Safety tip, do you ever check the wear and play in the rivets in the saw chain.?
I have never seen a rivet fail; that does not mean that it does not happen. I have seen some cutters and tie straps break at the rivet hole; they are usually heavily worn at the bottom, and likely subjected to some shock loading or run when dull.
One of the reasons I clean chains before sharpening is to be able to inspect them better for wear, cracks, etc.
Some guys will grind down their rivet heads to make 'race' chains, which weakens the connection. And I have seen several poorly set rivets, when someone tries to reuse them, or apparently peens them with a rock, instead of a spinner.
The other trick with joining odd chain you need to match the wear of the straps or it'll go tight loose tight loose.
I prefer to spin loops down (make them shorter, using just the original chain material) than spin them up (making them longer by adding new material). If I add new material, it is in at least as good of shape as the existing loop, then I grind the cutters back to fit. If the tie straps are really worn on either, I prefer not to mess with it.
Just for discussion, say a chain lets go when it’s not in wood....Does it sling off the nose?
If the chain breaks on the
bottom of the bar, just before it reaches the drive sprocket, most of the remaining chain will get '
pushed' off the top and fall to the ground (only a few, remaining drive links will ever touch the rotating drive sprocket). The remaining chain may have some momentum as it leaves the bar.
If the chain breaks on the
top of the bar, just after it leaves the drive sprocket, most of the remaining chain can get whipped around the bar until the drive links lose contact with the sprocket. Remember that the links are traveling around the bar about 20 times/second.
So, a chain catcher is a good idea. So is wearing gloves, chaps, and safety glasses. It is also the reason for the wide, flat, hand guard under the rear handle of modern saws (not just to place your food for starting).
Philbert