Another Husqv 359 newbie with questions.

[BigDee]

I just found a Husqv 359. Although the compression is only 150 pounds, I wonder if it could be too new to have ever seated? When I look in the exhaust port I see very fine horizontal machine marks on the cylinder wall, much finer than those on the piston. It does have a new looking NGK plug (showing too lean) and the top of the muffler has a little rust, but the inside of the muffler and the screen, and under the muffler are sparkling clean. The numbers show it is from 2003, so I know I am more than a little late for the first wave of interest in this old model, but someone must remember it.

Anyway, having had great success with simple muffler mods and with all the information from the people here, I searched and found many suggestions for the muffler, but not all of them I'm sure. Unfortunately, many of the illustrations I would like to see are missing. Any guidance to finding the best ones for the welding-impaired would be appreciated. My muffler says 03 91 75 01, with a B3 above. I assume the initial 5 was a misfire.

On my scale the 359 with its 20” 3/8s chain weighs about 16 pounds, compared to 15 pounds, 10 ounces for the 154 I've been using with an 18” .325. Buried full bar in the wood the 154 is faster now, but it has been opened up and it does have the small chain. Squish on the 359 is .040 inches. How thick is the 359's usual base gasket?

And how do I choose which chain to run. My 254 (not yet reassembled) has a 20” .325 and the 266 has 20” 3/8, so either would fit into the “program.” The rim appears to be standard small diameter, like the 154/254. I am leaning toward the .325 because it seems more fitting for a small saw but I would like to hear more. (Uh oh, is this like another OIL question?) The 20-inch bar that came on the saw (but no chain) looks brand new so that may color my decision.

Anything else the 359 experts want to share about this saw is very welcome. I am pumped with my Craigslist find, and the wealth of information among the Arboristsite members.

Thank You. Don

 

[fuzz1500]

Id be happy with 150 psi in any of my saws !!! As far as the bar and chain...I guess its whatever suits you . Try both !!! I kinda like the .325 on it myself.....just because of the smaller cut it makes .

 

[firefighterwolf]

As fuzz1500 says, 150 psi is great. I too prefer .325... however, I would set it up with whatever the brand new bar is.

 

[rob066]

The year 2003 359 had a plastic intake clamp. There is an update to a metal clamp. You need a different partition and the metal clamp. Not too many of the plastic clamps failed though. If it does the clamp distorts and a major air leak can occur. Many still run their saws today with the plastic clamps without a failure. There is sometimes carb problems with the Walbro carb and a Zama update carb is available. I have the Husky 359 counterpart the Jonsered 2159c. I chucked the cat muffler after the second cut. Make sure to retune the carb after a muffler mod.

 

[nmurph]

What Rob said with the exception that there is no need to replace the partition. You can nip the tabs off the clamp and use a 372 clamp in it's place.

The gasket is going to be about .020", so deleting it should leave you right where you want to be- but make sure you measure it before you run it.

150psi is a LITTLE low...should be about 160. But if the saw only has a few tanks through it, it might not have reached the broken in point and the compression will increase a few pounds. With a broken in, no base gasket 359, I would be looking for 165-170psi. In that configuration, that saw will easily pull a 20" 3/8" chisel chain.

 

[sunfish]

Mod the muff, metal clamp on the intake, tune it right and run the crap out of it!

 

[BigDee]

"I chucked the cat muffler after the second cut."

So Rob066, would mine be a cat muffler? It does not say "cat" on it as I have read they do.

 

[nmurph]

If it is a CAT it will say so on top front portion of the muffler. You may need to hit the muffler with a little steel wool to to get the rust off.

 

[nmurph]

Does you saw say E-tech on the starter or have a green fuel lid? Those are dead giveaways it is a CAT.

 

[BigDee]

If it is a CAT it will say so on top front portion of the muffler. You may need to hit the muffler with a little steel wool to to get the rust off.

Thanks. But there's no rust on the front of the muffler. Maybe it never got hot?
And no CAT stamp.
So where do I drill, cut, slice dice?

 

[nmurph]

I would open a hole on the PTO side and cover it with a 288 deflector/

 

[BigDee]

Does you saw say E-tech on the starter or have a green fuel lid? Those are dead giveaways it is a CAT.

No. And No. Grey cap.
The most noticeable thing about it is how plastic-ey the gas tank looks compared to my old saws. But it does have Electrolux numbers.

 

[BigDee]

I would open a hole on the PTO side and cover it with a 288 deflector/

Toward the rear, behind the internal baffle?

Do you know a good source for the deflectors. I saw a good list of Husqv deflector prices here but I can't find it now.

 

[sunfish]

Toward the rear, behind the internal baffle?

Do you know a good source for the deflectors. I saw a good list of Husqv deflector prices here but I can't find it now.

I used a welder and bit of sheet metal. But there are Husky dealers here that have deflectors.

 

[sunfish]

No. And No. Grey cap.
The most noticeable thing about it is how plastic-ey the gas tank looks compared to my old saws. But it does have Electrolux numbers.

No more "plastic-ey" than any other pro saws. All have about the same amount of plastic now.

 

[BigDee]

And nMurph, Do I nip the tabs off the boot or the 372 clamp? I do see someone has a the steel 359 clamp on ebay for $11; would that work with my current boot too?

 

[Mike from Maine]

If you plan to mod more than a few mufflers it might be worth learning how to braze a homemade deflector. Those husksy deflectors are nice but on the expensive side for what they are.

 

[BigDee]

If you plan to mod more than a few mufflers it might be worth learning how to braze a homemade deflector. Those husksy deflectors are nice but on the expensive side for what they are.

That is good advice. I do think I must have been bitten and am developing a mild case of the disease. I know I can do the simple brazing I need. I just need to get equipped, maybe even dig out the old propane/oxygen kit from the shed. Thanks for the nudge.

 

[nmurph]

And nMurph, Do I nip the tabs off the boot or the 372 clamp? I do see someone has a the steel 359 clamp on ebay for $11; would that work with my current boot too?

No, the tabs are on the current clamp. Either you trim them off and use a screw-type metal clamp, or you replace the intake with the update version that uses the metal clamp you see on Ebay.

Tell the Husky dealer you want a muffler deflector for either a 268 or 288. They are slightly different sizes but either will work. They are about $6-8. I can braze something up too, but it is too simple to just install a ready-made piece.

 

[BigDee]

No, the tabs are on the current clamp. Either you trim them off and use a screw-type metal clamp, or you replace the intake with the update version that uses the metal clamp you see on Ebay.

Tell the Husky dealer you want a muffler deflector for either a 268 or 288. They are slightly different sizes but either will work. They are about $6-8. I can braze something up too, but it is too simple to just install a ready-made piece.

I get it. The 372 clamp goes over everything after the tabs are removed. Thanks. And if I can get the deflector for $8 I can be happy drilling and screwing. I appreciate your help.