Art Martin: Will the Real Logger Please Stand Up

[Art Martin]

The sideways flexibility in the body of the chain is the result of the tolerances built into them probably for lubrication purposes. Some chains do have more sideways movement than others, which is a result of poor quality control. A rivet spinner can take up some of the slack and is a good idea on racing chains since the chain is used sparingly. On everyday wood cutting, the extra space is a plus for lubrication of the rivet bearing flanges and drive link holes. On a Carlton 3/8” pitch .050” gauge chain, the thickness of the rivet flange bearing is .061”. The drive link is .058”, there is a .003” clearance or play when the tie straps are riveted on. The tang on that chain is .050”.

The thickness of the tie straps are .053” each. When the chain is assembled and the rivet hubs are spun, the outside total thickness should be .167”. However, this is not the always case. Often this measurement goes over that amount. If you are making a racing chain, ideally you should place the chain in a rivet spinner and close the gap by spinning both sides. Never over tighten the rivets because they could split. This procedure should be done, of course, before the rivet hubs are ground off.

All this is tedious work, but it is part of the process of making a good racing chain.

Art Martin

 

[Crofter]

Thanks Art

You are never going to be able to quit Art; the more you feed us the hungrier we get!

Frank

 

[Art Martin]

Another stage to be mentioned in making a racing chain is the thinning of the inside to the main body of the tooth. This step is only for those whose are really serious. First the chain has to be dismantled. Then a surface grinder is used to take .020” of metal off the inside face of the area where the rivet holes are. I built a surface grinder using a small electric motor that I mounted on a hinge that I designed. I made a threaded control assembly that allowed me to lower or raise the grinding wheel by turning a knob. The hardest part was making a tool to hold the tooth solidly and level while sliding the tooth back and forth under the adjustable grinding wheel. Finally, I designed the holding device, which held two teeth at the same time. I marked the lowering knob to use it as a gauge so all teeth ended up with the same thickness. The chain then has to be re-assembled. Without dechroming, the chain will now cut a .040” narrower kerf. I no longer do this procedure but wanted to mention it for those who want to do it.

Art Martin

 

[Art Martin]

This is a picture of the tooth holder with clamps.

Art Martin

 

[Art Martin]

This is another angle of the tooth holder.

Art Martin

 

[timberwolf]

Learn to walk befor you try to run

Just do a search ether on this site or on the whole net, here is an example of one of a thousand links.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/brewer57.html

You can never master ther finer details if you don't first spend time understanding the basics!

Dont' even bother looking at this thread if your not into preformance chains or at least until you get an understanding of the basics. Trying to understand this stuff will just mess with your head and get you all bothered and worked up, as is evident in your posts.

Timberwolf

 

[jokers]

Welcome back Art. Hope things are going better at home as well. I hope the rest of us can remember what an icon of performance chain building Art is and be greatful enough to him for sharing in such detail that we don`t have to be trying to upstage him or disprove what he is saying. I`m sure that Art expects us to take the info he has given us and then try it out. Then if anyone of us can win as consistently as Art has we should remember who gave us a hand up and not go running around as if we are self made experts. The way that Art is sharing with us is an anomoly in the realm of world class competitors and I for one, appreciate it to no end. Over 16,000 views and counting on this thread, that`s got to be some kind of internet record. Russ

 

[Art Martin]

beginner,

Thanks for your concern and nice words regarding the serious health problem our family has been facing during the past six months.

As to your inexperience in the art of chain filing, everybody has to start someplace. The post submitted by timberwolf, with a link to basic chain filing instructions, certainly covers the subject really well. Follow those instructions until you become more proficient in the basics. Later, if you want to go into more advanced chain filing or even racing chains, don’t hesitate to ask for advice.

Art Martin

 

[Art Martin]

I finally took some pictures of the surface ground inside wall of two teeth along side two regular teeth for comparison. Two of the teeth were reduced by .020". I hope it shows up clearly. I have some other pictures I might send later.

Art Martin

 

[Tzed250]

Video

Art, sorry it took so long to get back to you. Let me see if I can get a copy made of the cutting video, and if I can then i'll ask for your address to send it to you. Have a good one,

John

 

[dbabcock]

Enlarged, brightened, decontrasted and sharpened a little to try and bring out the detail a little better.

 

[Tzed250]

Looks like racin' parts to me

 

[Harley]

Art,

Thanks for the pictures.

Did you ever modify a bar to make it thinner? Is there one brand/type of bar that you have found that is thinner to start with.
Thanks

 

[Art Martin]

Before I start the subject of this post, I want to respond to the few previous ones.

Doug,
Thanks for enhancing and bringing out the details better on the thinned teeth pictures that I posted.

Tzed,

If you would send me your email address, I will send you my mailing address.

Harley,

I have never thinned any bars since the chains are always wider than the bar. I have noticed many different thicknesses of the bars that I have. The Cannon bar that I modified for my Poulan 655 is the thinnest one that I have.

On a racing saw, there are several other things to consider. Of course, the chain is the main component. The other is the bar. Using a “belly” bar is definitely an advantage in bar lengths over 20”. A belly bar allows the user to run a loser chain tension which allows the most h.p. to be used in the actual removal of the wood. The longer the bar, the more benefit is derived for this application. The drawback is, of course, the cost of having a custom made bar for several different lengths required for a wide range of log sizes that are used throughout the many different areas. A custom made bar costs around $400 if the ends are hard-faced and a roller tip is installed. Especially here in California and in the northwest, the log sizes vary so much since there is no controlling authority in power. For instance, you might arrive at a show and be facing a log of 32” in diameter. Then at the next show, the log might be 24” in diameter. That means you better be prepared with an assortment of chains and bars to fit all these situations. Then every once in a while, they will put in a boring cut, so you need a narrower bar with a smaller roller tip to be in contention. As I’ve said before, you need the combination of a good saw and a good chain to win, but you also need the correct bar as well.

I made a “1/2 belly bar” out of a 36” Cannon bar into one that is 26”. This bar is for my modified 655 Poulan B.P. I just finished the cylinder work (according to Ken’s specifications) on this saw which is in the 6 cubic inch category.

Since the bar was only 4 ¼” wide, I only modified the bottom edge of the bar. I then put in the groove with my “Barshop” tool. I hard-faced the ends of the bar and installed a Remington roller. In my opinion, this bar will actually allow a chain to be activated into the cutting mode better. This is because it has more slack afforded while the chain remains in the groove at the bottom, probably even better, to a slight degree, than the full belly bar.

To illustrate this, I will submit two pictures. The first one shows the saw upright with the proper tension set. Then without any change in the tension, the saw is upside down. You can clearly see that the chain is hanging down out of the groove and would be unacceptable to be run in that way on a standard bar.

I always welcome questions and opinions for discussion that would help others to understand the subject more fully.

Art Martin

 

[Art Martin]

Here is the upside down view with the same chain tension.

Art Martin

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Curious about two things: What's a "barshop" tool, and where do you get the roller tips?

 

[Harley]

Art;

I'd like to know if you sharpen your chains any different if you know that they are going to be cutting bark. Also, do you generally file the same angles no matter what species of wood is to be cut?

Thanks.

 

[Art Martin]

Mike Maas,

The Barshop machine is designed to make and repair chainsaw bars. The Barshop machine regrooves, squares the rails and closes the groove to standard size. You can actually make a chainsaw bar out of old, obsolete chainsaw bars. Both ends of the bar can be duplicated with this machine.

This machine is sold by Specialty Motors Mfg., Longview, Washington 1-800-426-8644.

As far as where to get the roller tips, you just have to ask around and you really can find some.

Art Martin

 

[Art Martin]

Harley,

Competition logs are always debarked, if that is what you are referring to. Also, cants are bark free. I usually have the angle of the outside top plate at 32°.

When I worked in the woods, the bark on some of the large Redwood trees was sometimes up to one foot thick, stringy and fibrous. During the summer months, when the tree was felled, the bark would “slip” because of the sap between the bark and the of the cambium layer. This created problems of binding the saw and usually had to be chopped out with an axe.

Art Martin

 

[JimL]

Id like to see some pictures of this Barshop tool, what all does/can it do?