Anyone switch from old CB 5648 to gasification stove?

[Kevin in Ohio]

Kevin - when you upgrade, let me know the details, I have basically the same overall set up: 13 year old 5648 Classic (nonstainless though) in a 24x24 building, heats a 2000 sq. ft. house with in floor heat in basement, also heats 24x36 shop plus our domestic hot water; even the same damn color '89(?) GM K1500. Scary. Only repair on the 5648 so far has been a door solenoid. I'm hoping for ten more years, that's when the youngest of the slave laborers will most likely fly the coop, so by then maybe revert back to profane (God, did I really say that?) or not. Well, we still have the freestanding stove in the living room so it wouldn't be complete withdrawal.

I too am hoping for more years but you never know. I'm not planning on replacing unless something drastic happens that the fix cost would be high or patching a sinking ship. I'm blessed with having all the wood I could ever need. Health would be the only reason I'd stop and I try to make things easier in the process tom allow me to extend the time using wood.

If you're into Power Wagons, we may be brothers!

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I forgot about the possible fireballs when you open the door to load wood. The new boilers are air tight. A buildup of combustible gas can lead to a large combustion of gases when opening the door of a gasification boiler. Be sure to stand behind and away from the door when opening. They say this in their video of how to open the door but don't tell you how bad it is. The Mrs has a FR rated coat for loading the boiler. I have also had strong backdrafts causing the top of the stack pipe to blow off. Plus smoke blowing past the door seals. I was thinking the door was going to blow off. I allways check the wifi monitor so I don't open the door directly after a hot wood burn. The backdrafts are during the air cycle 30 to 60 min directly after a good burn.

The gasification boilers are not for use in a shed. If so it better be all metal and well vented.

Mine does the same thing (blow back wise) and the answer is to let it burn down to an ash over before loading and seeing the water temp around 178. I know you say that is a no no with the gasification process though. We are supposed to crack the door VERY slowly to prevent it too. My building is laid block, cement floor and I have a high powered exhaust fan. they don't recommend any of these to be in a shed but I do NOT regret it. Thanks again for your insight on these. Always open to learning from what others have found with theirs.

 

[mysteryman896]

I forgot about the possible fireballs when you open the door to load wood. The new boilers are air tight. A buildup of combustible gas can lead to a large combustion of gases when opening the door of a gasification boiler. Be sure to stand behind and away from the door when opening. They say this in their video of how to open the door but don't tell you how bad it is. The Mrs has a FR rated coat for loading the boiler. I have also had strong backdrafts causing the top of the stack pipe to blow off. Plus smoke blowing past the door seals. I was thinking the door was going to blow off. I allways check the wifi monitor so I don't open the door directly after a hot wood burn. The backdrafts are during the air cycle 30 to 60 min directly after a good burn.

The gasification boilers are not for use in a shed. If so it better be all metal and well vented.

HAHA, oh yea how can one forget to mention the potential fireballs. I have had fire shoot out probably 5 or more feet and about blow the door handle out of my hand. Proper door opening can prevent loss of eyebrows, but there is no avoiding the possibility 100%.

 

[NSMaple1]

I don't know about this fireball thing. I have a gasifier, an indoor one, in my basement. Have never experienced anything like that. Might be a factor of induced draft vs. forced draft? Or some other design difference peculiar to a certain boiler. I don't even have any gaskets on any of my doors - steel on steel.

 

[sam-tip]

Yes forced draft requires air tight seals or the air does not get to the fire. Is your gasifier a batch system? It runs until the fire is burnt out.

 

[NSMaple1]

Yes, it is. It's also natural draft - so it ramps itself up & down draft wise with the varying burn level. Kinda like a turbo spooling up & down.

I'm not sure on OWBs - are any of the OWB gasifiers induced draft, rather than forced draft? I think I would much prefer induced, but not sure if that is available in an OWB. Also not sure why not, if not.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Yes, it is. It's also natural draft - so it ramps itself up & down draft wise with the varying burn level. Kinda like a turbo spooling up & down.

I'm not sure on OWBs - are any of the OWB gasifiers induced draft, rather than forced draft? I think I would much prefer induced, but not sure if that is available in an OWB. Also not sure why not, if not.

On mine there is no blower motor. All they do is have a damper on a solenoid that is controlled by a thermastat. My water range is 178 - 185. Hits 175 and it opens, 185 degrees and it closes. Basically starves it for oxygen and it smolders so that is where the build up comes from. Open the door after it shuts down hot and it'll bark at you in the form of a fireball out the door. Pretty soon after I bought mine they came out with a forced draft. Never knew anyone personally that had one.

 

[benp]

I've been getting 12+ hour burn times lately.

Temps have been in the 20's low 30's, so not real old. But the neighbor has been bringing his equipment into the shop and power washing it for the last couple days.

So, I figure that's not too bad with the added heat load of the water on the floor and cold equipment warming up. Anytime equipment was brought into the shop before it would just suck the life out of slab.

@sam-tip is 110% correct about dealing with the fireballs. I only open the door once the water temp starts dropping, less than 183 and reaction temps of under 500.

We have the 750 Edge and it has a bypass that the smaller Edge models do not. Before you open the door, you raise the lever, and an area in the upper part of the firebox opens up directly to the chimney. There are pictures of it in one of my posts.

Open the door enough to get the vent turned on, and go round up the wood.

By the time you get back, the firebox is pretty cleared out smoke wise.

 

[panolo]

I've been getting 12+ hour burn times lately.

Temps have been in the 20's low 30's, so not real old. But the neighbor has been bringing his equipment into the shop and power washing it for the last couple days.

So, I figure that's not too bad with the added heat load of the water on the floor and cold equipment warming up. Anytime equipment was brought into the shop before it would just suck the life out of slab.

@sam-tip is 110% correct about dealing with the fireballs. I only open the door once the water temp starts dropping, less than 183 and reaction temps of under 500.

We have the 750 Edge and it has a bypass that the smaller Edge models do not. Before you open the door, you raise the lever, and an area in the upper part of the firebox opens up directly to the chimney. There are pictures of it in one of my posts.

Open the door enough to get the vent turned on, and go round up the wood.

By the time you get back, the firebox is pretty cleared out smoke wise.

Haven't experienced any fireballs yet but I'm careful. My heat load draw is so light i'm seeing 14-15 hours with a semi loaded stove burning branches and smalls. House is at 74 degrees. Only running in stage 3 for a bit. Pretty cool to see the stove say 1.28 or 1.31 though. Gonna clean the ash this morning after a 10 day run. Impressive unit so far.

 

[Johnny Yooper]

I too am hoping for more years but you never know. I'm not planning on replacing unless something drastic happens that the fix cost would be high or patching a sinking ship. I'm blessed with having all the wood I could ever need. Health would be the only reason I'd stop and I try to make things easier in the process tom allow me to extend the time using wood.

If you're into Power Wagons, we may be brothers!

The closest I can come to Power Wagons is the 1968 M101A1 trailer that I believe used to be pulled by them; so perhaps half brothers!

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

The closest I can come to Power Wagons is the 1968 M101A1 trailer that I believe used to be pulled by them; so perhaps half brothers!
View attachment 539172

Cool. This is my "pre" Power Wagon. 1941 WC40 Military closed cab.

 

[benp]

Cool. This is my "pre" Power Wagon. 1941 WC40 Military closed cab.

Kevin that is AWESOME!!!!!!

 

[benp]

Had a personal record for reaction chamber temp Friday evening.



Highest I saw before was high 1600s.

Still getting 12-14 hr burn times as the temp cools off.
Heating less I imagine would get longer times.

I talked to the dealer and he said he's getting 33hrs on a full load right now.

I really really like this stove.

 

[panolo]

400 more degrees than I have gotten. Mine doesn't run long enough to get those temps it seems. I'm going on 14 hours and won't have to fill it for another 3. I ran some oak last night instead of the normal bridge wood I have been filling it with. Probably a tich more than 1/3 full.

I have been running branches and small rounds. Last night was 50% splits. Seems to burn much cleaner with splits.

It just hasn't been cold enough. I'm keeping the house at 73 degrees 24/7. Supposed to get colder this week and hopefully I will learn more about the stove.

Impressive so far.

 

[sam-tip]

I think I have you by 1 degree a couple of years ago. Very hot burn! Going 24 hrs between refills with a half fill. Burning very seasoned bur oak. I like how your wifi mounted to the boiler. I had to run data wires into the garage to mount the wifi display.

 

[benp]

400 more degrees than I have gotten. Mine doesn't run long enough to get those temps it seems. I'm going on 14 hours and won't have to fill it for another 3. I ran some oak last night instead of the normal bridge wood I have been filling it with. Probably a tich more than 1/3 full.

I have been running branches and small rounds. Last night was 50% splits. Seems to burn much cleaner with splits.

It just hasn't been cold enough. I'm keeping the house at 73 degrees 24/7. Supposed to get colder this week and hopefully I will learn more about the stove.

Impressive so far.

I think I have you by 1 degree a couple of years ago. Very hot burn! Going 24 hrs between refills with a half fill. Burning very seasoned bur oak. I like how your wifi mounted to the boiler. I had to run data wires into the garage to mount the wifi display.

Boy that's awesome you guys are getting that long of burn times.

I am tickled with the 12-14 hours. It sure beats 8hrs on a good day with the planets aligned I was dealing with before.

I too have noticed that splits do better than round pieces. I load it just like the owner manual shows for 12hrs. I put smaller splits on the bottom couple rows then increase the size as I go up. That way at the end of the 12 or so hrs it's dealing with larger wood that will last longer. My theory anyways, lol.

I definitely got my mixture right on that load. I only got into the 1400 range a few times over the last 24 hrs.

Now that I have done a couple things to help the wifi module it has been working great.

Our current router was about 4-5 years old. It couldn't connect directly to the stove so I had a range extender in the shop that connected to the wifi module.

I got a higher horsepower router and I can now directly connect to the stove. I also added a 7db antenna to the wifi module in place of the stock one just as an insurance policy for the signal. I had it laying around.

The neighbor pulled in the truck and gooseneck that's covered in snow into the shop this morning so it can be melted for tomorrow.

I am curious to see how the heat load changes from the melting.

 

[panolo]

You can really tell the difference when it gets cold. Been running single digits around here and what I was getting 14 hours out of now drops to between 9 & 10. Up the quality of the timber and it gets back to where it should be. I'm slightly behind the 8 ball as this is my first year back on wood and I don't have the a ton of quality timber to burn that is under 30% dry. I'll probably kick myself in the back side for not securing some few year seasoned oak but I've got about 12 cord of hardwood mix that should be ready to roll next year. Kinda stubborn. Next week should be a fun one as we are not supposed to get above 5 with lows around -10 to -15. They ain't bs'ing when they say the moisture content and quality make all the difference in the stove.

 

[benp]

You can really tell the difference when it gets cold. Been running single digits around here and what I was getting 14 hours out of now drops to between 9 & 10. Up the quality of the timber and it gets back to where it should be. I'm slightly behind the 8 ball as this is my first year back on wood and I don't have the a ton of quality timber to burn that is under 30% dry. I'll probably kick myself in the back side for not securing some few year seasoned oak but I've got about 12 cord of hardwood mix that should be ready to roll next year. Kinda stubborn. Next week should be a fun one as we are not supposed to get above 5 with lows around -10 to -15. They ain't bs'ing when they say the moisture content and quality make all the difference in the stove.

I 110% agree on the wood.

I have been seeing awesome reaction chamber temps. Average has been in the 1500's and I hit 1900's this week.

I can tell when the neighbor has the shop door open pulling equipment in and thawing off just by how the heat load reacts.

With vehicles or equipment pulled into the shop in the evening to melt or thaw out I have been getting a solid 10 hours. Yesterday morning it was -12 and my pickup and plow truck were pulled in Friday nite both snow covered and got 10 hours.

Last nite the the shop was stabilized with nothing in or out in the evening. It was -3 last night when I went to bed and 2 degrees this morning. 13 hours later I had 2 pieces of wood left and an awesome coal bed.

I couldn't be more happy.

On Monday evening the neighbor and had me clear the the one side of the shop and be ready with the door because he was fully loaded down. He was going to be coming in hot because our driveway is an incline and I had just plowed so he kept his momentum up.

It's amazing how quick 80000 frozen pounds will suck the heat out the air. LOL. The shop went from 65 to 55 in a half hour. If you stood next to the track hoe and blew out you could see your breath. The dozer is the only thing that wasn't froze in the picture. That includes my neighbor and his brother in law.



With the plow truck melting and the roll off truck, skid steer, trailer, and hoe melting/warming up I still got 10 hours and came out to a good coal bed.

 

[benp]

A little update now that we've been having sub zero temps.

Still getting a solid 10 hours with a piece or 2 left and an awesome coal bed.

I've started doing a couple things different. With a fresh fill I only fill it half way and let it buck for a while. I then top it off after an hour or so.

The wood seems to burn a lot better this way and I maintain very good secondary temps.

I changed the differential from 10 degrees to 7.

The stove seems to react better coming on at 178 plus I get a small over shoot after the stove shuts off.

Still thoroughly ecstatic with the stove and we are really pushing this thing. The heat load has been very high due to all of the working in the shop. We had the door open for 15 minutes yesterday while trying to finagle a dump truck in to be painted that we had just pulled out while we washed the shop floor.

That used to crush the old stove in the sub zeros and we would have 4-5 fills a day.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

A little update now that we've been having sub zero temps.

Still getting a solid 10 hours with a piece or 2 left and an awesome coal bed.

I've started doing a couple things different. With a fresh fill I only fill it half way and let it buck for a while. I then top it off after an hour or so.

The wood seems to burn a lot better this way and I maintain very good secondary temps.

I changed the differential from 10 degrees to 7.

The stove seems to react better coming on at 178 plus I get a small over shoot after the stove shuts off.

Still thoroughly ecstatic with the stove and we are really pushing this thing. The heat load has been very high due to all of the working in the shop. We had the door open for 15 minutes yesterday while trying to finagle a dump truck in to be painted that we had just pulled out while we washed the shop floor.

That used to crush the old stove in the sub zeros and we would have 4-5 fills a day.

I reread your posts but didn't see it anywhere. Forgive me if you have clarfied but are you heating house as well or is it just for your shop? I do my 36' x 50' attached garage and I know how nice it is to pull something out and shut the door and it stays basically warm because of the radiant floor pex.

I really appreciate you giving a real world experience and tips with one. Makes me feel better about if/when I'll have to do mine. I know some were not happy when they first came out. Besides the smoke it sometimes gives the ash removal is not a highlight for me on my current stove. I understand why they did it but it doesn't mean I have to be a fan of it. Nice equipment by the way. I'm drooling!