Anybody replaced the shaft on an HT101 pole saw?

[ZeroJunk]

The new shaft is round on the power head end to make it stonger. The original tube that tightens in to the power head is about an 1 1/2 inches too short as the drive shaft bottoms out. It should be a simple matter to cut the splined shaft and it's sleeve off, but am I overlooking something?

Has anybody ran in to the same problem?

 

[tree md]

No, not myself but I had to pay to have mine replaced after I bent it 90 degrees. Not cheap, close to $300 for the repair.

 

[Fish]

Yes, the job can be a nightmare, but if you go cutting...........

You must have more money than most of us......

I think the procedure is on the "mediacat"........

I will look and see if I can dig it up.....

 

[ZeroJunk]

Thanks Fish. The keeper on the shaft will stop the round part of the new style from going further forward and the splined shaft bottoms out and keeps it from going any further in, so both parts would seem to need to be shortened equally. And the outer shell is obviously a fixed length.The bearing that the keeper hits against is riveted in.

The original is NLA.

 

[tree md]

Yes, the job can be a nightmare, but if you go cutting...........

You must have more money than most of us......

I think the procedure is on the "mediacat"........

I will look and see if I can dig it up.....

I doubt I have more money than most on here. The situation was I was in the middle of storm clean up, prices were hiked, didn't have time to do it on my own, had to buy another power pruner in the mean time to fill the void, and now have two power pruners to show for it. I don't get paid to do saw mods, I get paid to stack lumber. I guess that would make me a pilot (pile it over here, pile it over there).

 

[ZeroJunk]

Here is the problem. The larger tube is where the throttle fastens. The smaller tube is splined on the inside and reinforces the splined shaft that ir slides over. The rivet is at most as far as it can go.It is about where it needs to be on the left. No magic can make it work without cutting. So, is it the wrong part or is it supposed to be cut? Or is the original splined shaft bearing supposed to be replaced and moved further up the shaft?Don't see how. I don't see a part on the parts list to do that and this is what Stihl shows as the replacement. Beats the #### out of me.

 

[fishercat]

do not cut anything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

your mind just hasn't grasped the concept yet.trust me.get the parts brake down and study it for a couple days.it will make sense all of a sudden.if you were close i would gladly help you since i was where you are with it. last year.


i repeat,THERE IS NO CUTTING ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ZeroJunk]

Fishercat, keep in mind that this is not the original replacement but a replacement Stihl has offered to reinforce and correct some breakage problems I assume. The handle shell has to go all the way in the clutch cover as it is what holds the whole thing together. The drive shaft is obviously longer than it is and is stopped by the bearing and also a keeper on the splined shaft that sits about a 1/2 inch past the end of the drive shaft. Neither can go through the bearing beacause that is what keeps the shaft from getting out of the clutch drum.

A. They gave me the wrong part.
B. The bearing has to be replaced with something that is further up the shaft, but it still has to attach to the shell or it will just be flopping around and there wil be nothing to keep the shaft from moving out of the clutch drum.
C. Both the splined shaft because of the keeper and the round drive shaft that slips over it will have to be cut a couple of inches.

Please search your memory and explain how you did it.

 

[Fish]

I have the mechanic manual on mediacat, but it won't allow to send files.
Has anyone gotten the mediacat link up on that e-file site yet?

 

[stihl86]

2 styles. Older had a 2 piece drive shaft (1 male 1 female). Newer style has a 3 piece (1 male 2 female). If you got the correct parts, you don't have to cut any thing. Best bet is to find a dealer that knows what he is doing. It takes about an hour (give or take a little) to teardown inspect and assemble. Takes longer if the dealer is learning as he goes. I'd say you got the wrong parts. No modification should be is needed on replacement parts.

 

[Fish]

Well, here is a crude way to do it......

 

[fishercat]

i went through this last year.

Fishercat, keep in mind that this is not the original replacement but a replacement Stihl has offered to reinforce and correct some breakage problems I assume. The handle shell has to go all the way in the clutch cover as it is what holds the whole thing together. The drive shaft is obviously longer than it is and is stopped by the bearing and also a keeper on the splined shaft that sits about a 1/2 inch past the end of the drive shaft. Neither can go through the bearing beacause that is what keeps the shaft from getting out of the clutch drum.

A. They gave me the wrong part.
B. The bearing has to be replaced with something that is further up the shaft, but it still has to attach to the shell or it will just be flopping around and there wil be nothing to keep the shaft from moving out of the clutch drum.
C. Both the splined shaft because of the keeper and the round drive shaft that slips over it will have to be cut a couple of inches.

Please search your memory and explain how you did it.

i was ready to modify it too.i decided to take a step back.glad i did.it makes sense after you figure out their piss poor break down drawing.good dealers can do them pretty quick.

 

[ZeroJunk]

It's not that I can't figure out how to put it back together.

The two splined shafts are even at the other end. They are actually the same length because that is the amount that was broken off. Notice how much further up the shaft the keeper is on the new one. And the round reinforcement is within a centimeter of it.

It cannot work.

I assume it's the wrong part somehow or the other. I'll take it back to the dealer and see if he can figure out what went wrong since he is the one that told me what parts to get.


<a href="http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn259/ZeroJunk1953/?action=view&current=IMG_0503.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn259/ZeroJunk1953/IMG_0503.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[Turftech1]

Hi, ZeroJunk, Did you get your shaft to work without cutting? I have that same issue at the moment.
Thanks, Karl

 

[lone wolf]

Here is the problem. The larger tube is where the throttle fastens. The smaller tube is splined on the inside and reinforces the splined shaft that ir slides over. The rivet is at most as far as it can go.It is about where it needs to be on the left. No magic can make it work without cutting. So, is it the wrong part or is it supposed to be cut? Or is the original splined shaft bearing supposed to be replaced and moved further up the shaft?Don't see how. I don't see a part on the parts list to do that and this is what Stihl shows as the replacement. Beats the #### out of me.

Hard to understand all that is going on. I done a few of them ,does the new tube match the length of the old? You are replacing the outer tube right? Then there is a driveshaft inside now what the heck is the problem?

 

[lone wolf]

 

[lone wolf]

Maybe the driveshaft is not in all the way.

 

[Turftech1]

The original drive shaft (part number 4138 710 3203) is 2 piece (male & female) but the new replacement drive shaft (part number 4138 710 3203 B) is 3 pieces (one male and 2 females) and when I slide it in the drive end is too long sticking out of the outer housing and you cannot put engine end on because the drive shaft sticking out too far.

 

[ZeroJunk]

The problem with mine was that it broke the shaft right where it goes in the clutch. Must have been common because they redesigned it so that rather than just being an insert in the end they made it a sleeve going up the shaft. I know that I got it working but I have a hard time remembering how I did something yesterday.

 

[lone wolf]

The problem with mine was that it broke the shaft right where it goes in the clutch. Must have been common because they redesigned it so that rather than just being an insert in the end they made it a sleeve going up the shaft. I know that I got it working but I have a hard time remembering how I did something yesterday.

The template i posted shows how far it goes in but I guess you aint that far yet.