability is a testament to its natural preservative properties, which are enhanced when kept in the right conditions — cool, dark, and with a tightly sealed containter.

However, honey can undergo changes in texture and color, such as crystallization, which is often mistaken as a sign of spoilage. These transformations do not signify that the honey has gone bad. In fact, crystallized honey is still safe to eat; it simply requires gentle warming to return to its original, more fluid state. Honey may also ferment if it contains too much moisture, something that is very rare in commercial honey but can be a consideration for raw varieties. These cases are exceptional, and in general practice, honey can be relied upon as a durable and stable sweetener.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top