Anybody have actual experience with Archer

[Deleted member 149229]

I know it’s China stuff but how well they supervise production and do Q&C makes the difference. The guy that sells online has 100% reviews. Anyone actually used Archer bars and chains recently? Not... A friend’s friend tried it and it blew up and melted. Thanks.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Have sold/used 3 rolls worth of loops in 3/8" 0.050". Currently have a roll of full chisel 3/8" and another 25ft roll of semi chisel. (was all they had in stock when I ordered)

As far as the chain, I have nothing bad to say about it. To me it's on par with Oregon chain. I'm not sure on the bars. The Dirty Hand Tool cordless saw has what I'm told is Trilink chain and bar, but it's a super cheap home jobber bar. Even that isn't horrible for what it is.

Did have 1 comeback, a tie strap broke within minutes of the chain being used. I think it was something the customer was cutting or doing though, as he brought 3 or 4 chains broken the same way later that week (other brands)

 

[Philbert]

Mentioned in a few threads here on A.S. This is probably the largest:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/archer-saw-chain-made-in-australia.245018/

About 5 pages on another forum you may visit, in a thread titled 'Archer chain'

Philbert

 

[Deleted member 150358]

Use Archer chains. My experience was on a 16" bar 3hp saw worked great. Not as hard as a Stihl chain but trade off is easy sharpening.

On a 24" bar with a 4+hp saw they don't hold up real well in the tough cutting. Fine for softwood.

I will keep using them on the smaller saws. When I need some larger saw chains will get some from one of the sellers here.

No clue on the bars.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

Ok. Keep the info coming. I’ve gotten some good buys on some saws lately and need to replace some bars. Money will be a factor in multiple bars at once or spread it out.

 

[CR888]

I have'nt used their bars but used up a few semi chisel 3/8 loops. It cuts well if properly sharpened. The only issue I have with it is stretch, by the time the loop is over have used the stretch is a lot more than top tier chain. But this is usual with China chain of other brands. I give chain a hard time cutting Aussie hardwoods, others may not find stretch so much of an issue. I've had to remove the odd link but found over all its decent chain for its price.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

Thanks guys. Chain seems to be ok. No bar experience?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Use Archer chains. My experience was on a 16" bar 3hp saw worked great. Not as hard as a Stihl chain but trade off is easy sharpening.

On a 24" bar with a 4+hp saw they don't hold up real well in the tough cutting. Fine for softwood.

I will keep using them on the smaller saws. When I need some larger saw chains will get some from one of the sellers here.

No clue on the bars.

I've run several loops on a Stihl 460 and Husqy 288, both run a 24" bar, without any issue.
Doesn't seem to stretch that much. On my 460 the bar is at best 20%, and even with the current loop at 1 more sharpening left I'm not close to the end of the chain adjuster on an 84 driver loop.

The last 2 loops of Stihl chain we got (came with 2 new 362s) was pure ****. Soft as butter!
Not sure what the deal was, but I'd sharpen and be lucky to make 3 or 4 cuts before it was done.
I thought it was me, the saw, or maybe the wood, but my buddy running the other 362 had the exact same issue on different wood.

 

[ken morgan]

I have some 3/8's .58 on that I use on my 372xp with a bow bar so its odd sized like 96 links or so. chain stretch is unreal. after a few hours of use and a hand sharpening I might actually need to get a link removed. the cutters "seem" soft compared to oregon as they do not hold an edge as well though they sharpen quiet easily. total hours on both chains is about 4 hours of steady use bucking up some japanese ginko trees for a friend's firewood stash.

 

[John Lerum]

No issues with my chain and I've used it all season on bars anywhere between 28-42" with a 72cc but mostly a 94cc jonsered. Haven't noticed much stretch and not saying it's better than the best but for the price it's well worth it and if you keep it sharp or getting pinched (like every chain) it'll work just fine

 

[Franny K]

I bought a 3/8lp.043 bar of theirs. 9 tooth nose like I wanted. The page had a picture that turned out not representative. The picture for Stihl looked right. Eventually I got something it fits. It really is a bit short for the called DL number. The picture was closed tail, sent open tail skinny slot.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I needed some .063 gauge 3/8's for a vintage saw and thought it would be fine for the price when it will only be used for a couple cuts now and again at a GTG or such.

I was wrong, its pure garbage. I put some on a old Sears Power products powered saw and decided to try the saw out in the wood pile. Cutting Ash, I had to re-tighten the chain 3 times on the first tank of fuel. It was on a brand new sprocket and a roller nose bar so nothing worn on the saw to make the chain stretch like that.

Cutters are soft as a babys behind as well, one tank of fuel and it looked like the edge of the cutters were actually starting to round over. This was a semi chisel version of the chain and it had a odd factory grind angle as well, something like 33 1/2 deg so the first sharpening will take some time if you want to bring it to the common 35 deg angle.

I would not recommend anyone to buy this China junk.

 

[ken morgan]

I needed some .063 gauge 3/8's for a vintage saw and thought it would be fine for the price when it will only be used for a couple cuts now and again at a GTG or such.

I was wrong, its pure garbage. I put some on a old Sears Power products powered saw and decided to try the saw out in the wood pile. Cutting Ash, I had to re-tighten the chain 3 times on the first tank of fuel. It was on a brand new sprocket and a roller nose bar so nothing worn on the saw to make the chain stretch like that.

Cutters are soft as a babys behind as well, one tank of fuel and it looked like the edge of the cutters were actually starting to round over. This was a semi chisel version of the chain and it had a odd factory grind angle as well, something like 33 1/2 deg so the first sharpening will take some time if you want to bring it to the common 35 deg angle.

I would not recommend anyone to buy this China junk.

yeah strictly for a shelf queen I think its fine and dandy if you plan on cutting anything though be prepared to sharpen and pull links.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I haven't had to shorten a loop of Archer chain yet. We've gone through about 60-65 loops between our saws and customer saws.

One of my 460s has a fairly worn out bar. (drivers on a new chain almost bottom out) Even with that, the drive sprocket 100% worn (drivers ran into the clutch by the time I noticed it) I still was only at maybe 75% out on the bar adjuster.

It's a standard 84 driver loop. I suppose on some saws that could run a driver less (like if an 83 driver loop fit) maybe it could stretch out enough.
It does stretch some in the first tank or two of fuel, but after that I've not had to fuss with it. Pretty much the same as Oregon chain.

I'd like to think I can make a pretty fair assessment of the chain at this point. I've been running it for about a year between 3 saws and I run a saw pretty much everyday. I did about 400 cords this past year in processed firewood.

 

[Huskyuser]

I bought a couple of these chains because I got 2 20" 3/8 chains for $22 on Ebay.

I have a chance to use one yesterday and was initially impressed. The quality appeared good and it had a nice edge on the teeth. I was using my 455 and dropped an live red oak about 24 inches in diameter and 40 feet tall.

Although it cut pretty well, I did notice it didn't seem to cut at the same rate as my Husky or Stihl chains. By the time I had limbed the tree and half of the trunk cut I noticed a marked decrease in cutting ability. I also noticed a lot if stretch making 2 adjustments cutting one tree. The chain was clearly getting dull producing smaller and smaller chips. I was able to finish but the last 6 or 7 cuts were a struggle.

These chains cost me $11.00 each vs $28 low to $35 high for one Husky or Sthil counterpart so they're a good value and may be more at home cutting live maple, birch or pine.

 

[Clark10]

I bought a 25' roll a few weeks back and made some loops for my 562XP with a 28" bar. I've run about 10 tanks of fuel through the saw with this chain working in 8 inch diameter DF ( lots of pitch). Seems to work well enough. Stretch is similar to Oregon. I make a lot of horizontal and limbing cuts. So, lots of strain on chain if it isn't tight. I did find that the initial filing to touch up chain was harder but was smooth after that initial sharpening. Maybe a coating on the cuter surface? I will keep an eye on the cutter edge" rolling over" as someone may have mentioned earlier. After reading this thread I remembered thinking the same thing. When I first handled the new Archer chain I remember thinking it seemed lighter weight than the Woodland Pro loops. Has anyone weighed different chains of the same length and type to compare?

I'll be back in the woods with the chains again this week and I will pay attention to what happens and share any insights.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I've been using and setting my neighbors up with a fair amount of Archer chain. I think it's great for the money. Haven't heard any complaints from anyone.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Ive been selling Tsumura bars and Archer chain exclusively for most of this year, easily 50 loops in all pitches and lengths, im using it on all my saws...not one complaint.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[old guy]

While I do not think it is as good as oregon, stihl or huskie chain, it seems adequate, especially for the price.

 

[Cliff R]

When I purchased my CS-620P it came with a 24" bar. I saw that Archer was selling 20" bars for them with 72 drive tooth count so I bought one for it. Initially I noticed that the chain was loose in the bar but didn't think much about it at first. I did a couple outings and for sure it was too loose. I had a loop of .058" gauge chain with 72 drive links to I tried it instead and very good fit in the bar.

I contacted the seller about the loose fit and they sent a second bar at no charge, but it was same as the first one, too loose with .050" gauge chain in it.

On the second outing with that bar the roller nose seized up and it's done!

The first bar is still going strong and I have quite a bit of time on it at this point, but still having to use .058" gauge chains in it.

The original Archer .375" full chisel chain seems to be doing OK after putting it in a .050" gauge Husqvarna bar and running it on another saw. I did notice that initially it required several adjustments to keep it tight on the bar but seems to have settled in now and quit stretching out so much.

With all that said I'm not going to invest any more time/funds into that line of products. There really wasn't any cost savings by the time you factor in having to buy a .058" gauge chain and having a 50 percent failure rate with the bars.......FWIW.....