any reason why I should keep a 385XP?

[ross_scott]

next year I am getting a 385XP as part of a package deal when i star my logging course i really wanted to get a stihl but the institute has a deal with husky so I have no choice on that part but I am allowed to sell it off to get what I prefer if I want to. If anyone can convince me to keep the saw feel free to do so even though i would rather a MS460 magnum, MS660 magnum or dolmar PS7900, I have heard things about the 385 over here from logging companies about this model blowing big end bearings etc so my main concern is about owning something that is going to cause headaches.I understand some of you guys have never had a problem with these saws but this saw is going to be the saw putting the food on the table and paying the bills (if i keep it) so I can't really afford any downtime early in the life of a new saw(even though my stihl listed in my sig will be there to back me up incase of the unexpected) .

 

[Lakeside53]

next year I am getting a 385XP as part of a package deal when i star my logging course i really wanted to get a stihl but the institute has a deal with husky so I have no choice on that part but I am allowed to sell it off to get what I prefer if I want to. If anyone can convince me to keep the saw feel free to do so even though i would rather a MS460 magnum, MS660 magnum or dolmar PS7900, I have heard things about the 385 over here from logging companies about this model blowing big end bearings etc so my main concern is about owning something that is going to cause headaches.I understand some of you guys have never had a problem with these saws but this saw is going to be the saw putting the food on the table and paying the bills (if i keep it) so I can't really afford any downtime early in the life of a new saw(even though my stihl listed in my sig will be there to back me up incase of the unexpected) .

You going to be putting food on the table with only one saw?

If you'd rather get an 066, get it. If the Husky works fine, keep it.

 

[Rotax Robert]

I agree with Lakeside....066

Rotax Robert

 

[2Coilinveins]

If you're going to put food on the table with the saw, then whether the 385 will hack it seems moot. You'll be more comfy with the 660, that alone seems like reason enough to get one to me.

 

[pbtree]

Run what you are comfortable with - that is what counts...

I belive the bearing failures were on the early 385's - I am not aware of the issue on the current ones...

 

[Husky nut]

Bearings can fail in any saw...I've got 2 1 week old 660's under my table at work and several other stihls with rod bearings shot in them and normally within the first 3 months of use...Same thing on Husky's but not as many in the shop with bearing problems as the stihl's

 

[Lakeside53]

Bearings fail mostly due to misuse, particularly over reving and poor gas mix. Yes, some early 044s and from what I read here, maybe some early 385's had issues, but the manufacturers fixed those. It's very rare to have a rod bearing fail in any pro saw and VERY rare on a Stihl IF the max RPM isn't exceeded excessively, the saw isn't run excessively oveheated and the saw is loaded down to a reasonable level when WOT. I see shot pistons and cylinders all the time, a few main bearings occasionally on real beaters, but almost never a rod bearing. Funny how it always happens to the same owners though...

I do have an 088 crank with melted rod bearing, but the "kid" using it had it at WOT cutting a 6 foot diameter huge Cedar stump without any idea of loading the saw. Lasted about 4-5 minutes... according to the witnesses...

 

[ross_scott]

You going to be putting food on the table with only one saw?

If you'd rather get an 066, get it. If the Husky works fine, keep it.

I will be harvesting trees next year once i have sat my large tree felling and logmakers certifications I will have a backup and that is the stihl I am running now, it may only be 63cc and be limited to using a 20" but it can haul ass and it is a saw I would not part with as i put too much money into rebuilding it. thanks for the input so far guys much appreciated

 

[bwalker]

The 385 has had bearing failure problems in this area until very recently.
I would run 32:1 if you get a 385 as insurance.

 

[ross_scott]

The 385 has had bearing failure problems in this area until very recently.
I would run 32:1 if you get a 385 as insurance.

yeah that is half of the problem over here all the companies and training institutes are bent on running 50:1 fuel mix in the chainsaws "manufacturers specs" and to me it is not healthy I even refuse to run my stihl at 50:1 it always gets 33:1 mix for that extra bit of lubrication especially with long periods of work

 

[Anubis16]

Husky 385XP

I run a 385 and the only problem I had (when it first came out) was in cold weather the boot would crack....this was a MAJOR problem, but the new ones have been updated and fixed, seemed the plastic used in this was a low grade plastic. Now with the "new" boot (new saws are realeased with the new boot of course) I have not had a problem with it...Runs like a charm and I love the weight vs. power ratio on this saw. All my saws are huskies...Orange is it for me.....

 

[twistedtree]

yeah that is half of the problem over here all the companies and training institutes are bent on running 50:1 fuel mix in the chainsaws "manufacturers specs" and to me it is not healthy I even refuse to run my stihl at 50:1 it always gets 33:1 mix for that extra bit of lubrication especially with long periods of work

The manual for the 385XP calls for 33:1 oil mix. More specifically, it calls for 33:1 for all Husly's over 80cc.

 

[DanManofStihl]

Drop the husky Stihl 660 all the way. I would also considering getting a nice back up saw maybe a ms 361 or so. You can never have to many saws.

 

[ross_scott]

Drop the husky Stihl 660 all the way. I would also considering getting a nice back up saw maybe a ms 361 or so. You can never have to many saws.

My 034 converted to 036 has to be the backup saw as I do not think my wife will be too happy if i go out buying loads of saws she agrees to me getting rid of the husky when I get it so I can have a stihl but I may even give the husky a chance if I have trouble selling it (too many cheapskates over here expecting to pay only about 25% of what the saw is worth even when you state it is brand new). it is a darn shame stihl won't cut a deal with the institute I am going to be studying at

 

[KarlP]

The manual for the 385XP calls for 33:1 oil mix. More specifically, it calls for 33:1 for all Husly's over 80cc.

ONE version of the US 385xp manual calls for it. The two previous and one subsequent version of the manual does not. I sent Husky a technical question on their website asking if my 2003 model would benefit from running 32:1 which is specified in the manual for the mid-year 2004 saws. I got no response at all. Is that because it was a typo in the manual? Is that because the EPA chastised them? Is that because they don't want me to sue them when the bearing seizes? Is that because of laziness? I have no clue.

I'll continue to run 42:1 with the believe that a little extra oil can't hurt.

Unfortunately the NZ Husqvarna site is down at the moment. Might be interesting to see what those manuals specify.

Edit: The site is back up. Husqvarna NZ says 33:1. Interesting.

 

[twistedtree]

I think the 385 really compares more to the 640, not the 660. The 660 is a bigger saw and compares more directly to the 395.

Regarding the oil mix inquiry to Husqvarna, let us knwo what you hear back (if anything).

 

[Gumneck]

KarlP,

"I'll continue to run 42:1 with the believe that a little extra oil can't hurt. "

Maybe you typed your thought backwards, but If you are talking about running 42:1 as compared to 33:1, you'll be using less oil not a little extra.

 

[KarlP]

KarlP,

"I'll continue to run 42:1 with the believe that a little extra oil can't hurt. "

Maybe you typed your thought backwards, but If you are talking about running 42:1 as compared to 33:1, you'll be using less oil not a little extra.

I was talking about more than the 50:1 my 385xp manual suggests. It is interesting that both of the NZ 385xp manuals do specify 33:1 and Husqvarna US won't respond to my questions about it.

 

[KarlP]

Husqvarna ignored my first two requests to explain why some manuals said 33:1 and some said 50:1. I finally trapped them by asking a simple question and then followed up with the real question I wanted answered.

Me: "What fuel to oil mix ratio to you recommend for the longest engine life of a Husqvarna 385xp used for chainsaw milling?"

Them: "Thank you for contacting Husqvarna. The best fuel/oil mix will be the 50:1 ratio using quality 2 cycle oil that is designed for chainsaws, and use fresh fuel, 89-93 octane for best performance."

Me: "In that case I'm curious if you could tell me why one version of the US 385xp manuals (http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2004/HOUS2004_1140238-95.pdf) as well as all of the manuals for New Zealand, Sweden, and many other countries recommend 33:1 for Husqvarna saws over 80cc? I assumed it was for longer engine life."

Them: "The different ratio can be attributed to different fuel quality in the countries that you listed. The owners manuals for all Husqvarna products in the US call for a 50:1 fuel ratio."