Any small engine techs? My splitter engine is having issues.

[NSMaple1]

I think I see the same way with the tank. Dirt will settle. If it is going to pick up dirt it will do it when the engine is running whether you shut the gas off to stop the engine or hit a kill switch. Yes they have filters. Dirt doesn't always settle, some can make it to the pickup or outlet. But IMO it doesn't have much to do with shutting the gas off and letting it run itself out.

 

[Davej_07]

These are the only two tags I could find, and I’m unable to get anywhere online by searching the serial number, etc. I don’t normally have a problem cross referencing parts.

 

[NSMaple1]

Think it's usually the engine family numbers you need?

 

[Davej_07]

Never mind, I found it on the valve cover.

 

[panolo]

There is usually a stamp on the carb as well.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Just go to Flea bay and buy some briggs carbs. I bought three of them brand new from amazon for $60. Yes each one needed some mods, the OEM was way more than the engine was worth. Or buy a new engine for $300. It was not worth my time to send my helper to finish up a load and find he spent an hour trying to start the dang thing. A 16 or 18 HP engine is still under $300 delivered to your door. Thanks

 

[Mustang71]

I'm not saying dont shut the gas off and run the carb dry. I'm saying dont run the thing until the tank is empty. You wouldn't run your car or truck dry so dont run the splitter dry.

 

[alleyyooper]

I whole hardly agree send the 10 to 15 bucks to china for a new carb, spend an hour removeing rthe old one and installing the new one.
You probably would probably fixed the problem in about 15 minutes just by removeing the float bowl and eye balling the valve and seat plus the float.

This is a valve and seat assembly removed.

A quick shot of carb cleaner and if you really want to spend a bit more time may twist a Q tip inside the seat and give it a second shot of carb cleaner.

Takes a real wrench to fix some thing and not be a parts changer.
Any body can support china and change a part.

Al

 

[alleyyooper]

Not the carb on a B/S engine but all carbs are simular.



Al

 

[NSMaple1]

I'm not saying dont shut the gas off and run the carb dry. I'm saying dont run the thing until the tank is empty. You wouldn't run your car or truck dry so dont run the splitter dry.

I most always do that too, with seasonal stuff. Snowblower, ride-on, motorbike & sled anyways. No issues yet. I always end up forgetting about the splitter.

 

[Highbeam]

I think I see the same way with the tank. Dirt will settle. If it is going to pick up dirt it will do it when the engine is running whether you shut the gas off to stop the engine or hit a kill switch. Yes they have filters. Dirt doesn't always settle, some can make it to the pickup or outlet. But IMO it doesn't have much to do with shutting the gas off and letting it run itself out.

Nomatter how full the fuel tank is, you are always sucking the fuel off of the bottom where this mud will fall.

 

[NSMaple1]

Nomatter how full the fuel tank is, you are always sucking the fuel off of the bottom where this mud will fall.

Yes. Nor does it matter how empty it is. That's what I was trying to say. But maybe I didn't say it very well.

 

[Mustang71]

Yes. Nor does it matter how empty it is. That's what I was trying to say. But maybe I didn't say it very well.

I disagree with that but that's fine it's my opinion vs yours. I never run seasonal stuff out of gas or drain the tank and have had no issues with the gas. Yes I have acquired stuff that had gas sit in it a long time and it was an issue but seasonal stuff has been fine for me. I have had carb issues with the MIL running the mower out of gas every time until I said something. But a lot of those Briggs carbs are different and are part of the tank. I had an issue on the old ford tractor I had where the needle clip was holding it open. If you ran that out of gas then you had an hour or so of trying to un air lock it. Run a stihl out of gas and you will pull it for 5 min. It's just better to not do it in my oppinion.

 

[Huskybill]

Just food for thought my experiences with splitter engines.

When I built my log splitter I purchased the cheapest b&s 8hp engine with a aluminum cylinder. The two stage pump ate all the money I had for it. Well running it wide open for 8 hours a Day first the rear cover gasket blew out. We’re the rear crankshaft is supported. Cost one new cover gasket. Next the ring gaps on the piston lined up fumigated the area and killed every flying insect. New chrome rings installed. I added my left over two stroke mix often. I changed the oil every 8 hours.
The engine lasted 25 years and the guy who has it is still running it.
Maintenance works,,,,,,,,,

 

[Highbeam]

Yes. Nor does it matter how empty it is. That's what I was trying to say. But maybe I didn't say it very well.

I was trying to clarify your statement and agreeing. The other issue is that a full tank is less likely to accumulate water so keep her full!

 

[Huskybill]

I always keep the gas tank topped outside so the moisture doesn’t form inside the tank.

 

[4seasons]

I am not a small engine technician, but I did work a summer in a lawnmower service shop a few years ago. Some of the things I learned there are:
90% of small engine problems are fuel related.
Most small engine's carbs are cheaper to replace than rebuild.
All gas will set up as varnish, but ethanol has a very short shelf life.
Fuel Stabilizers work (especially Seafoam) but fuel must be kept clean and dry.
Running you fuel tank dry will sometimes cause it to suck trash in the fuel tank into your lines, filter, and carb.
Pulling the fuel bowl to check the float, needle, and seat is worth it, but if varnish is set up in the tiny passages, replace the carb.

Internet advice is usually a shot in the dark. None of us have seen or touched your machine so at best we are guessing based on experience. Don't spend money or time based on what we say. You are the one who has to decide.

 

[panolo]

I am not a small engine technician, but I did work a summer in a lawnmower service shop a few years ago. Some of the things I learned there are:
90% of small engine problems are fuel related.
Most small engine's carbs are cheaper to replace than rebuild.
All gas will set up as varnish, but ethanol has a very short shelf life.
Fuel Stabilizers work (especially Seafoam) but fuel must be kept clean and dry.
Running you fuel tank dry will sometimes cause it to suck trash in the fuel tank into your lines, filter, and carb.
Pulling the fuel bowl to check the float, needle, and seat is worth it, but if varnish is set up in the tiny passages, replace the carb.

Internet advice is usually a shot in the dark. None of us have seen or touched your machine so at best we are guessing based on experience. Don't spend money or time based on what we say. You are the one who has to decide.

I agree with most of your statement! On some equipment, especially name brand, it's cheaper to rebuild a carb. Like Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki. Seafoam is low on the totem pole in comparison to other products like startron. Seafoam will actually rust certain things. Most fuel related failures are 100% avoidable. I have not had to clean a carb in my equipment, 2 stroke or 4 stroke, in years by following the simple procedure of 92 non-oxy and startron. I don't even drain the fuel out of the bowl if it will be used in the next year. I hadn't fired up my DHT in 5 months and went out to use it on Monday and it fired after 3 pulls. Mowed my grass for the first time since October and my mower fired up in a couple cranks. I don't know how many thousands of carbs I've had apart over the years. Did it for so long at work I never want to do it at home.

As a former service manager/tech our checkbook always thanked the people who didn't care for their fuel systems. It literally was 40-50% of non warranty business.