you are correct
Anyone familiar with this gauge and how to use it?
- Thread starter calamari
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,332
- Reaction score
- 25,430
Do Makitas use a 10mm bar nut?
That is a very collectible gauge, as it is solely used to measure the life expectancy of a Inuktitut valve
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
No, they're bigger than that. What they are I have no idea as I just use the scrench that came with the saw. Oh, wait! Are you making fun of the size of my Makita's nuts?
Hmmmm.... similar...
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
Funny how they can take the same features and rearrange them on a piece of metal and end up with a "different" tool.
I now remember the part that fits on the Makita's nose and I think I didn't like it because i didn't use the gauge when I attached it. As has been pointed out many time in my life by women, reading the directions often makes things much easier for me. If I find the other part I'll take a picture and post it here.
Thanks to all.
I now remember the part that fits on the Makita's nose and I think I didn't like it because i didn't use the gauge when I attached it. As has been pointed out many time in my life by women, reading the directions often makes things much easier for me. If I find the other part I'll take a picture and post it here.
Thanks to all.
Cricket
ArboristSite Operative
My father in law - almost ninety - can identify most any old tool - but when he can't, he declares "Whatever it is, it's a good 'un."
Invented in 1942, by Juggdish Kanutin.
"Gage" is an accepted, and correct spelling. "Gauge" is what you check your fuel level with on your vehicle. "Gage" is what you check measurements with, like thread gage, depth gage, etc. I worked for an industrial tool distributor for many years, and this was one of the first terms I was "corrected" on.
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
I am not doubting what you say in the least. It strikes me that gage is like using the words, "felling" and "feller"when the more correct words are "falling." and "faller." I guess it's the difference between what those in an industry use and what the rest of the world uses. Here's what Websters says about it. They high lighted the last sentence and gave the encouragement, I didn't. Personally, I think Steve Martin had it right when he said, "Some people have a way with words while others not have way."
From Merriam Webster.
What is correct gage or gauge?
The verb gauge, which refers to measuring or estimating, also has a variant gage. This variant appears to show up primarily in informal sources, though not often. Gauge is by far the preferred spelling in general usage for both the noun and the verb; we encourage you use it.
Calamari!
Don't put it back on the street! Rather put it on Ebay. I'm sure someone will give you 10 bucks for it, even if only for sentimental reasons!
Mike
Noun.
Faller. One who falls.
Feller. Lumberjack. A person who fells trees
Verb
Fall. Be captured or defeated.
Fell. Cut down (a tree). Knock down.
As such, the feller felled the tree.
In our industry, we are “fellers” who “fell” trees.
(Damn grammar Nazi that JQ dude)
JQ
And, if you are handsome, you might be a ’good looking feller’!
Philbert
Philbert
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
So, although I can't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday I did recall where the part that clamps onto the Makita should be and there it was. It has been there for at least 20 years on a shelf in the garage.
I also had trouble with throwing a chain recently because i cut into some nails the owners kids drove into an oak in the distant past that I was cutting down. I remembered a tool I bought even farther in the past to help me with eating ducks I shoot. I love to eat ducks and have 7 crowns in my head from breaking teeth while biting down on steel shot. It's like a small hand held metal detector that finds the shot and allows them to be removed from the meat. I'm going to try it on nails because i have to buck that tree up and I know I didn't hit all the nails.
The instructions for the tool says the tool rises up and down in relation to the clamp on guide's face but I haven't been able to make it do that yet. To set the tool height in the gauge, you put it into the correct diameter slot with a rounded bottom and tighten it up with the guide flush with the gauge's edge. Now you can sharpen the tooth using the angle lines on the top of the tool
This shows how I think the tool is set to grind the teeth.
This shows the tang that I believe you put against the tooth's edge to protect it while grinding on the rakers. The guide slides back and forth and forward and back within those two raised "ears." The rakers are set using the square slots to give the right amount of cut with the tooth. I guess they use a square bottom for the raker slots so it won't confuse people like me into using the wrong settings. After 20+ years I'm looking forward to trying it again tomorrow. It may end up back on the shelf but it seems to make sense where it didn't before. .
Here's the metal detector.
I worked with an old guy and his swamper one day while I worked for the Forest Service in the 1960s. We needed a big lightening tree cut down because there was smoke coming from its top so the forest supervisor got one of the guys from a local lumber mill to go cut it down. He described himself as a faller and was old as the hills. Probably 50.
Common usage within an industry can change how words are used. Moulding is the acknowledged correct word by the Moulding and Millwork Association while those outside that industry may use molding more frequently and be as correct.
I'm not an Arborist and just cut fire wood so I'll continue avoiding using such words in ways that may sound wrong only to me.
I also had trouble with throwing a chain recently because i cut into some nails the owners kids drove into an oak in the distant past that I was cutting down. I remembered a tool I bought even farther in the past to help me with eating ducks I shoot. I love to eat ducks and have 7 crowns in my head from breaking teeth while biting down on steel shot. It's like a small hand held metal detector that finds the shot and allows them to be removed from the meat. I'm going to try it on nails because i have to buck that tree up and I know I didn't hit all the nails.
The instructions for the tool says the tool rises up and down in relation to the clamp on guide's face but I haven't been able to make it do that yet. To set the tool height in the gauge, you put it into the correct diameter slot with a rounded bottom and tighten it up with the guide flush with the gauge's edge. Now you can sharpen the tooth using the angle lines on the top of the tool
This shows how I think the tool is set to grind the teeth.
This shows the tang that I believe you put against the tooth's edge to protect it while grinding on the rakers. The guide slides back and forth and forward and back within those two raised "ears." The rakers are set using the square slots to give the right amount of cut with the tooth. I guess they use a square bottom for the raker slots so it won't confuse people like me into using the wrong settings. After 20+ years I'm looking forward to trying it again tomorrow. It may end up back on the shelf but it seems to make sense where it didn't before. .
Here's the metal detector.
If you want to get as mired down as my "gage" gauge was in the tar, follow the rationale for using "feller" rather than "faller" when describing someone who cuts trees down. I had similar experiences when I worked in two mills in the past. One was David Austen Molding and the other was Cal-Ida Moulding. Luckily they both sound the same while feller and faller don't causing some bleeding from my ears.
I worked with an old guy and his swamper one day while I worked for the Forest Service in the 1960s. We needed a big lightening tree cut down because there was smoke coming from its top so the forest supervisor got one of the guys from a local lumber mill to go cut it down. He described himself as a faller and was old as the hills. Probably 50.
Common usage within an industry can change how words are used. Moulding is the acknowledged correct word by the Moulding and Millwork Association while those outside that industry may use molding more frequently and be as correct.
I'm not an Arborist and just cut fire wood so I'll continue avoiding using such words in ways that may sound wrong only to me.
Attachments
Never seen that version of guide that attaches to the dremel tool and, like you, I don't see how it's height relative to the stone can be adjusted. Let us know if you figure it out. The ones I've seen attach to the front of the dremel with 2 screws in slots and you adjust the height by loosening the screws and moving the guide up and down, a kind of trial and error messy adjustment. I keep mine set at 0.030" for doing the rakers and that's the only thing I use it for.
Just a thought, does the clamp end of that device mount on a circular part of the Makita that is actually eccentric? If so, you would adjust the depth of the stone by rotating the guide around the barrel of the grinder.
Wish I had one of those shot finders in my youth. Liked shooting ducks but gave them away because I didn't like chewing on shot.
Wish I had one of those shot finders in my youth. Liked shooting ducks but gave them away because I didn't like chewing on shot.
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
Since the instructions say it can be adjusted , like you, I thought that the nose was in a "cam" shape so that turning it changes the relationship to the shaft's centerline but it isn't. I adopted the "push it into the correct depth and tighten it up" technique for setting the depth for sharpening the tooth and it worked just fine. I then set the depth for raker reduction the same way but it's kind of cumbersome for that purpose. You have to hold the guide on top of the saw's chain with the ear pressed against the tooth's edge with one hand while you grind with the other. If the guide was rigid spanning a couple teeth it would be an excellent tool for that purpose but I have a full skip chain on my Makita saw which seems to leave one end hanging. I also used it for raker adjustment on my small top handle saw and had a similar problem. It may be made to be used just on one type and size chain. So far it stays in my tool bucket because I can at least get uniform results so with that I can adjust it as I get more accustomed to it.
I understand about the ducks and teeth better than anyone. If fat rice field Mallards and Pintails didn't taste so good, I'd probably still have all my teeth.
I tried it on a nail in a piece of firewood and it looks like it can sense the nail through about 1 1/2" of dry oak. Not great but may be enough to sense it through the bark and tell me where to dig with the hatchet to expose it.
Damn nails. Always a risk with trees in a residential area where some turd has hung up a bird feeder or Xmas lights and left the nails in the tree. A few years ago I took down a large ash and hit 3 separate nails buried deep in the wood, that was 3 separate chisel chains that needed a lot of work.
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
I have seldom hit them but this year seems to be an exception and I need to cut a tree down that was a corner post for a horse fence. You can see the horizontal scars from the wire but that doesn't mean that's the only metal in the tree. I hope my "shotfinder" helps because getting the dings out of my chain's drive links when it threw the chain and sharpening it again took quite a bit of time and ate up a good portion of the link's life.
calamari
ArboristSite Operative
I tried the shotfinder on the fence tree and it beeped but slightly off from where I thought the wire should be and found some apparent metal in places with no damage to the bark. I don't think it goes very deep in the wood but it seems better than dowsing rods.
