For decades I thought 3/8" full chisel was the only chain to buy. In recent years we've switched over to Oregon semi-chisel DPX chain on most of my saws as it just stays sharp longer especially if any of the wood is dirty or skidded to a landing, etc.
There still isn't a cure for dirt imbedded in the bark and why I have a hatchet on my belt. I few extra seconds clearing the bark where I'm going to make my cut if/when it's compacted with dirt just makes things go better all the way around no matter what chain you are using. We actually try to avoid that scenario as much as possible and much prefer to cut top left over from logging operations in place rather than skid them to a central location. It just makes for a more productive outing all the way around vs getting lessons in how hard even a little bit of dirt can be on a freshly sharpened chain.
I've tried other types and brands of chain and keep coming back to Oregon. Stihl chain is decent, but you will run into loops that require sharpening before you use it or it just doesn't cut to full potential. Pretty much standard procedure here is that I hand sharpen chain before the first use and lower the rakers to custom settings based on which saw it's being used on.
I noticed Buckin Billy Ray has a distinct dislike for off the real chain and also prefers hand sharpening to his own specs. I completely agree with his assessment on that topic.....FWIW.....Cliff
PS: As far as rivets and failing/issues in that area.....I wouldn't touch any offshore imported chain with a ten foot pole. Have had a few brief and extremely NEGATIVE experiences with that JUNK, and it is to be avoided......IMHO.....
There still isn't a cure for dirt imbedded in the bark and why I have a hatchet on my belt. I few extra seconds clearing the bark where I'm going to make my cut if/when it's compacted with dirt just makes things go better all the way around no matter what chain you are using. We actually try to avoid that scenario as much as possible and much prefer to cut top left over from logging operations in place rather than skid them to a central location. It just makes for a more productive outing all the way around vs getting lessons in how hard even a little bit of dirt can be on a freshly sharpened chain.
I've tried other types and brands of chain and keep coming back to Oregon. Stihl chain is decent, but you will run into loops that require sharpening before you use it or it just doesn't cut to full potential. Pretty much standard procedure here is that I hand sharpen chain before the first use and lower the rakers to custom settings based on which saw it's being used on.
I noticed Buckin Billy Ray has a distinct dislike for off the real chain and also prefers hand sharpening to his own specs. I completely agree with his assessment on that topic.....FWIW.....Cliff
PS: As far as rivets and failing/issues in that area.....I wouldn't touch any offshore imported chain with a ten foot pole. Have had a few brief and extremely NEGATIVE experiences with that JUNK, and it is to be avoided......IMHO.....