Anybody Ever Change A Tip Sprocket In A Stihl Rollomatic Bar?

[SteveSr]

Hello,

I have two identical Stihl RollomaticE bars. One has a good sprocket but has a seriously worn bar groove. THe other is almost new and I managed to burn up the sprocket to where the chain is into the bar rails (don't ask). So I am wondering if anyone has ever tried to swap these components in one of these bars? It looks like everything is held together with 4 rivets.

@Philbert

Thanks,
Steve

 

[user 122190]

I was told by my dealer, that there are needle bearings within. Probably can't be done as you'd have to deal with, or somehow separating the two halves of the bar to replace socket and put back in place the bearings.

 

[SteveSr]

I was told by my dealer, that there are needle bearings within. Probably can't be done as you'd have to deal with, or somehow separating the two halves of the bar to replace socket and put back in place the bearings.

Yea, I have never torn one of these apart. There has to be some sort of an "axle" for the needle bearings to rotate around and I am assuming that this piece is held in place by these 4 rivets. I was hoping @Philbert would know.

I am also wondering how these bars are actually built at the factory. I am wondering if the bar is laminated and welded before the tip is installed.

 

[user 122190]

Yea, I have never torn one of these apart. There has to be some sort of an "axle" for the needle bearings to rotate around and I am assuming that this piece is held in place by these 4 rivets. I was hoping @Philbert would know.

I am also wondering how these bars are actually built at the factory. I am wondering if the bar is laminated and welded before the tip is installed.

It would be interesting to take the worst one apart. Perhaps it's possible. You'd know rather quickly after you drill out the socket rivets, maybe. Let us know.

 

[heimannm]

I'm not sure is Stihl does it the same way, but these are photos of a nose sprocket replacement provided by Philbert. He pulled this one apart after a "chaps test".





Mark

 

[Philbert]

STIHL and Oregon used to sell kits for this, back when things were more expensive than labor, and we would fix things. They used to pop up on eBay now and then. There might still be some available deep within a dealer’s catalog.

I will link the thread @heimannm referred to. Although, I think that some STIHL nose sprockets also have a very thin shim / washer on each side (maybe superglue these to the center disc?)

Philbert

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/

 

[Philbert]

Here are a couple of photos from eBay showing STIHL nose sprocket kits. Note the paper (?) packaging sleeve holding things together for insertion. I think that some used to come in a glassine envelope? Maybe those were Oregon?





Anyway, take your time. You have little to lose (and lots of extra bearings from the second sprocket!)

Show us some pictures!

Philbert

 

[J D]

I did one a while ago for the entertainment value. The biggest issue I had (asides from sliding everything back together) was not having replacement rivets.
If you're pressing them out try & work out which way they went in press them back out that way. Make sure you support the bar well as it will deform easily otherwise

 

[stihltech]

Stihl sells the kit. Did one about 6 months ago. Not that bad with new rivets. Usually the bar is so far gone it is not worth the cost.

 

[SteveSr]

I'm not sure is Stihl does it the same way, but these are photos of a nose sprocket replacement provided by Philbert. He pulled this one apart after a "chaps test".

View attachment 1087387

View attachment 1087389

Mark

Those look like Oregon as they have 5 rivets and hole for grease.

 

[SteveSr]

Stihl sells the kit. Did one about 6 months ago. Not that bad with new rivets. Usually the bar is so far gone it is not worth the cost.

Do you have any part numbers or where to find them?

 

[SteveSr]

I did one a while ago for the entertainment value. The biggest issue I had (asides from sliding everything back together) was not having replacement rivets.
If you're pressing them out try & work out which way they went in press them back out that way. Make sure you support the bar well as it will deform easily otherwise

I would think that finding suitable replacement rivets would be the key to making this work. I don't know if the original could be salvaged

 

[SteveSr]

Can anyone help out with part numbers or where to find them? I would really like to find the rivets.

 

[J D]

You're looking for "solid steel countersunk rivets".
There are plenty available & as long as the shaft size matches the hole size any excess protruding can be carefully ground off.
I think by the time I'd pressed 3 noses apart I could salvage enough rivets to put 1 nose back together... & I didn't take a lot of care taking the first one apart as (at that point) it was just to find out what was in there.

 

[Philbert]

I pressed them out, as shown in the thread, and was able to reuse them. STIHL dealer told me they could order them.

Might find some generic rivets of the correct diameter in one of those little drawers at a hardware store, and grind the heads flat enough with a Dremel tool. They don’t need to be completely flush.

Philbert

 

[SteveSr]

Can anyone help out with part numbers or where to find them? I would really like to find the rivets.

I did some more searching and found the Stihl part numbers hiding in their Bar & Chain catalog. I'll attach a 2018 copy below.

For this project it looks like I would need either of the following:

3003-650-9928 - 3/8" .050 10T sprocket kit ( $18 Bryan 2022)
0000-974-0420 - Rivet ($2.50 ea! Bryan 2022)

 

[SteveSr]

I pressed them out, as shown in the thread, and was able to reuse them. STIHL dealer told me they could order them.

Might find some generic rivets of the correct diameter in one of those little drawers at a hardware store, and grind the heads flat enough with a Dremel tool. They don’t need to be completely flush.

Philbert

I have a third trashed bar which I will try to extract a rivet from for measurement purposes.

Will I need a real press to do this? All I have is a drill press (probably not enough force) and a hammer and a punch.

 

[Mad Professor]

I pressed them out, as shown in the thread, and was able to reuse them. STIHL dealer told me they could order them.

Might find some generic rivets of the correct diameter in one of those little drawers at a hardware store, and grind the heads flat enough with a Dremel tool. They don’t need to be completely flush.

Philbert

I'm interested in this.

I mill with Stihl 3003 mount bars, using picco/lo pro chains. Will a Stihl 3/8 picco bar sprocket fit Stihl 3/8 E bars?

 

[Philbert]

I have a third trashed bar which I will try to extract a rivet from for measurement purposes.

Will I need a real press to do this? All I have is a drill press (probably not enough force) and a hammer and a punch.

It’s great to have a practice bar! Save it for filing chains.

You can use a center punch, or a nail set (flat tip, instead of pointed). Tap it gradually. Place the bar over a block of wood with a hole drilled to accept the rivet.

Use a small bock of steel, or the back of a machinist’s vise, as an anvil when peening the rivets back in place.

Philbert

 

[SteveSr]

You're looking for "solid steel countersunk rivets".
There are plenty available & as long as the shaft size matches the hole size any excess protruding can be carefully ground off.
I think by the time I'd pressed 3 noses apart I could salvage enough rivets to put 1 nose back together... & I didn't take a lot of care taking the first one apart as (at that point) it was just to find out what was in there.

I'll look for those once I find the dimensions.