Lowering the chain Depth Gauge

[JR Hill]

I can't count how many Oregon 40466 file kits I've bought. The 6" smooth file is a good quality or seemingly so but boy don't the file teeth get polished in a hurry and quit cutting. I've actually gone looking for a medium diamond tool to see it it would last longer but I haven't found something that will fit the depth guide/gauge. I don't think its chrome on the depth gauge in front of the tooth because I purposely used a fresh file on a previously dressed depth gauge and the file still gets dulled quickly. My round files last a fairly long time but not the flat files. Anybody have ideas?

 

[Philbert]

Do you file with the guide in place?

I eyeball the amount sticking above the gauge tool, remove the tool, file, check again. Don’t want to file the gauge.

Also, file depth gauges from the inside out.

Philbert

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I use the stihl flat files and they last a long time. For the gauge I use the husky progressive gauge and just file on it. Yeah it wears eventually but who cares they are cheap and would be incredibly painful lifting it off filing and repeat. Especially on a full comp 32

 

[Sidecarflip]

Anybody have ideas?

Try easing up on the back stroke.

 

[northmanlogging]

I can't count how many Oregon 40466 file kits I've bought. The 6" smooth file is a good quality or seemingly so but boy don't the file teeth get polished in a hurry and quit cutting. I've actually gone looking for a medium diamond tool to see it it would last longer but I haven't found something that will fit the depth guide/gauge. I don't think its chrome on the depth gauge in front of the tooth because I purposely used a fresh file on a previously dressed depth gauge and the file still gets dulled quickly. My round files last a fairly long time but not the flat files. Anybody have ideas?

files only cut in one direction,
But also, Oregon products are junk.

 

[Franny K]

The cutter sure seems to file easier than the depth gauge even though they are the same piece off metal. Maybe the stamping process in manufacture makes it harder and the cutting portion is ground, The file in the Husky kit with the roller guides is what I have been using lately, Was the previously dressed depth gauge used in wood, like friction between the dressed previous and later attempt. If not maybe a little grinding with a couple of Dremel cut off wheels stacked on the mandrel. If a cutter seems too hard to file just a little grind with a dremel type cylinder seems to get through the hard spot at least for me,.

 

[northmanlogging]

The cutter sure seems to file easier than the depth gauge even though they are the same piece off metal. Maybe the stamping process in manufacture makes it harder and the cutting portion is ground, The file in the Husky kit with the roller guides is what I have been using lately, Was the previously dressed depth gauge used in wood, like friction between the dressed previous and later attempt. If not maybe a little grinding with a couple of Dremel cut off wheels stacked on the mandrel. If a cutter seems too hard to file just a little grind with a dremel type cylinder seems to get through the hard spot at least for me,.

it has to do with thickness and shape more then anything, to get a good smooth cut on a raker you would need a very fine toothed file, also doesn't help that the tooth isn't held very rigidly so it is free to flop around, on the cutting edge your are cutting at an angle, as well as cutting the top plate, so the file has something to "balance" on.

 

[Okie]

I just use the old Nickolson flat bastard files with no problem. I do keep them wrapped in a oily rag to prevent rusting and not just flopping around rubbing against other files.
For filing the depth gauges I take the file to a bench grinder and grind the edge smooth so if it hits a tooth it does not cut on the files edge.
I very seldom even use a depth gauge, can just lay the file on top of the cutter and look under the file to see the depth, but I've been hand filing for awhile.

 

[Sidecarflip]

But also, Oregon products are junk.

Not everything Oregon is, but I agree that their files are. Much better off with a Simmonds or Nicholson files. Like I stated previously, always ease up on the backstroke with ANY single cut file.

 

[NSEric]

Oregon flat files dont last long, buy something else.
If you're doing a lot of chains buy a double cut bastard flat file and use a progressive gauge, it's a very fast easy way to set the depth gauges.

 

[Sidecarflip]

I do believe the Oregon files are of Chinese manufacture. Myself, I prefer domestic made files.

 

[JR Hill]

Try easing up on the back stroke.

I'm a machinist. I know files and use. But your point is well made.

 

[JR Hill]

The cutter sure seems to file easier than the depth gauge even though they are the same piece off metal. Maybe the stamping process in manufacture makes it harder and the cutting portion is ground, The file in the Husky kit with the roller guides is what I have been using lately, Was the previously dressed depth gauge used in wood, like friction between the dressed previous and later attempt. If not maybe a little grinding with a couple of Dremel cut off wheels stacked on the mandrel. If a cutter seems too hard to file just a little grind with a dremel type cylinder seems to get through the hard spot at least for me,.

I've wondered about this as well. There is if course no way to know the hardness of the gauge in front of the cutter except for how fast the file dies. I don't let my chains go much further than to the point where the cutting edge won't snag my finger so I don't believe it is friction/heat hardening the gauge. BTW, I make my chains from bulk. I hand sharpen 3 or 4x and then machine sharpen to even them all up.

It helps to know that others have experienced this as well. I haven't had a problem with filing into the guide tool as to me its pretty easy the tell when the gauge is done and I'm now and the guide.

Ya know, I have used the grinder to cut down the gauge by adjusting the down stop but its just so time consuming.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Ya know, I have used the grinder to cut down the gauge by adjusting the down stop but its just so time consuming.

Not if you have more than ONE chain grinder, like I have. One for sharpening loops and the other just for setting rakers.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I just use the old Nickolson flat bastard files with no problem. I do keep them wrapped in a oily rag to prevent rusting and not just flopping around rubbing against other files.
For filing the depth gauges I take the file to a bench grinder and grind the edge smooth so if it hits a tooth it does not cut on the files edge.
I very seldom even use a depth gauge, can just lay the file on top of the cutter and look under the file to see the depth, but I've been hand filing for awhile.

This is definitely the fastest way by hand in a vice. Two files make it go faster for checking the chain. Works the same on the saw with a regular rectangle files.

 

[JR Hill]

Not if you have more than ONE chain grinder, like I have. One for sharpening loops and the other just for setting rakers.

That's exactly the case. I have an old, all metal grinder that I brought out of retirement because I made a spacer so I could use currently available wheels. The plastic Harbor Freight grinder became the one for setting the depth guide. The whole purpose of my OP is that it's so much faster to do one the saw.