Antique saw thread

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I have this saw with the AH-81 powerhead. It is unfortunately missing all ignition parts under the flywheel. I am shopping tomorrow at a local that might have what I need. I was wondering if any other Power Products models utilize the same parts I might scavenge.
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AH47, AH58, AH81, AH82, AH440, AH480, AH490, AH520, AH750

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Im not sure what carb it has , but here are some pictures if it, and the gasket
tmp_26247-IMAG0084-175681754.jpg tmp_26247-IMAG0083-1987889071.jpg

I should mention the gasket seperated into 2 pcs.
 
Dad's old 620 pioneer, used it so much in logging camps he wore the rings out. Still runs, but has nowhere near the power a 100cc saw should. The next generation of Pioneer, a14-20. Still used points and manual oil pump. This one has so much compression it keeps shearing the flywheel key.

Shearing when starting? I've seen recoils and flywheels shred housings and coils and fins before ever shearing a key and I don't think the Pioneers were super high compression killers like some Macs and Homelites. Oil in the crankcase can raise the compression but the tank is separate on those and should only be manual oiling. Flooding is a possibility but I've never had that shear a key.

My suggestion: get some valve lapping compound and lap in the tapers. Pull the key first and make sure the flywheel doesn't bottom out on a shoulder.

Chris B.
 
I am in the process of restoring three old saws (McColloch 7-10 and Pro Mac 10-10, and a Homelite C-51). I am having a hard time finding manuals for these ladies. Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction to find the right manuals?
 
Hey guys,
I recently got a Wright C70. no spark. have checked points, condenser, coil - all good. disconnected the dead man - magnets are good. any other thoughts? also looking for parts - throttle, carb probably more lol. excited to get going but would love some spark before I go much further. thanks
Ok I just looked at an exploded view of your saw and saw something that I had a problem with recently. The plug wire locks into your coil and that was a point of corrosion as well as the metal clip inside the spark plug boot was rusted out. Since you have points you might want to check the contact surfaces and the gap of your points. Mine looked new but I still didn't have any spark. I hope this helps.
 
Fossil, is there a manual/ exploded parts tree floating around for the mac 895?

I would love to restore and completly rebuild this saw, as it has all the parts and nothing is cracked or broken, aside from the carb dried out.. it looks like it was painted as it was asembled at factory.. i will have to take lots of photos as i go along. i just need to fix the sand blaster now and find the right color paint, and pick up a hardcopy manual :)
 
Fossil, is there a manual/ exploded parts tree floating around for the mac 895?

I would love to restore and completly rebuild this saw, as it has all the parts and nothing is cracked or broken, aside from the carb dried out.. it looks like it was painted as it was asembled at factory.. i will have to take lots of photos as i go along. i just need to fix the sand blaster now and find the right color paint, and pick up a hardcopy manual :)

The older mac collectors may have access to those. I don't have anything that old except for an old 380. Try the McCulloch stickie and ask there.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-chain-saws.71126/page-1240#post-6009104
 
My suggestion: get some valve lapping compound and lap in the tapers. Pull the key first and make sure the flywheel doesn't bottom out on a shoulder.

Good idea, I don't think there was any play between the shaft and flywheel, but I will try that out if it does it again. There may be some play in the key mating surfaces, this is probably what is compounding the problem. The compression is tremendous on this thing, it makes it awkward to start. A lot more than my xl-12, more so than you would think it would be with only 11cc more.
 
Lauson was picked up by Tecumseh. The carb number should be stamped on the carb flange. Kits still made for (some of them?) by Stens
Thank you. We will clean it up good and check it out. Didn't see anything on the left side as I had been advised in the Lombard thread but it is still a bit dirty.
 
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