AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
I'll check it and see what's happening. I applied some air to make sure then lines were free of debris and the vent line immediately came off when pressure was applied from outward in to the tank.
And, It Begins-- My Official Scrap 562XP Rebuild Thread
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I'll check it and see what's happening. I applied some air to make sure then lines were free of debris and the vent line immediately came off when pressure was applied from outward in to the tank.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Just got done checking squish with the new piston and cylinder to know for the future if I'll be running without a base gasket. I'm getting exactly .5mm which converts to .0196 (.020). I've heard the magic number on these saws is .018. Anyone have any insight on that?
I won't be decking the cylinder, so I plan on making sure that there is not interference between the cylinder skirt and the crankcase. If it all checks good, I'll go with the base gasket delete and use Yamabond 4 to seal it up. Any objections?
I won't be decking the cylinder, so I plan on making sure that there is not interference between the cylinder skirt and the crankcase. If it all checks good, I'll go with the base gasket delete and use Yamabond 4 to seal it up. Any objections?
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
DIY 'whiz bang' case splitter welded up and getting er' done this morning. Let's see what's inside this case.....this saw has had the P&C off for an unknown amount of time. I flushed some debris out with mix gas, but I still want to see what's going on inside.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
And, they are apart. That splitter worked slick......just used the map gas torch to warm up the case around the bearing without focusing heat in any one place (constantly moving the torch) until it was all nicely heated, and not hot. Spun the bolt down and pop! It came right apart.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Well, I think I'm going to have to put crank bearings in this thing. The bearings are nice and tight and probably would have been good, if there wasn't a tiny spot of rust or something on one of the balls. When you rotate the bearing about 10-15 times, it will eventually work that little spot into the right position and cause a hiccup in the rotation.
You know what they say about "opening a can of worms"....it looks like the more I dig, the more worms I find. Good news is--there's nothing else to take apart.
I outlined the affected area with blue lines. It doesn't show well in the photo, but looks like mild pitting where water sat maybe.
That PTO side bearing may have been good, or it may have **** itself and failed. We'll never know, because I aim to replace it now.
You know what they say about "opening a can of worms"....it looks like the more I dig, the more worms I find. Good news is--there's nothing else to take apart.
I outlined the affected area with blue lines. It doesn't show well in the photo, but looks like mild pitting where water sat maybe.
That PTO side bearing may have been good, or it may have **** itself and failed. We'll never know, because I aim to replace it now.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
I created a little surprise poll. Waiting for parts, so I am deciding to powder coat or paint the cases. Couldn't figure out how to add it to the original post, so I created a new thread. Link below:
Poll here:
Poll here:
CristiRo
ArboristSite Member
Can you tell me please what's the bearing series of this saw? I saw something in a picture like: "...023 EC".
Congrats for this thread! Amazing to watch!
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Can you tell me please what's the bearing series of this saw? I saw something in a picture like: "...023 EC".
Congrats for this thread! Amazing to watch!
Sure. This is an SKF bearing BB1-3023 EC (18 048J) on the PTO side. The flywheel is different, but I can't read it right now. Still haven't pulled that out of the other case. The flywheel side is in great condition and I was trying to decide if I would replace one or both.
Its a shame about the pitting, as even the PTO side is very tight slop wise, so I would definitely have used the bearing if not for the corrosion stuff.
Thanks for the kind words. I hope to get more done this week and post up more pics.
Cheers,
Lean seized, she got hot!
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
My local Husky dealer says from looking at the carb interface and the piston, it was probably straight gassed. The carb doesn't indicate a lean condition or hot condition.
Went back and looked, he's probably right! The piston has transfer on both the intake and exhaust .
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Ordered a new EL48 for this beast yesterday along with the bearings. Also picked up two of these bars in 20" and 24". They fit the 562XP and my 7910 Dolmar.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Alright guys, looking for a little help locating the crankcase gasket for the 5-bolt cases. The sites I'm looking at are all for the 6-bolt cases (updated version).
If I'm not able to find one soon, I guess I'll be trying to get the gasket material to make it. In either case, the 5-bolt case is a known leaker, so I'll be sealing the gasket with Yamabond 4 to assist in keeping the bar oil in.
Cheers,
If I'm not able to find one soon, I guess I'll be trying to get the gasket material to make it. In either case, the 5-bolt case is a known leaker, so I'll be sealing the gasket with Yamabond 4 to assist in keeping the bar oil in.
Cheers,
D
Deleted member 110241
Guest
I used to work at a husqvarna dealer when these strato-engines were introduced and have seen a few 560xp with a seized piston like yours.
I think it's from a badly designed leaking intake. I would pressure test that saw when it's done, and be sure to wiggle the intake to find possible leaks.
I think it's from a badly designed leaking intake. I would pressure test that saw when it's done, and be sure to wiggle the intake to find possible leaks.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks for the info. I will definitely be doing a pressure and vacuum test when the saw is assembled. The actual intake I will be running is not original to the saw. I took a good intake from a running saw, so I am hoping that it will be good on this saw. I will be checking this saw for every possible leak that can be found.
It will basically be a new saw except the crank, cases and plastic bits. New bearings, new seals, new piston, new cylinder, new muffler, new gaskets and new carb.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Got a box of parts today from Chainsawr.com. They were able to ship overseas and very quickly.
The only question I have that maybe some more experienced Husqvarna Strato engine guys can give feedback on is the EL46 versus EL48 carbs. I ordered a new OEM Husky EL48 (part# 5791941-07) from Chainsawr. At unboxing, I noticed the EL48 I received appears lower quality than its predecessors. Putting the El46 and El48 side-by-side, the EL 46 is a much better quality wise looking carb than the 48 I received.
So, here is what I've noticed so far:
All of the hardware is corroded out of the box, including the aluminum ports.
Made in China engraved in the surface right where I need to get a good air seal.
The strato ports are much smaller on the EL48. This is a problem for me, as I have the manifold for the larger ports. (see attached pic)
Also the main inlet and butterfly are much smaller on the EL48.
So, I guess what my main curiosity is, is whether I need to or if I can, swap parts between the El46 and El48. I've read that the electronics are supposed to be swapped when using the EL44. Does that apply to the El48. I believe it was about the coil working with the carb module?
Any help or suggestions is welcomed. Let me know where I need to go with this thing..... If it weren't for the box, I'd swear this was a knockoff or a clone part like a Hutzl, not an OEM Husqvarna part. I've emailed Chainsawr to see what their suggestions are.
Side-by-side view of the carbs (EL48 left). Notice the El46 (right) has machined surfaces, whereas the El48 has rough surfaces from the mold.
The carb has quite a bit of that white salt looking stuff leaching out of it, especially on the inside.
The only question I have that maybe some more experienced Husqvarna Strato engine guys can give feedback on is the EL46 versus EL48 carbs. I ordered a new OEM Husky EL48 (part# 5791941-07) from Chainsawr. At unboxing, I noticed the EL48 I received appears lower quality than its predecessors. Putting the El46 and El48 side-by-side, the EL 46 is a much better quality wise looking carb than the 48 I received.
So, here is what I've noticed so far:
All of the hardware is corroded out of the box, including the aluminum ports.
Made in China engraved in the surface right where I need to get a good air seal.
The strato ports are much smaller on the EL48. This is a problem for me, as I have the manifold for the larger ports. (see attached pic)
Also the main inlet and butterfly are much smaller on the EL48.
So, I guess what my main curiosity is, is whether I need to or if I can, swap parts between the El46 and El48. I've read that the electronics are supposed to be swapped when using the EL44. Does that apply to the El48. I believe it was about the coil working with the carb module?
Any help or suggestions is welcomed. Let me know where I need to go with this thing..... If it weren't for the box, I'd swear this was a knockoff or a clone part like a Hutzl, not an OEM Husqvarna part. I've emailed Chainsawr to see what their suggestions are.
Side-by-side view of the carbs (EL48 left). Notice the El46 (right) has machined surfaces, whereas the El48 has rough surfaces from the mold.
The carb has quite a bit of that white salt looking stuff leaching out of it, especially on the inside.
Attachments
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Finished the exhaust today...my version of the buckshot, double barrel, etc., etc.
Outlet pipes are SS tubing from aircraft hydraulic lines 12mm OD. Drilled the ID out and mitered the inlet to 45 degrees to allow free flow. Decided to braze these on instead of welding. Being dissimilar metals and different thicknesses, I thought I'd probably have a lot of problems with burn through on the muffler side.
The back was as before in previous posts, but I mig welded and brazed it to seal any voids and to make it air tight.
Outlet pipes are SS tubing from aircraft hydraulic lines 12mm OD. Drilled the ID out and mitered the inlet to 45 degrees to allow free flow. Decided to braze these on instead of welding. Being dissimilar metals and different thicknesses, I thought I'd probably have a lot of problems with burn through on the muffler side.
The back was as before in previous posts, but I mig welded and brazed it to seal any voids and to make it air tight.
AlfA01
ArboristSite Guru
Update on the carb: I was sent a 550Xp carb in an EL48 box. The blue diaphragm gave it away... @HarleyT figured out that is was a Walbro carb, whereas the 562XP carbs are from Zama. No way to make it work on my saw that I know of.
As far as the apparent water damage goes, they were good on it and offered replacement without me having to ship it back to the US....phewwww!
As far as the apparent water damage goes, they were good on it and offered replacement without me having to ship it back to the US....phewwww!
