Anybody Ever Change A Tip Sprocket In A Stihl Rollomatic Bar?

[SteveSr]

No clue on roller rivets for stihl. Pic of roller tip your putting on bar?

See earlier in the thread. This is replacing the actual sprocket in a bar that doesn't have a replaceable tip.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

See earlier in the thread. This is replacing the actual sprocket in a bar that doesn't have a replaceable tip.

I see what your doing now.

Non replaceable tip laminated bar. GL

Tsu used to sell these kits years back for replacable better sprocket tips. I couldnt imagine doing it for a cheap bar myself.

 

[SteveSr]

I see what your doing now.

Stihl sells these kits. They are listed in the Bar & Chain Catalog.

Non replaceable tip laminated bar. GL

Well, Stihl thought that they were replaceable.

Tsu used to sell these kits years back for replacable better sprocket tips. I couldnt imagine doing it for a cheap bar myself.

Have you checked Stihl bar prices lately?

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

View attachment 1103209
Stihl sells these kits. They are listed in the Bar & Chain Catalog.



Well, Stihl thought that they were replaceable.


Have you checked Stihl bar prices lately?

I dont normally mess with laminated stihl bars. But yes I price bars all the time. But you do what you got to do.

Those whole kits are online. You ask for rivets. So was just going to try and help with rivets.

Do you want a 20" ES for shipping cost? Could send one that prob needs rails done and tip replaced, if matches your chain gauge.

I just order another laminated bar if that is what saw owners want to stay in a budget as they are cheap IMO compared.
Last 24" sprocket nose replacement stihl ES bar I sold to local I charged him 50.

IMO shop around. Think a dealer now days wants 75 for a ES 24" at full retail cost for what I sold.

 

[Philbert]

I’m gonna have to come down and visit your shop sometime!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

There’s a lot of things we sometimes do on saws ’that don’t make sense’, from a time or $ standpoint.

Sometimes, it’s just to learn, or to see what’s possible.

Philbert

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

There’s a lot of things we sometimes do on saws ’that don’t make sense’, from a time or $ standpoint.

Sometimes, it’s just to learn, or to see what’s possible.

Philbert

Boy I used to do that all the time. Like building a 362xp small mount from bare cases to see what it was all about.

I pretty much dont take in crap and sold most of it off.

I did count the other day and still had 19 running saws. I was hoping I was much lower then that. Started selling off at end of 2010.

I only take friends stuff in now.

 

[SteveSr]

Those whole kits are online. You ask for rivets. So was just going to try and help with rivets.

Well, my original plan was to swap the sprocket son a worn bar with a good sprocket to the new bar with the bad sprocket.

However, once I couldn't locate rivets for a decent price I decided to just use the kit to replace the bad sprocket on the new bar.

Do you want a 20" ES for shipping cost? Could send one that prob needs rails done and tip replaced, if matches your chain gauge.

Thanks for your kind offer but I bought an Oregon 20" replaceable tip bar to use in these conditions. This other one is being fixed for general cutting use and not boring/milling.

IMO shop around. Think a dealer now days wants 75 for a ES 24" at full retail cost for what I sold.

Yea, I did shop around. In our area we have the added markup of Mid-Atlanic Stihl to deal with. You get much better pricing from Bryan's.


Question: When you remove / press out rivets do you use a chain breaker or some other type of press? Do you try to pre-drill the heads off of the rivets first?

 

[Philbert]

I used my chain breaker. It had a special anvil for that purpose.

No drilling. No grinding.

Philbert

 

[J D]

I used a shop press... found it pretty important to support the bar tip itself as well as possible with something that has a hole not much bigger than the rivet head

 

[SteveSr]

I used a shop press... found it pretty important to support the bar tip itself as well as possible with something that has a hole not much bigger than the rivet head

Yea, this was the first fail on a test bar with a generic press and a punch. Won't try that again.

 

[SteveSr]

Well, The heat and humidity have left for the most part and chainsaw season will be here shortly.

I never was able to find anyone with a chain breaker so had to resort to doing this the hard way.

TIP #1 - You will need to remove or severely weaken the rivet head preferably on the original peened side (look for the remnants of the recess in the original semi-tubular rivets). A center punch. 1/8" pilot, followed by a 3/16" bit worked well.

TIP #2 - As @J D said above you need something to support the bar under the rivet. I used a standard 5/16" nut that I drilled all of the threads out of (see photos below). From here I used an anvil and a 1/8" drift. A couple of good blows with a hammer did the rest.

TIP #3 - After the old sprocket was out I cleaned up the nose on a flat mounted belt sander. I thought that I got everything but when I put the new sprocket in I discovered a burr on the INSIDE edge of the bar rails. I am pretty sure that this was left from the carnage and not from the belt sander. Be sure to check for this BEFORE you put the new sprocket in place!

I have attached some photos of the carnage and tooling below.

 

[Philbert]

Thanks for the photos.

Now that you know what you know, would you do it again?

I pressed my rivets out. But assumed that I could just use a block of hardwood, with a hole drilled in it, as an anvil for driving the rivets out.

I’m going to link this thread to the one I posted a few years back.

Philbert

 

[SteveSr]

Now that you know what you know, would you do it again?

Yes, I would, especially for a new bar. I did notice that the new sprocket bearing didn't come greased which may have been what killed the first one.

 

[Cliff Baxter]

I have done this once with Oregon bars taking the sprocket from a bent bar and putting it on a bar with an exploded sprocket. As someone else said the bar has to be very well supported. Try clamping in a vice just below the rivet and putting vice grip just over the rivet. Used 6" nails sawn off for rivets and had no problem with them. Biggest issue is not losing the rollers. You have to be veeeery careful with them. I think I put greaseproof paper round them inserted into the new bar. I don't think I've ever had a stihl sprocket fail. I have seen sprockets for sale on east European websites. Try hortulus