I don't know if this pertains to saws but...well, my neighbor fires up his chicom log splitter every year with a can of either. I've never seen anything like it. Just a stream of go juice.
Any "safe" starting fluid for a saw?
- Thread starter Joseph Acquisto
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
as mentioned at length some mix gas straight in the carburetor, just a squirt is all, though regular cheap non lubricating starting fluid will be just fine, if you just giver a wiff, I wouldn't try it on a brand new saw, but one thats been run in so it has plenty of oil build up (yes thats a thing folks) and its likely ok, granted if you over do it, worst case she runs a little hot for a minute or 2 but in reality you'll likely flood it with ether first.
a wiff on diesels when the glow plugs ain't working is fine, but just a wiff WHILE CRANKING IT and then I wouldn't recommend it on johnydeeres at all... for them to not want to start tells me other things are wrong. Case too for that matter. Even a wiff will make em ping and rattle something fierce, even so much as stalling the starter motor.
As for the injection pump dying, I"m guessing it ran allll the way out of fuel, then Chuckles McBumpkin cranked and cranked and cranked until something galled and broke, starting fluid shouldn't have gotten anywhere near the pumps... unless C McBumpkin is a real knob and put it straight into the system somehow?
GM diesels i.e. Detroit (destroyt) seem to get addicted to the bottle, and on any pony start diesel, a little ether can save a whole lot of waiting and fighting a POS pony motor, and the old Cat engines simply don't seem to Give a **** what you feed them raw crude oil to half gas half motor oil, with an ether bump they will run.
Old timers? Hel, I've done it, but I got smart and use a weed dragon now... makes less of a mess and no soot to clean off. A soda can or some sort with gasoline works good too, keeps it contained and mostly controlled "mostly"Old timers used to pour diesel on the ground under the belly pan and light it on fire,Pour a cup of coffee and wait.
On 4 stroke gas engines you can pour a veritable stream of ether at em and they will probably be fine, I'll do this on the disservice trucks air compressor as its choke system is about garbage, sometimes on the welder too, both of em have difficult to prime systems. And I may be guilty of "clearing" the water out of carbs by doing this too, the ether keeps the ******* thing running long enough for the janky gas/water mix to cycle through and start running on its own.... I may of learned that trick in WY though so?
put a splash of gas on a rag and use the vapors to start your diesel, old timers always said they had 25-35 gallon drums cut in half then beaten flat in the bottom laying around during the winter at truck stops to pour some diesel or used oil in to burn under the oil pan to " preheat em up" after needing a ****/shower/sleep stop. I can usually hear the damage in engines people have over shot with fuel and broken a ring during start up, the sound when cranking to start gives them away as the low compression cylinders speed up rpm then the good compression cylinder follows slowing the starter back down unless their all low LOL
Okay, how about this then. I've taken saws to about half a dozen different dealers and one dedicated repair shop. ALL of the dealers told me the saws were junk and needed to be replaced. The repair shop fixed them for less than $50 per visit, and all 6 of them are still running just fine. Repair shops are hard to find, so most people take their saws to a dealership for service. There are exceptions, but most dealerships have absolutely lousy technicians. It's not really the dealership's fault. They can't afford to pay a good tech enough to stay. Finding a good repair shop, whether its for your saws, your mowers, or your vehicles, is not an easy thing to do and it's not getting any easier as the years go by. As a result, those who are mechanically inclined try to do everything themselves because they've been burned so many times by idiots who don't know their intake from their exhaust port. Since you can't find "good help" these days, they are busy and take short cuts where they can, like starter fluid.
Having said all of that, I agree that fresh mix is much better.
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2019
- Messages
- 4,575
- Reaction score
- 9,254
Okay, how about if saws were designed to run on starter fluid from a can- you would get a can free with the saw when you buy it- not a quart of premix oil.
Well that would be a hoot. Who needs lube. Why stop there put direct ether injection on them like some diesels
By that logic, there must not be any need for any bar oil...
Brake cleaner oughta work pretty good.....can buy it by the gallon...
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2019
- Messages
- 4,575
- Reaction score
- 9,254
Nope, because over here at least, you get a bottle of premix oil, bottle of chain lube oil and an OWNER manual with new saws.
That manual explains what you should do regarding the two containers of oil provided and where to put them in the saw you just purchased- nowhere in that manual will there be mention of starter fluid in a can.
By that logic, maybe stick to handsaws.
Lol, this is a little off topic but I remember WAY back when I just started turning wrenches for a living. At 16 I went to work for a local small trucking company. They had 32 trucks in there fleet, and one was a old Peterbuilt cab over with a 3608 Cat that was a pain to start when it was cold. One of the mechanics drew it to do some work on and it happened to be on a really cold day. Those guys used a oil drain pan with floor dry and then put diesel in the floor dry and lit it on fire after putting it under the oil pan to warm it and a couple of other cantankerous ones up when needed. Well the mechanic working on it let it warm up a little bit to much, and it burnt that piece of crap to the ground. Lol
I agree but just use the proper fuel. Of course I have what you call "superman'd (never heard that term) an engine to get the machinery in a spot to work on it. I have used the right fuel and it did not come in aerersol can. Let me tell ya I would hate to see a video of me chasing behind my son as he ran the skidloader and I was in tow dribbling gas down the carb to get it back home.
I did like the video "she is hurting for certain" that was funny.
by that logic putting a supercharger on a big block chevy and running nitro methane should never ever be done, But it works rather well and lots of folks seem to have a whole lot of fun doing it
The manual also says some garbage about standing ON the saw to start it... works a whole lot better to drop start it. (also says to make sure the brake is engaged before starting, but it starts a lot easier with it off even with the idle set correctly so?)
Also says you should ONLY use XX brand of mix oil mixed at xx ratio. or else etc but a little less won't hurt it, and a little more is better for it, so?
Here in the states it also says that 87oct gas is just fine for it, but it runs a damned sight better on AV gas
Manual also says that ethanol fuels under 10% should be fine... experience says thats a load of ****, and verrrrrrry expensive.
Maybe the manual is meant to cover the companies ass incase some knob tries some dumb **** and wants to warranty the saw? or more likely its written is such a way as to be able to deny warranty work for a myriad of reasons.
Or maybe a little motor crack won't hurt every once in awhile.
Did you seriously type that or are you just trying to be sarcastic? If you are serious then I really question if you have any knowledge of engines, fuel, and lubrication. You definately have no knowledge of race engines and longevity.
well bill since you ask, superchargers and nitro methane, DON'T effect rings and pistons because of lubrication, what that combination does do, is stretch head bolts, squish rod/crank bearings, melt spark plugs like birthday candles, and overheat pistons, generally the cylinder walls and rings are fine.
You can run a supercharger on a daily driver and be just dandy, if its tuned correctly, you could probably even run nitro methane, but again if its tuned properly (and assuming you are filthy rich) as neither has an effect on cylinder lubrication. Actually I think Pontiac had a production grand am with a factory supercharger.
Kinda like a small shot of ether isn't going to wash down the cylinder instantly
furthermore, noting that top fuel drag cars rebuild motors after every race or every third race depending.
what they don't have time for is machining the cylinders, like one would do if the cylinder walls were say scuffed or tapered on a high mileage engine or one that had been run out of oil i.e. no lube.
Nor do they machine the crank, partly because this would take entirely too much time, but also because its simply not necessary, Hell I don't think they even run a hone down the cylinders
Anyway to get this back on track, a little shot of ether won't hurt most engines if done sparingly, it is possible to overdo it, and totally screw the pooch on the first try, but you really have to be trying hard. Think a lot of ya are just being fussy about ridiculous stuff, its a tool, use it wear it out, rebuild/replace rinse repeat as necessary they aren't priceless antiquities to be kept in a museum admired by admission paying spectators, they are meant to get dirty, abused and overworked... unless its an electro lux product.. then maybe be a little more gentle with em
what they don't have time for is machining the cylinders, like one would do if the cylinder walls were say scuffed or tapered on a high mileage engine or one that had been run out of oil i.e. no lube.
Nor do they machine the crank, partly because this would take entirely too much time, but also because its simply not necessary, Hell I don't think they even run a hone down the cylinders
Anyway to get this back on track, a little shot of ether won't hurt most engines if done sparingly, it is possible to overdo it, and totally screw the pooch on the first try, but you really have to be trying hard. Think a lot of ya are just being fussy about ridiculous stuff, its a tool, use it wear it out, rebuild/replace rinse repeat as necessary they aren't priceless antiquities to be kept in a museum admired by admission paying spectators, they are meant to get dirty, abused and overworked... unless its an electro lux product.. then maybe be a little more gentle with em
Dave86
ArboristSite Operative
I have a squirt type oil can that I fill with 40:1 fuel for priming.
A 10mm 044 Stihl should never get a wiff!
I am not sure what you are reading but I never said that at all. It would be best to go back read what you typed, read what I typed, then read what you typed. WOW WOW
Of course not, nor should any 2 stroke. Ether is a lazy man's tool.
