Anyone using a Blaze King Princess?
- Thread starter Haywire Haywood
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ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
No idea on the temp, it's not important to me as that is just a number. I set the stove and leave it be, it goes to where it wants and the house is warm for a long time.
I'm not one to get fussy over minor details that don't mean anything. Kind of the same with not polishing my chainsaws haha.
I'm not one to get fussy over minor details that don't mean anything. Kind of the same with not polishing my chainsaws haha.
Tjcole50
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The temperature is important... for safety measure you should be able to monitor your temp. A stoves cruising temp isnt s minor detsil when we are talking about a 3,000$ investment... I know for 100 percent that my house needs a 700 degree minimum to hold 70 degreees in here at 10-15 or below... and it gets below 15F Alot
Temperature doesnt mean anything
Temperature doesnt mean anything
wireedm
ArboristSite Operative
We've had our princess insert for 2 years now. Still impresses us every day of the winter. I'm burning exclusively red oak and get 25-27 hours a load on average when the temps are in the 30's. The longest I've seen is 30hrs with high 30's - low 40's. when the temps get down to zero, I'll get as low as 15 hours.
I purchased the stove and installed myself for $2,800. Flu liner and cap was an extra $700.
Dropped our power bill from around $225 to $95. Very pleased.
I purchased the stove and installed myself for $2,800. Flu liner and cap was an extra $700.
Dropped our power bill from around $225 to $95. Very pleased.
I pay more attention to the house temp. My setting is as low as it will go most of the winter. When it doesn't keep up there I will crank it up to between 1 and 2 and turn the fan on. It has to be below 0 for me to need to turn it higher than that. Burning mainly spruce it takes 2 loads a day most of the winter, on the coldest days 3, same as Valley Firewood. With your eastern hardwoods you should do better I would think. The cat kicks off at about 500 and stays well above that for most of the burn. Not trying to advertise for Blaze King, but in Alaska we need our heat to work and they work well.
I also pay more attention to my house temps than my wood stove temps, I dont even have a thermometer on the flue. I just know I've gone down to check it and could see a low glow on the steel. I thought I had a crack letting light through from the firebox but it was just the metal glowing. It doesnt happen all the time but when its -10 to -15*F before windchill I need a the BTU's. The average high temperature for the month of february was 9*F. I felt I burnt half of my wood in that month alone and I burn about 7-8 cord of wood (soft and hardwood mix) per year. I prety sure I was going through a 1/3 cord ever 5-7 days.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
It's not needed being it self controls it. I know at #1 or whatever on the temp dial = the house will be warm with x temp outside. The actual stove temp doesn't matter. It's not going to overheat itself unless the intake damper is cranked wide open.
There is a catalyst temp guage, but it has no numbers, just inactive, active and maybe over fire?
There is a catalyst temp guage, but it has no numbers, just inactive, active and maybe over fire?
The temperature is important... for safety measure you should be able to monitor your temp. A stoves cruising temp isnt s minor detsil when we are talking about a 3,000$ investment... I know for 100 percent that my house needs a 700 degree minimum to hold 70 degreees in here at 10-15 or below... and it gets below 15F Alot
Temperature doesnt mean anything
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Yeah I suppose so.
The temperature is important... for safety measure you should be able to monitor your temp. A stoves cruising temp isnt s minor detsil when we are talking about a 3,000$ investment... I know for 100 percent that my house needs a 700 degree minimum to hold 70 degreees in here at 10-15 or below... and it gets below 15F Alot
Temperature doesnt mean anything
I have a blower on my stove, so whatever a temp gauge would read won't even be correct unless I turned that off.
I have a thermometer on top of the fridge that have big numbers I can see from the stove. It shows inside and outside temps.
I just use that to figure how much wood to put in the stove, whether or not the blower needs to be on and what to set intake damper at. I've had the stove for 5 or 6 years so I've got my "system" pretty well sorted out.
The only times it's really "screwed" me is a sudden temp change. Seems most winters we'll get a 40* one evening and it's -10* the next morning and vice versa.
Probably some of not needing to know the stove temp is from heating with wood almost all my life. Until just a few years ago I had no idea there was even a such thing as a stove thermostat.
So... it's not a "your way is wrong" deal, just the same as I'm not wrong.
I agree with you, I'm not sure there is value in knowing the stove temp. I'm firing the stove to heat my living space so the house temp is the overiding input on how I operate the stove. If it gets cold I turn it up, if it gets hot I turn it down. What ever the stove temp is a consequence of the setting I put it at and with a thermostatic air damper the stove temp should self regulate to a fairly steady temp. That's the advantage to a stove that has a thermostatic air control. I wouldn't be worried about running the stove at the high setting and over firing it, the manufacture should have it calibrated so it won't damage itself.
Just got me a princess two days ago. So far so good. Still learning how to use it.
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
I would get the king model if this is what your looking for
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
That would be no issue at all. I get over 24hr burns with that temp with my princess
D
Deleted member 135597
Guest
How many sq ft you heating?
Highbeam
ArboristSite Guru
The temperature is important... for safety measure you should be able to monitor your temp. A stoves cruising temp isnt s minor detsil when we are talking about a 3,000$ investment... I know for 100 percent that my house needs a 700 degree minimum to hold 70 degreees in here at 10-15 or below... and it gets below 15F Alot
Temperature doesnt mean anything
Yeah, you've got to get off of your need to know the surface temp. It doesn't work like that with a cat stove. The surface above the 1000 degree cat will always be something like 500-700. That doesn't matter. It's a question of how much of the stove is at 500-700. With a cat stove you can have a cold belly and a hot spot only in the middle of the top or you can have the whole thing hot. Surface temp is not the way to run a BK.
I have a surface temperature gauge right next to the cat temp gauge and it is pretty stupid. Always says the same thing so long as the cat is active. I also watch the flue temps with a probe meter and that is more telling of the condition of the fire.
BK has engineered the stove to not be damaged even when run on max. This is not a manual control non-cat. Learn the thermostat, embrace the thermostat. It is unlike any other stove.
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