Arbor Trolley @ Tree Stuff

[imagineero]

Measurements to follow sometime tonight I'm off to work now

 

[no tree to big]

Wish I could weld worth a damn... might help if I had a decent welder too....

 

[imagineero]

I've often found it difficult to weld without a welder. But I can weld a fart to a rainbow if I've got one. If you're not so talented most welder a are easily bribed with beers. Most welders hate fabricating so you can greatly reduce the volume of beer required by doing the cutting yourself.

 

[no tree to big]

I got a ***** welder undersized for anything thicker then sheet metal..

 

[imagineero]

Total height of the upright part of the handle 2'4", no reason except it felt comfortable to my heands at that height

total length of the cradle 2'5". Reason for this being we rip a lot of our logs to fit through the chipper and I generally rip 'em to 18"x25" and 36" in length since thats the bar on my bigger saws and I dont wanna end up short so made it 7" shorter.

Total width from outside of wheel to outside wheel 2'6". I was going to make it 30" initally but I'm really glad I didnt. Theres a lot of places it only just barely fits (like less than an inch to spare) at a width of 2'6 and I've almost never found a place we couldnt take it. I wouldn't make it any wider if doing it again

Length of the upright poles that slot in is 2'. It's a good size and I wouldnt make it any longer. I'd make the uprights out of something a little beefier if doing it again, it's the only weak part on the trolley. From memory I think I just used 3/4" standard wall since I had some kicking around. I'd probably step it up to inch pipe with heavy wall. They do bend if the guys are really pushing hard on the uprights.

Overall length with the handle is 6'. thats about right.

If you want any other photos/measurements feel free to ask

 

[ATH]

Nice.

FYI: The uprights on the real thing are solid rods...

I think I will do some welding to make a rack to make it easier to haul the thing around.

 

[imagineero]

Here's a bonus project for those with welders too. Sick of getting your chute clogged?



Markout how you want your slot. Follow the contour of the chute and allow at least 1 1/2" distance from the outside or the chute will get weak. Markout your hinge etc make sure you've got enough space. It's 1/4" on a 250XP, so you can cut the straight sections with a cutoff disk but you'll need a plasma or oxy for the rounded corners. You need to cut the corners round, if you cut them square then you will get cracking from all the stress/vibration happening in the chute. Use a 1mm cutoff disk or there will be too much gap between the hole and the plate when you put it back together.



Use a big heavy duty hinge. Man thats some ugly welding, my vertical up ant what she used to be. use magnetic holders to get the plate exactly centered, get it right and tack it up



get in the chute with a flap disk and flap wheel, clean it up and deburr it real nice since you'll be sticking your arms in there and all. Same deal with the plate.



I added some 1/8" x 2" cause thats what I had sitting around. It's too wide really but I didnt have anything else. It holds the plate exactly aligned with the chute and blocks off the gap. Spend as little time as you like making it neat. I dont know how those latches will hold up, might need something beefier but if they fail im thinking they'll fail gracefully and be sure and put em in so they lock downards!



etc etc

 

[Magnum783]

Love your upright idea. How wide is yours at the top as in how wide is the top of the V.

 

[imagineero]

2'8". The V is 45 degrees each side so it's square.

 

[Magnum783]

Let me revive this old thread how long did you make the handle